How important is a tumbler

[Picknlittle]

I'm new to handloading and as of now I'm dealing with new 35 Whelen brass olny. I will be reloading 30-06 and probably 30-30. My 30-06 brass is recently fired and still pretty clean, the 30-30 is old nasty lookin stuff.

Is a tumbler necessary for the small, low volume bench? Is there a solvent or soap and hot water solution that breaks the fouling down for an easy clean?

 

[scrat]

some people do actually use soap and water. I cant really say its necessary. its kinda like how you treat your gun.


i saw this man at the shooting range the other day. an older guy late 60-70. his brass almost looked brown. told me how he never cleaned his brass just shoots them and reloads them. Same time he was complaining on how he cant hit anything anymore. when he was done he packed up and left.


My brass is clean inside and out. pocket primers are clean like new. my guns are clean and oiled just enough. i take pride in the way i load making sure the right measurements are made. I take time in my shooting to get the best groupings. When im done shooting i take out my cleaning pack. i go throught my gun barrel with about 5 patches and one brissle brush. final patches are normally dry. If they come out clean i run a patch with a very light film of oil on it. Then i pack it up and go home. At home i clean some more. then repeat.


so it just depends on you.

 

[Walkalong]

It is not critical, but it is very much a need to have item.

 

[TEDDY]

tumbler

it's like taking a bath.do you want to look like a bum. same with brass its nice to have clean brass.Harbor tool has a vibrator (blue)for $29/39.or you could get brass cleaner(liquid).:banghead:

 

[USSR]

Picknlittle,

Good dies ain't cheap. Dirty brass can damage dies. Enough said.

Don

 

[Picknlittle]

Teddy and USSR,
You're both getting to the meat of what I'm asking. I would think that clean brass is probably much easier to size and load. It's gotta be easier on the firearm as well. But is there a kitchen sink alternative to another of equipment that I have no place to store. I have no desire to spend hours scrubbing brass, but if there is a strong detergent or household safe solvent that will do an adequate job on a budget, I'd like to hear about it.

I'm not really cheap,...just mostly broke

 

[CMcDermott]

Birchwood-Casey and Iosso both make a liquid cleaning system for your brass, not just soap they both contain various weak acids to help clean the gunk off the cases. I tried the Iosso system, it's a mesh bag that you put the brass in, then repeatedly dunk etc in a bucket containing the cleaning solution. It didn't work very well for me; I'm sticking with my vibratory cleaner for now. I would like to at least try a tumbler, and the ultrasonic cleaners also look interesting.

The really cheap way to clean brass is with a brush in the sink. You won't be able to take off all the powder residue, but you will be able to remove the grit etc that can harm your dies. A short soak in vinegar first will help clean up the brass. The brass won't come out shiny and new looking, but you can reload it without scratching your dies.

 

[Hazzard]

Is a tumbler absolutely necessary? I reloaded for years by hand cleaning my brass, so I would vote no. Just make sure that the brass is clean so you do not damage your dies.
However, when I started to reload a lot of pistol cartridges, I bought a tumbler to save time and I will state emphatically that I will never go back to hand cleaning brass for any reason. It is so much easier to toss them in, turn it on, and come back later to your nice shiney cases.

 

[agd1953]

It give you pride in your finished product

 

[Sunray]

There is a product you mix with water that cleans brass nicely. It's from Birchwood-Casey. http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html
Product # 33845 -CCI
It takes a bit more time, but that's not a big deal. Use a plastic pail and put the cleaned brass on a cookie sheet then into your oven, set on warm, for about 15 minutes. Dries the cases faster.
Do not use anything with ammonia in it to soak brass. Ammonia eats brass.

 

[SSN Vet]

I didn't include a tumbler in my origonal set up...but after just a few weeks I ordered one.

It's SO easy and since I've now taken to scrounging brass, I like to toss it all in the tumbler and sort/inspect it after it's clean.

Whatever you do, just make sure you make provisions to avoid lead exposure.

Here's some "home brew" recipes for chemical cleaning I pulled off the web.

I haven't used any of them so can't speak for results......

In the long run, I'm not sure chemical cleaning, even with home brew won't wind up costing you more...

-----------------------------------------

Chemical Case Cleaning Solutions

While tumbling cases in an abrasive media provides the best finish, extremely dirty cases can be decapped first (using a non-sizing die) and then washed in one of the following solutions. The final rinse in soapy water helps prevent tarnishing. All of these methods were approved by Frankford Arsenal and will not weaken your brass.
• A 5 percent solution of citric acid (available from your drugstore) and warm water for about 10 minutes. If your water is very hard increase the amount of citric acid. You can add some Dawn™ or Cascade™ dishwasher liquid soap (which does not contain ammonia--be careful some do), to the solution for extra grease cutting ability. Follow with a rinse in hot soapy water (Ivory™ works well) and allow to dry.
• A solution of 1 quart of white vinegar and 2 tablespoons of salt. Soak with some agitation for 15 to 20 minutes and follow with a rinse of soapy hot water and allow to dry.
• A solution of 1 quart of water, 1 cup white vinegar, 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1/4 cup laundry or dishwashing detergent, 1/8 cup salt. Soak with some agitation for 15 to 20 minutes and follow with a rinse of soapy hot water and allow to dry. This may leave brass with a slight pinkish cast which will disappear with a short tumble in media.
• Military arsenals use a heated 4 percent sulfuric acid dip with a little potassium dichromate added. The solution is heated until bubbles rise slowly without it boiling and the cases are dipped into it for 4 -5 minutes using a basket of copper screening or plastic. A final rinse using plain hot water is followed by hot water with Ivory™ soap in it and the cases are left to drain and dry. Because of the use of heated sulfuric acid this method is probably impractical for home use but is given here to show what can be safely used.
Cases which have been fired several times and which show signs of carbon build up internally can be rinsed in straight paint & varnish makers (P&VM) naphtha available at any paint store. Decap, soak for 5 - 10 minutes, drain, allow to air dry and then tumble as usual. Cases will be sparkling clean inside and out but not any shinier.

