I have used the OP#1 method over the years. Last time to zero a .22 rifle with an old Weaver D4 'scope:
(a) with friction adjustments not clicks,
(b) with the scope rotated in the mounts to put the crosshairs in an X with the adjust knobs down low profile 7:30 and 4:30, and
(c) with no memory what the value for the adjustment marks were.
Like the OP, I fired a group on an a close target and sandbagged the gun with crosshairs on the aiming point. I then looked through the 'scope and adjusted the crosshairs to cover the bullet group on the target. Did final adjust on a 25 yd target, then set up clay pigeons on the 65 yard backstop berm and busted a row to be sure of zero.
I also use this method for a 'scope sidemounted on a Carcano with the scope rotated so the UP-DN turret is the horizontal and the L-R is the vertical. That's so the bolt handle and clip load can clear the 'scope. (When I think of the reversed vertical and horizontal controls, I hear the theme to "The Outer Limits".)
The upper range at the gun club has concrete benches and I have four sand bags in my kit, so locking the gun immobile for adjustment is easy.
As a former hunter and now mostly plinker, I zero at a known distance on a windless day. Rather than adjust sights after zeroing them, I use Kentucky windage and Tennessee elevation like my ancesters. My BP rifles are zeroed at 100yds bullseye, I memorize sight picture for 100m, 150m, 200m silhouettes, and I try to "read" the grass on the range and hold for wind or wait til it stops.)