How does this setup sound to get started?

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rono

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I have a good bit of Cabelas bucks that need spent before the end of the month. I thought I'd start into reloading. Here's the list so far:
Lee Deluxe Turret Press Kit with 4 hole turret
Extra 4 hole turret
Lee Carbide 4 die set for 45acp
Lee Carbide 4 die set for 9mm
ABC's of Reloading
Lee Modern Reloading
Lyman Manual
Speer Manual


I figure I'll wait for powder, primers and lead until I read the manuals. Already have a tumbler and cleaned a good bit of brass.

Anything else that would help?

Ron
 
I guess the Kit comes with a scale?

The first thing I suggest for all is a stuck case remover. A caliper is also very handy.........Creeker
 
Yea, it has a small scale. Good idea on the stuck case remover.

I'm right outside of Wheeling.
 
If you are going to buy a Lee turret press you might want to look at the Classic Turret Press. It is cast iron instead of cast aluminum. Also the safety prime for large and small primers. It works well with the classic turret press.
Parkersburg
Rusty
 
I am not a fan of turret presses including the RCBS 2000 or the Dillon 550! If you are starting out I recommend a good single stage press to learn the basics, you don't need too much contend with while reloading while you are learning. If you end up loading a lot ( 500-1,00 rounds a month) move to one of the three progressive presses. I started out on a RCBS Jr, and migrated to a Rock Chucker that I have used for over twenty years and I still use it next to my progressive to work up loads or load low volume cartridges like my 30-06 and 44 mag.
 
I respectfully disagree about the turret press. I bought an RCBS turret when I recently started and it has been a big convenience to be able to go back to a previous die for a case adjustment - not even counting the time savings from not having to screw dies in and out between steps. Plus, it's just plain fun to feel and hear the turret snapping into place for each new die.

Don't forget a bullet-puller.
 
I didn't mean to imply there was anything wrong with turret presses, but I do believe that they can ingrain bad habits in a newbie. I believe all new to reloading should load 20 or 50 round blocks in stages instead of trying to one round from start to finish:

  1. Clean
  2. Inspect
  3. Deprime and Resize
  4. Clean, Including Primer Pocket
  5. Measure and Trim
  6. Prime
  7. Charge
  8. Seat
  9. Crimp

Sorry but I am old school when it comes to reloading and still load in blocks on my Rock Chucker. Even on my progressive I do the first five steps on all my brass regardless of caliber before I even start loading. When I do load on hate progressive I install a universal decapping die just to ensure the primer pockets are clear.

I just don't want to see anyone get hurt, there are many loads out there where it is very possible to drop a double charge and not even be able to visually be able to notice the difference in the case.
 
Not sure I'd trust the Lee scale, but I don't own one so can't say. I need to replace my aging RCBS scale, though. The Lee is pretty cheap. If it's accurate, I reckon it's fine. I just don't know anyone that has one to tell me how accurate it is.

Anyway, I want an electronic. They're getting affordable.
 
The aluminum frame presses are fine for pistol or .223 reloading...but the cast iron framed presses are advisable if you want to full-length resize rifle cases. Your list is fine for pistol reloading...I haven't found it necessary to trim pistol cases. Even so, you should probably add a powder funnel and a vernier caliper to check case lengths after resizing and loaded cartridge lengths.

But, if you start reloading rifle cases...even .223!...you will need to add a case trimmer with a pilot (fits inside the case mouth) for each caliber you load, and a case mouth deburring tool. I've found that most fired rifle cases need trimming and deburring...if you don't trim, you wind up with a much wider variation in firing pressures.

If you want to be both accurate and consistent over time, you should also add a set of scale calibration weights for your beam scale. This is simply a series of true weights close to commonly used target weights...e.g.,near 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, 20 grain. The commercial sets from RCBS tend to be a bit expensive, and a good alternative is to have a friend with a calibrated scale prepare you a set using cut aluminum nails or pieces of plastic. (And, if you stick to load pressures will below the maximums, this isn't important for casual shooting.)
 
