Very true - -
caz223 - - easier, slicker, quicker to do it with a Lee hand priming tool, or an old 310 tong tool, or the priming arm on a bench loading press for that matter. I have the impression that the goal is to do it with the least possible expenditure, though.
I've done the job with all the tips already given, and they all work. One final point: Once you get started, reloading ammo sort of takes on a life of its own, and sooner or later, you may, just MAY, decide to go on to loading powder and lead. Therefore, as soon as you drill out the flash holes, it is a good idea to mark the case heads so that someone won't inadvertently load the cases with normal charges and bullets.
It is easy to clean the case heads with alcohol, let them dry, and then paint them
RED. Plastic model enamel works well, as does nail polish. Even if it wears off the flat areas, the headstamp will be filled with the color.
agdude, I dunno if the instructions you read mentioned this but - - - Best to push the case mouth through the paraffin block
first, and only then insert the primer, if you have a way other than the dowel-inside-the-case method. Otherwise the air compressed within the case will slowly ease the wax bullet out of the case.
Please - - Don't be careless with wax bullet loads. No matter how weak, this IS live ammunition. There's sufficient bullet mass and plenty of velocity to cause a bloody and painful, though shallow, wound on unprotected skin. And hitting an eyeball at close range? Doesn't bear thinking about.
Hope you enjoy your wax loads as much as I did mine.
Johnny