 

[Charshooter]

I would gfollow the above post on those dirty 30-30 brass. A good tumbler from midway has worked well for me and at the time, I found it about the cheapest. I tumble any shot brass, this keeps it clean and then you don't need to do anything else. The new brass is ready to load as is.

 

[billp]

I wouldn't waste my money

Clean brass may make a difference.

Shiny brass probably doesn't make a difference.

A rag to wipe off brass before reloading maybe all that is required?

Senior citizen suggestion.

 

[Picknlittle]

Thanks for all the info, especially the cleaning solution recipes. In time I'm sure I'll want a tumbler, but I'm not there yet.

 

[bakert]

billp>
"A rag to wipe off brass before reloading maybe all that is required?"

That's what I did for years and still do a lot of the time. I have two tumblers now but use them only occasionally. Wipe the cases off with a rough towel and load 'em. Nary a problem. A tumbler is nice but not a real necessity.

 

[silverlance]

Hi guys

I'm TOTALLY new to reloading and I am working on handloading. I mean really, by hand. With a hammer and a coupula dies.

I'm only going to do this with my 7.62x54R because well, it's pretty much all I shoot these days and I'm a big nagant head.

I spent last night (my first time) popping out all the primers in my brass. boy its tons of fun! I felt like a real reloader for a minute...

until ir ealized that I have neither primers bullets or powder.

well I've ordered the stuff, but until it gets here I'm going to clean the cases.

Can I use CLP on the cases if I wipe it off real well? Or maybe powder blast? I dimly remember hearing somewhere that CLP can be very dangerous if applied to ammo, but I don't remember the details.

 

[heypete]

Can I use CLP on the cases if I wipe it off real well? Or maybe powder blast? I dimly remember hearing somewhere that CLP can be very dangerous if applied to ammo, but I don't remember the details.

The general rule is to avoid petroleum-based products (such as oils) on ammunition, as it can affect the powder and/or primers in an unpredictable way.

As such, I would avoid using CLP or other oil-based products when cleaning cases.

 

[reppondj]

I agree with Billp above.......shiney brass looks good but it just dont matter.....clean brass however, matters not only to your firearm but to your press as well. Thats just my 2 pennies worth.

 

[silverlance]

hm. I really don't want to buy a tumbler as I only plan to reload about 10 rounds a week. I guess I'll try the old rag and dishwater trick.

By the way, are lubes really necessary? This will be for an m39 bolt gun.

 

[Idano]

silverlance,

I am assuming when say lubes you are referring to case lube? If so the answer is yes, otherwise, your case will stick in your resizer die. I have to agree if you are going to really reload only 10 rounds a week I wouldn't bother with a tumbler either. However, most people that reload start shooting more and if you fall into that category in the near future I highly recommend buying a tumbler. Contrary to what some say shiny brass is the next level of cleanliness. Shiny case has less feed friction then a tarnished case. I didn't originally start out tumbling brass, the first twenty years I just wiped it clean, but now I won't load a round that isn't clean and shiny.

 

[silverlance]

thank you, Idaho!

I plan to buy a tumbler after I buy my house. as for right now i'm renting. that's why i'm reloading with a die and a nylon hammer; no room for the dillon press that i want.

maybe i'll still buy a tumbler - who knows, just stick it under a table somwhere.

what kidn of case lube woudl you recommend, and how do you apply it?

 

[ranger335v]

Silver, as stated above a tumbler is "nice" but far from neccessary. We been reloading since the dawn of the metallic cartridge but tumbling only started in the late 70s, IIRC. They are REAL NICE tho, they make such purty ammo!

The simplist brass cleaner is white vingar. You can add a half teaspoon of table salt to a quart or so but that isn't really neccessary. Soak the brass a couple of hours, rinse and let it dry good.

If you really want to buy a branded case sizing lube they all work good. On the other hand I've found that Kiwi "Mink Oil" for boots does as well as the best commercial type, that being "Imperial Die Wax", IMHO. Mink oil is really a soft wax marketed for treating leather boots and you can get it cheap in WalMarts shoe department.

The "best" case lube mostly depends on how you want to apply it, by rolling over a lube pad, spraying it or applying it with fingers. I like the last way and that is the only way to apply the waxes. Just dab your finger tips to the wax and rub a thin coat of the wax over the entire case immediatly before resizing. BE SURE to coat the lower part completly (the web area around the head) to prevent stuck cases! The mid-body and neck aren't nearly so critical to get lubed as the thicker web area.

 

[billp]

tumbling and energy

Wiping off cases, then reloading seems to work well for last 40 years.

While shiny cases may look good, how about all of the electrical energy WASTED [I think?] maybe?

We may be entering a new period of decreasing energy resources?

I don't know about this.

But a thought.

 

[Tom609]

...and if you throw one of those fabric softener sheets in the tumbler, not only will your brass look good, it'll smell springtime fresh

 

[Idano]

silverlance,

I have been using Hornady 1-shot case lube. I lay the brass out on an old cookie sheet and spray them then roll them 180 degrees and spray them again. Spray lube is definitely easier then the using your fingers or a lube pad.

However, this weekend I am going to try a homemade spray lube that consists of 1 part liquid lanolin and 4 parts 99% isopropyl alcohol. It feels, looks, and smells exactly like the Hornady 1-shot so I am interested to see how it works. If works like I thinks it will, exactly like the the Hornady 1-shot, then I have made 20 ounces for the cost of 6 ounces and what is nice is that I will always have it available.