How hard is installing an LPK?

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+1 on wearing safety glasses.

Another helpful hint is to do the spring/detent assembly with the lower in a gallon size ziplock bag. This should capture the flying parts should you have an oops.

I did this with a cleaner bag. I located myself on the floor of a small bathroom in my house for the first couple I built, figuring they couldn't fly to far and with hard tile floors I could hear it bounce around.

Russellc
 
Running a drill through the pin holes runs the risk of enlarging the holes too much and removing the Anodizing and exposing the softer aluminum underneath. The Anodizing is important as it hardens the surface and keeps the holes from wallowing out from wear.
Couldn't a hole be "checked" and not enlarged, by inserting the smooth (non-cutting) end of a drill bit of the proper size into it? Also, I can't see how there would be the problem of enlarging the hole if a drill of the proper size is slowly and carefully turned. I mean if a hole has a small burr, which is worse: removing it with a drill bit, or removing it as the pin is pressed in? Either way, anodizing gets removed because the hole had a defect. Please tell me if I'm not thinking correctly on this.
 
That was how I determined the channel was undersized.

Detent would not drop in even when pushed on with a punch. (Use a hammer?)

The first rule in gunsmithing is modify the cheapest and easiest replaceable part so I smoothed the exterior of the detent pin with wet fine grit sandpaper. It still would not fit even when pushed on. (Just use a bigger hammer right?)

Pounding the detent pin through the channel is not the correct solution. The detent pin and spring have to able to move up and down slightly to disengage the slot in the safety for it to turn.

As I have other unused stripped lowers I verified the size of the channel using the smooth end of drill bit.

First I tried a undersize drill bit hoping to catch the offending material. No luck.

Courage, a couple of drops of oil and ran a the proper size drill bit slowly through the channel.

Obviously doing so removed some (most or all?) of the anodizing that was in the channel. So be it. I had a lower that was not usable. The channel for the safety detent spring and pin does not have direct contact wear points like the holes in the frame for the trigger, hammer pins and safety. Plus they are captured parts they are not going to fly off leaving the safety inoperable.

The result is the safety works smoothly and locks positively. If several 10's of thousands rounds from now the safety starts not to stay engaged when switched on or off I will replace the frame. In the meantime I have a fully functional safe gun to shoot and enjoy.
 
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I had no trouble with my first one.

I had a Youtube Video going and was following it. The biggest help however was the fact that I had an experienced person standing over my shoulder guiding me through it as well. Fallout mike here on THR has done quite a few of them and he gave me pointers and made sure I didn't screw anything up.
 
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