I bought the cheap Lee scale when I bought my classic turret. Not to long after I bought a digital scale and was surprised to find that the cheap Lee scale is very accurate. Rono, you will also want to buy a caliper to check OAL on the loads you are making. I have never used the aluminum press but have talked to people that have used them for years and haven't had any problems. Just make sure you buy the four hole so you can use a FCD.
Rusty
 
Ron,

Go ahead and pick up a few components for one of your calibers, preferably the 9mm (i.e. some 115gr bullets and 100 small pistol primers). Get a lb of powder, like Unique, where a max load really fills up the case so you don't have to worry about a double charge. Then go ahead and start to play when you get your toys. You can learn by doing, safely, and get to enjoy the fruits of your labors.

In woodworking the saying is measure twice, cut once. The same thing applies to reloading.

Idano said:
I am not a fan of turret presses including the RCBS 2000 or the Dillon 550! If you are starting out I recommend a good single stage press to learn the basics, you don't need too much contend with while reloading while you are learning.

I learned on a 550, as have plenty of other people. Heck, the only thing Dillion has heard out of me since I got it was an order or two for more goodies. That statement may ring true with a few people, but there are plenty of others who will be just fine learning on a high end reloader.

Idano said:
I just don't want to see anyone get hurt, there are many loads out there where it is very possible to drop a double charge and not even be able to visually be able to notice the difference in the case.
Agree 100%.
 
The chance of getting a double charge on a single stage press is easily avoided. Just adopt the practice of turning your primed case upside down immediately before putting in the powder...gives you an extra chance to inspect the primer seating as well as avoiding a double charge.;)
 
Thanks to everyone for all the info. I would probably buy a single press or a cast iron turret for my larger rife cartridges once I get the hang of this. For now, I think I will only do 9mm and 45acp. Then move on to the 223 for my AR.

The Lee Deluxe Turret kit comes with the following: In addition to the Turret Press and Auto Disk Powder Measure; the kit includes the Lee Safety Scale, unmatched for sensitivity, a primer pocket cleaner, cutter and lockstud to trim the cases and a chamfer tool to deburr cases after trimming.


Ron
 
The chance of getting a double charge on a single stage press is easily avoided. Just adopt the practice of turning your primed case upside down immediately before putting in the powder...gives you an extra chance to inspect the primer seating as well as avoiding a double charge.;)

TooTaxed that one of the best pieces of advice I a have heard. Outstanding recomendation!
 
rono,

If you haven't done it, you might want to check the sticky for new reloaders a the top of the page. Lists a bunch of items that can be really useful and it will save you some money as well.

As far as the Lee Turret kit goes, it's not a bad kit and not a bad press, but like most kits, sells you things you may not need or things of merely "adequate usefulness" if that makes sense. To get a satisfactory amount of speed from the Lee turret presses, you need to purchase a safety prime. Second, the kits come with the lower end Lee Auto Disk powder measure, that while accurate, is not nearly as good a powder measure as their Lee Pro Auto Disk.

Third, the powder scale, while quite accurate, is light and really touchy.
A buddy of mine, a huge fan of Lee products has one and ended up replacing it with an "oil-dampened" scale, which the Lee is not. This "calms" the extreme sensitivity of a beam scale down a good bit and makes using the scale much less aggravating to use.

Finally, for not a whole lot of money more, the Lee Classic Turret, with a safety prime and an Pro Auto Disk powder measure, is a really fine piece of kit. It is a four-holer, so it allows the Lee FCD to be mounted, has the square advancing rod which appears to address some durability problems. Is cast iron and steel, has compound linkage and adjustability of the pull handle, so it's able to handle most anything you want to throw at it. It's generally a good bit better press than it's aluminum framed cousin It can also be used as a single stage simply by defeating the auto advance mechanism and it works well in that arena.

