How does the Beretta Laramie hold up?

[Bigdooger]

Excellent Beretta Warranty Service

This is a follow-up to my earlier post.

Beretta sent me an entirely new .38 Special 6.5" Nickel Laramie Revolver.

This revolver is truly a sight... and is everything my other one wasn't.

The cylinder is in perfect time, and locks up solid.

The finish is mirror with no machine marks.

The bore is also a mirror.

Trigger pull is light and crisp.

Hats off to the excellent people at Beretta who stood behind their product. I had my new revolver in hand 14 days after sending it in! Bravo!


-- On a side note, this one shoots high like the other one. The new rear sight blade I made has point of aim right where I want it.

 

[buttrap]

If the trurning cylinder deal drives you nuts just pull the hammer back slowly and stop at the first click.That will engage the hammer block with the cylinder bolt still up and locked. Its a pain to do but if carefull you can stop just before the sear engages and the bolt pops down.

 

[mlundertaker]

beretta laramie

i just got a laramie and it had a stampede manuel in the box so i need to know how to remove cyl and what does the big screw on top do

 

[don95sml]

StefArms said:

The Laramie also has a windage adjustable rear sight which none of the other replicas have. The more I shoot it the better it gets. The top-break design requires lighter loads than a solid frame gun if you what it last. As much as I like it, I getting ready to trade it in, on a .38 Laramie with a 5" barrel. The long barreled gun looks better, but is just too nose heavy.

Before hearing about the Laramie I purchased a Uberti Schofield, Wells Fargo model, .38 Special, with 5" barrel. Shooting this at 15 yards, I discovered my pattern was about 4" to the left and 4" high from point of aim. I sure would have appreciated the windage adjustable sights of the Laramie, but some material would have to be removed from the top of the front sight if the Laramie shoots the same as my Uberti. I do like the 5" barrel, since I had looked at a Navy Arms 7-1/2" version that I also found too nose heavy.

 

[mrwiggins]

i handled a beretta laramie today

the ones at the gun shop were blued, i would rather nickle or stainless myself. i liked the gun overall, the balance felt nice to me, and i found it easy to find the sites. i can't wait to fire one. i pan to start shooting sass soon if i can, and i'm liking this revolver.

 

[Cincinnati Chas]

I'm thinking about buying a Beretta Bisley with nickel finish.

Noticed the comments about nickel finish problems with the Beretta cowboy style guns (made by Uberti subsidiary).

Does anyone have more experiences to share regarding finish or action/mechanical problems with new in 2007 or 2008 Beretta sixguns?

Or going the other way, anyone with positive experiences with beautifully finished Beretta old west sixguns also made in 2007 or 08?

Hate to buy a gun with problems right out of the box!

Thanks

 

[Bigdooger]

RE; Mlundertaker question.

The new manual from Beretta which features the Laramie instead of the Stampede STILL doesn't mention removing the cylinder. I had to learn myself. Here's what I found;

First, I wipe off a patch of the cylinder so that the metal is clean and free of oils. Right where a flute is is best because there is less metal. I then place a piece of scotch tape along the side of the cylinder and fold a 1/4" extra over the edge where the chambers are located.

Then I loosen the top screw and remove it. Use as wide a screwdriver as possible (I had to hone one down until it was thin enough) Remove the screw. Turn the cylinder so that the scotch tape is under the metal tab once secured by the screw. Now, since your gun is new, you might need to gently ease a screwdriver between the tab and cylinder and GENTLY lever the tab back slightly. It doesn't have to move far... hardly at all.

You can now slide the cylinder back. The tape ensures the tab won't scratch the cylinder wall when sliding it back and out. (Found that out the hard way)

I am surprised that Beretta doesn't feature any take-down info in their manual concerning the cylinder removal. Mine gets so fouled so fast it is absolutely necessary to remove it and clean.

About reassembly; Again since your revolver is new, it might take a couple attempts to get that tab properly lined up so that the screw is perfectly centered in its place. Be SURE to have it properly centered or the edges of the screw (Knurled) will rub against the metal around it and remove the delicate fire bluing. Tighten screw. (Check after a few shots to make sure it is still tight)

Hope this helps.

 

[redleg0811]

"When the hammer is put on "half-cock" as is recommended by the manufacturer for safety, the cylinder is free to rotate. Whenever I set it on the shooting table the cylinder rotates as the handle settles to the table surface. For some reasoon it always disconcerts me to watch it happen. When you then pick it up... or when you remove it from a holster the cylinder can be in any position. It is so strange to look at a revolver with the chambers not lined up to the barrel. Of course all this is corrected when you fully cock it. No matter where it started, the action smoothly puts the cylinder in the proper place. When you fire less than a full cylinder though, I recommend leaving the hammer all the way down so there is no chance of the next live round being skipped."

I have a real NM3 Russian that will do this also.

I am looking at buying a Laramie and was wondering what people are seeing for Prices on the Nickel 38 and 45?

Thanks
Martin