How long to air dry a walnut stock and forend

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Took the 870 out to the range today.

Probably the most fun i've ever had shooting.

Sent some Remington #6 birdshot down range, along with Remington slugger reduced recoil, Remington slugger high velocity, and my defense load: Hornady critical defense 00 buckshot. Tested out my Four Sevens Maelstrom MMX and new Limbsaver recoil pad in the process. Awesome.

The only downside is we got absolutely poured on in the rain.

I've got the 870 stripped in the garage down to the trigger group. I've got the stock off and the forend seperated from the metal as well. Both are slightly wet, especially the inside of the walnut forend and the area around the stock bearing plate on the walnut stock.

How long does the wood need to dry and set before re-assembly? Any tips here or things to watch out for? I'm relying on your experience.

Thanks,

T
 
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Once it is thoroughly dry, you might want to use some form of poly finish to make it waterproof after you fill in the pores

To aid drying you might try using a fan and running it until theropod is dry. How long will depend on how bad it got soaked
 
Couple of things....

I wouldn't leave them in an unheated garage.

I would put them inside the house...in a room with a decent average temperature / make sure air is circulating around them real well - but I don't use a fan ( I just don't lay them on a towel or anything )....stand them up / prop them up - whatever....

I dry - and then clean the metal portions of the gun too( fully strip the gun / take out the trigger group, etc ). I spray some light oil all over the metal parts -then wipe it down ....and set the metal parts out with the stock ...make sure there is no moisture hidden anywhere as well.

I will usually let them sit for 2 or 3 days...inside my shop, in my home - after I've been drenched like that.

After I remove the wood stock and forend ...I wipe them down as best I can ..and when they're dry ( they probably have varnish on them ) ...just inspect the finish ...if its cloudy or lifting at all / you have a project on your hands to refinish them - but you won't know if there is any damage until they're dry. But most decent varnish jobs - will repel moisture pretty well ...oil finishes are going to fail in the rain.
 
Big Jim is correct. Take them inside where the humidity is under control. I would sit mine over the central heat/air vent for a day or so to let them dry out. Good Luck!
 
Usually wood really absorbs most moisture through the end grain like the butt stock under the butt pad.

Since the wood is finished, water absorption should be very low unless you submerge it under water for some time.

As above, take it into the house and allow to air dry a few days, then apply more wood finish, especially to open grain areas, or just apply a heavy coat of Johnson's Paste Wax to the inside areas, and don't wipe the wax off.
 
Thanks for the advice. I've got it in a back bedroom. Cleaned and oiled all the metal and springs down to the trigger group. The walnut is drying. I've coated the exterior wood with Johnson's paste wax a few weeks ago. After this, I'll make sure to get inside the forend and at the bearing plate and under the recoil pad.

Best,

Triple T
 
Inside the forend ...or on the end grain of the stock ...if its not finished.../ I wouldn't use wax on it (its not permanent enough). I would use Watco's Danish Oil ( its actually a Varnish )....and its easy to use / I'd put about 5 coats on it ...over about 6 or 7 days.../ it won't build up quite as thick as a good exterior varnish / like a spar varnish ....but it'll seal that open grain or unfinished areas that gun mfg's don't finish for some dumb reason.

Whenever I buy a new shotgun / or another shotgun ...the first thing I do / is take the stock off /clean and inspect everything .....and use Watco's finish on all the unfinished areas ( on Browning Citori O/U's they don't even finish the area under the adjustable combs...or inside the forend / or the end grain on the stocks either.../ so I've been doing this to all of my Citori's for years...and Browning BPS ...or whatever...
 
I'll check out Watco's oil. Looks like quality stuff. Just apply and let set, and apply again?

Thanks again for the tips,

Tony
 
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