Idano,

The Lee Classic Turret press isn't like most low end turrets. It has auto advance, so the powder measure is moved away from the cartidge and this helps prevent double charges. The turret with brass does rotate, so a someone new is only dealing with one case at a time, but the auto rotation can be shut off, so they can also start out using it as a single stage. It doesn't have the typical "turret tilt" of many of the classic turrets.

So on the one hand, it's simpler to use (and for someone new to keep up with) than a Dillon 550 or RCBS Pro 2000, but much, much faster than single stage press. This keeps the frustration level lower for those who are new at reloading. I started out on a single stage and quickly learned I didn't have that much time to spend reloading my cartrdges. If I had been forced to continue using just a single stage and didn't have the progressive option, my days of reloading would have ended right there.

The Lee Classic Turret is a good option (excellent price for quality balance) for someone new to the game who wants good quality equipment, but doesn't have or doesn't want to spend tons of money to try out reloading. I wish it had been available when I bought much of the reloading equipment I have now. It's "fast enough," and quite durable. Caliber changeovers are a set of dies and a 10 dollar turret. Quite a deal.

Regards,

Dave
 
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Rono,
I thought I would post this as an example so you could see the price difference between the kit and buying the Classic press with all the trimmings. This is the setup I just bought a couple of months ago and it is an awesome setup in my opinion. I hope this helps.
Rusty

Lee Auto Disk Powder Measure Riser.
Lee Adjustable Charge Bar Auto Disk.
Lee Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure.
Lee Safety Prime Small and Large Primer Feeder.
Lee Classic Four Hole Turret Press.
Lee Deluxe Handgun Four Die Set 9mm Luger.
Lee Safety Magnetic Scale. ( will upgrade as needed )
Total was $207 including shipping.

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I'd definitely get the Lee Classic Turret Press instead of the older Deluxe Turret kit. You may not feel that you need the larger rifle capacity now, but for me, the big advantages of the Classic Turret are the much improved Lee Safety Prime System and the smoother and more durable auto indexing.

http://www.realguns.com/archives/122.htm

The Lee Safety Scale is very accurate and precise, but very slow to use. When developing loads, I use the scale a lot. Buy a digital scale on eBay for $22 delivered. Get one that reads to .1 grain resolution. Ive tried three different eBay scales and like the Neva brand the best. Calibrate it often, and I'd also record the mass of a couple of test objects around 10 and 100 grains, to make sure it's accurate in the range you'll use the most.

Modern Reloading Second Edition by Richard Lee is a very good intro to reloading, with some topics like lead bullet casting covered in very interesting detail. It's very readable because it's like Richard Lee is chatting with you about reloading, explaining with examples from his reloading experiences. The comprehensive reloading data in the back of the large book is more than worth the price, which i usually $12 at MidwayUSA.com. The book plugs Lee products a lot, but I can forgive him this one conceit. What's he gonna do, use RCBS products to explain reloading concepts?

The Lee dies are an excellent buy - very high quality and very low price. Clean out the manufacturing gunk before using them, including a metal chip or two, but mostly grit from where the dies were ground and polished. There is also some preservative oil that should be cleaned out, especially in the powder charging die. The cleaning step isn't in the die setup sheet.

I highly recommend using the Lee Factory Crimp Die (pistol or rifle) in the last reloading stage. The only exception would be benchrest shooting where you'd probably want a collet crimp die for minimal runout. The use of the Factory Crimp Die pretty much necessitates a four hole turret instead of a three holer. It's one extra pull of the handle for a turret press, but worth it for the reliability and quality assurance it provides for reloaded ammo.

Caution: Reloading can become addictive. You may find yourself spending money on an entirely new hobby/obsession.
 
The Lee Safety Scale is very accurate and precise, but very slow to use. When developing loads, I use the scale a lot. Buy a digital scale on eBay for $22 delivered. Get one that reads to .1 grain resolution. Ive tried three different eBay scales and like the Neva brand the best. Calibrate it often, and I'd also record the mass of a couple of test objects around 10 and 100 grains, to make sure it's accurate in the range you'll use the most.

Thanks for the info. I've often wondered about the Lee scale. I'll check espray out!
 
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