how to Making a 1858 snub nose by hand

Status
Not open for further replies.
duelist1954.

He is a member and has a Youtube channel and does so with two different guns, one with adjustable sights and cylinder conversion , one straight up. Both steel frame.

I like his reshaped frame ideas.

Looking at his videos gives you a good idea what can be done and how it will look. Not wild about his way of keeping the cylinder pin in, but it looks fine and works.

-kBob
 
If you don't have a lathe, use a machinist square when you file the barrel to remove the saw marks. Check it from various angles. You might want to highlight the high spots with a felt market and file that spot.
 
Sure you can, although they're better ways. Do keep in mind that back in the 19th century blacksmiths and gunsmiths did this using the original revolvers. The idea is not a new development.

That said, most of these guns weren't cut down until metallic cartridges came into the picture. As a practical matter they're isn't a good way to load or reload a C&B cylinder without a rammer with a long handle.

I know of a recorded incident where Ben Thompson - a Texas gambler/gunfighter, sent a 12 year-old-relative into town with his apparently cut-down percussion revolver to have a gunsmith reload the cylinder. :uhoh:
 
sure you can

Forget about the dremel - the steel is soft and you can do it all with a hacksaw, files, and emery cloth. Also a good square & vice will help.

I dug up my old links, and would like to direct you to the Mohave Gambler's project pages:

http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archives/Jun03/HowTo.htm
http://www.time-slice.com/mohave.gambler/favorites/Remington/Lil Bruiser/Lil Bruiser.htm
http://www.time-slice.com/mohave.gambler/favorites/Remington/58_Rem_tuning/58_Rem_tuning.htm

please note, that whilst he used a .45 ACP conversion cylinder in a brass frame (which is contrary to all advice) , he only shoots *HIS* 20 gr BP loads in it.

good luck, have fun

yhs
shunka
 
I did mine by hand, hacksaw, square, files, emory cloth from 400 to 2000.

I also used a chamfer bit (grinding point stone) to clean up and crown a little.

silver soldered in a front post

medium.jpg
 
I just saw this part the other day while i was browsing Midway. A similar part may be available elsewhere for less loot.
 
Back when....

During the 19th century a common technique when cutting down a Remington New Model Army was to drill and thread a hole in the flange at the front of the cylinder pin. A screw with a large/flat head that could be turned by hand was installed that would enter a short blind hole in the bottom barrel wall. Thus the rammer assembly (the patent for which the date "1858" appears on the barrel - it has nothing too do with the revolver's model) was not necessary to keep the cylinder pin in place. Thereafter the barrel could be shortened to any desired length.

This didn't facilitate fast cylinder switches, but apparently it wasn't a concern, and it is period correct - unlike some modern solutions.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top