HOW does the RCBS lock out die work?

[Luggernut]

I've got the RCBS Powder Cop die and the principle of this is simple. I can't understand how the Lock Out dies work though. How does a die stop to press? FWIW I have a Hornady LNL Progressive.

 

[realbuffdriver]

There are two basic parts to the die. One is a "foot" that is adjustable in length and checks how full the case is with powder. If the powder level is proper, the second part of the die, which is a spring loaded plunger that contacts the case mouth, allows the case mouth to enter the die. If the level of powder is too low or too high, the spring loaded plunger freezes and the case mouth cannot enter the die. This stops the press.

If properly adjusted, the lockout die does a superb job of catching squib or double loads.

Cheers,

RealBuffDriver

 

[moredes]

Right on the dot. I've got an LNL AP w/ the RCBS Lockout Die and it works like a champ--lock it into the press and forget about it. When the press stops, it's found a squib or double charge.

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

Agreed. When they need attention (cleaning) they let you know.

I've reloaded over 25,000 rounds and never a squib or overload. The RCBS lockout die is a required part of my setup.

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

A superb safety device, the RCBS lockout die. Cheaper than the Dillon buzzer and more effective than the Hornady die, since it actually stops the press.

 

[Luggernut]

OK, I get it. Thanks guys!

 

[Empyrean]

I am resurrecting this thread because I'm having a little difficulty getting one set-up (actually bought four!). I read the instructions and it does not seem to be operating correctly. I had it working for a 20-40 rounds but then it started getting finicky. Can anyone provide any advice? I was going to call RCBS on Thursday but work was really busy. I'd like to try to get it adjust this weekend if possible.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. The one question I had was that they say to keep the die 1/4" from the shell plate. Do them mean the lowest portion of the shellplate where the case rim groove is?

Thanks,
AJ

 

[Car Knocker]

Top of the shellplate, I believe.

Did you clean the die out well before using? Mine got goobered up with powder grains and would tend to get stuck in an "up" position. I flushed it out with brake cleaner and that did the trick.

 

[Empyrean]

No, I think in the instructions it said not to disassemble.

 

[Car Knocker]

It's not necessary to disassemble it, although I did with mine. But then, I may have greater mechanical aptitude, and curiosity, than some folks - annoys my wife to no end. Brake cleaner, or Breakfree if you prefer, comes in a pressurized can and is sprayed liberally into the die until it runs out, carrying the oils with it. It evaporates very quickly and doesn't leave a residue, but it does remove all oils. Use eye protection with spray products.

 

[Empyrean]

Yeah, I'll open it up and clean it. Maybe that will improve my results.

 

[Car Knocker]

Watch out for the itty bitty ball bearing in there.

 

[Gasitman]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but does the lock out die work on rifle and pistol?

 

[dmazur]

The RCBS instructions say "The RCBS Lock-Out Die is for use with pistol calibers (9mm and larger) on progressive reloading presses."

Here's a link to a .pdf file of the instructions.

http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/LockOutDie_Instructions.pdf

I don't have a concern with bottleneck (rifle) reloading because the powder measure has a "fail safe" return rod. If the press main shaft (ram) cycles, it's going to throw a charge and return completely. So I don't worry about zero charge loads, or erratic charges.

If I pull the handle twice (which I haven't done, yet), the double charge will overflow all over the press. There just isn't room for 100gr of powder in a .30-06 case...

So far, I like having separate seat & crimp dies more than I feel the need for a lockout die. However, if I had a LNL (or other 5 station press), then a lockout die makes sense, rather than having an empty station...

 

[Peter M. Eick]

I suggest you buy two.

I keep one witht he big foot and one with the small foot on it. That way you don't bugger the fit ripping them on and off. I use mine all the time unless the powder will spill on a double charge.

 

[Gasitman]

The RCBS instructions say "The RCBS Lock-Out Die is for use with pistol calibers (9mm and larger) on progressive reloading presses."

Here's a link to a .pdf file of the instructions.

http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/LockOutDie_Instructions.pdf

I don't have a concern with bottleneck (rifle) reloading because the powder measure has a "fail safe" return rod. If the press main shaft (ram) cycles, it's going to throw a charge and return completely. So I don't worry about zero charge loads, or erratic charges.

If I pull the handle twice (which I haven't done, yet), the double charge will overflow all over the press. There just isn't room for 100gr of powder in a .30-06 case...

So far, I like having separate seat & crimp dies more than I feel the need for a lockout die. However, if I had a LNL (or other 5 station press), then a lockout die makes sense, rather than having an empty station...

I found this to be true when I was loading some .223 I was like, ***??? Turned out the press did not index for some reason. I looked around and there was a primer stuck under the shell plate. It had become loose for some reason.

I think I am going to order one of these, thanks for the info.

 

[UltimateReloader]

I'm going to post some additional info on this later, but this should serve as a good explaination with diagrams, etc:
RCBS Lock-Out Die Part I: Theory of Operation