how to check a scope mount?

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mainecoon

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Suppose I walk into a gun store and find a great new rifle and scope, then have the scope mounted. Is there any way to check that the scope is mounted correctly, with the correct rings? I have had problems with rushed techs mounting scopes with the wrong rings.
 
I'm not sure how anyone can mount a scope with the wrong rings?

You know what the rifle is and you should know the correct rings for the rifle. Pretty hard to screw it up. The rings may vary as to height depending on the scope's objective lens diameter but even that should be apparent I would think.

Assuming the receiver is pre drilled and tapped why not buy the correct rings (manufacturer of your choice) and mount the scope?

Ron
 
It depends on the rings. Most are easy enough to mount yourself. Any of the rings that use a dovetail type of mount where the rings need to twist into the bases, or have a windage adjustable rear ring really need special tools to mount correctly. To ensure they are done right they should probably be done by a gunsmith who has the proper tools. Unless you already have the necessary tools. If you don't get them mounted right, and it is easy to do. You will have scope problems.

That is one of many reasons I avoid such rings like the plague. Buy some Talley Lightweights, or DNZ mounts and screw them on. They cost less, are lighter, stronger and you can't mess up.
 
If you buy a gun and scope from a LGS they will often mount the scope for free. I have bought off the shelf gun scope combos from various manufacturers and they are all bore sighted but not zero'd. I have also had the pre paired combos shake loose after less than 100 rounds. I prefer to do it myself with a torque wrench and locktite so nothing comes lose at the wrong time.
 
I've always done it myself with a proper torque wrench. This also let's you verify the scope is level to the rifle and the crosshairs are properly aligned. It is as simple as changing tires.
 
The proper way is to lap the rings and torque the screws.I rarely do, however I use quality rings and don't adjust the scope with the rings tight enough to mark the scope.I've also mounted enough scopes to get very close to proper torque without a torque wrench.
 
I've never lapped good rings. I've never had ring marks left by quality rings on a solid base. Sometimes these issues come from bases that aren't flat so rings aren't axially true, which pinches the scope.
 
I would mount the scope yourself if you have the tools. I like to clean out all the thread holes and degrease them and then loc-tite them(242/blue)then torque. I also apply some 3M Scotch Coat to the inside of the rings and let dry,then mount.This helps give the rings some "grip" on heavy recoiling guns and also protects the scope finish should you choose to swap out optics.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...ZCgs_6NT6927VB5_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv)&rt=d
 
Other Than Screws...

It isn't too hard to set up base(s) and rings, make sure the tube is aligned, and that screw tension is OK, Loctite used, etc. -BUT, in my experience, the one thing a lot of LGS guys don't do is a good job of making sure the crosshairs are aligned to true vertical and horizontal with respect to the gun. I just went through correcting that problem on a couple of my (inherited) rifles that had been "scoped" by different LGS's.

I use a gun vise set up on a flat surface with ample space on both sides. I then balance a 16" steel rule (from a combination square) centered on the elevation screw cover on top of the scope, at right angles to the bore. I use a second combination square and measure the table-to-steel rule height at each end of the balanced rule. The scope then gets rotated until the end height is equal on both sides.

As long as the gun vise is holding the rifle axis at true vertical, this gives a very precise crosshair alignment. Most LGS guys I've seen, just do this alignment "by eye"...and it DOES make a difference!
 
One trick for quick scope alignment. Most folks are running some sort of picatinny rail. Stop by Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap feeler gage set. Adjust the feeler stack to the same width as the gap formed by the bottom of the turret housing's flat surface and the top of the picatinny rail. While you slowly tighten down your rings, your scope will self-adjust to true because the flat of the turret housing will run parallel to the picatinny rail's top with the feeler gage stack sandwiched in there. I've never had problems using this method.
 
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