How to wire the "proximity switch" for the Pistol Bullet Feeder?

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The switch itself will likely be a very low current device, you will want to trigger a relay to control the load, in most cases.

Something like this.



That said a regular mechanical switch is less complicated, they can switch quite a bit more current.

FB7B4E51-35D3-49AE-B8A3-F14B79008628.jpeg
 
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says video unavailable , maybe just a link to it?

I wanted to do a mechanical switch but the ones i have found and ordered are to stiff, no way a bullet even a 45 will push it

I can go either way, I can figure it out, just need a little help with how to wire them up
My good friend is a electrician so that will help :)
 
jmorris said:
The switch itself will likely be a very low current device, you will want to trigger a relay to control the load, in most cases.
Click to expand...

No, it's way more simple than all that. Just wire it across the neutral 120v line inside the bullet collator box. No relay....just cut the white wire, and strip each cut so to can wire nut it to the two switch leads....

IMG_0854.JPG

The only other thing you have to do is drill a hole in the bottom of the bullet feeder case to feed the switch cord in....see below....
IMG_0856.JPG
Picture below shows the original switch I used....similar to the one jmorris shows.....but could not find one long enough to get the leverage needed....the double alpha is looong....so should work better than anything available earlier.

IMG_0917.JPG



I'm not surprised that Double Alpha now supplies them separate for $8.00.....they sure were hard to find when my project was built. Makes me wonder how many they have to replace.

Jmorris said, "That said a regular mechanical switch is less complicated, they can switch quite a bit more current."

I found just the opposite......the proximity switch I use now is simpler and way more trouble free. Works every time, no readjusting necessary no matter what size bullet....no holes in the tubing necessary either. Also the switch I used has no trouble switching 120v house current to the Hornady motor. I have no desire to go backwards to a micro switch again...even with Double Alpha's switch now available for the same price.
 
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Thank you very much GW Staar. That will help a lot! Part ordered and shipped today. I already have the tube and other parts ready to go.
 
Glad you got it working. I never realized how loud the Hornady collators were, not sure why how. I have read of people putting cooking pot lids on top of them to cut down the noise.

There are other options for collators though.

 
jmorris said:
Glad you got it working. I never realized how loud the Hornady collators were, not sure why how. I have read of people putting cooking pot lids on top of them to cut down the noise.

There are other options for collators though.

Click to expand...



I made one of my own like yours there, and it is so stupidly effective compared to the Hornady one it just makes you shake your head.
 
AR-Bossman said:
I made one of my own like yours there, and it is so stupidly effective compared to the Hornady one it just makes you shake your head.
Click to expand...

It is a good design and lots of others would be making them except Rick (mrbulletfeeder) holds patents that stop folks.

Entirely crimson use to make “kits” that were cheap but stopped selling them once lawyers got involved. I know he had voiced his disapproval of Ammomikes files but I guess because he’s not selling anything or making anything they can’t force him to take them down.
 
I was wondering how Ammomike got away with it. I have to say that Rick is one of the most intelligent tinkerers there is. The flipper is just ingenious. The reason the Hornady is so d..mned loud is because the bullet travel from the bottom to the top of that oversized bucket is more than necessary and the inefficiency means the constant falling of the bullets. It's annoying to be sure. Rick's design has way fewer bullets falling back to the bottom, and less far to go.

In my "oldness" I am getting less and less able to put up with the noise....pan lid or not......really getting tempted to spend some bucks to buy a 3d machine this spring.....while Rick's invention copy is still up. (if/when I download it, Rick will get a $100 check from me....he deserves something for the design imo)

Some questions for jmorris....
1. What's the best choice (hindsight and experience noted) for a reasonable priced 3d printer......and software to run it?
2. Do you really think Rick's preoccupation with "stairsteps" in his design is reasonable?
3. Read one of the threads on castboolits, and seems you got past the "gotchas" pretty fast.....think your choice of printers helped with that?

I've been looking at the possibility of flipping bullets on the Hornady too......possibilities are there.....a 3d printer would speed that up too. I mean why waste a perfectly good machine (motor, bucket stand). What's wrong with having two for nearly the price of one?;) one for pistol one for rifle? A 3d printer to make the bullet wheels.....a person could sell those.....A person....not me. (I'm trying to retire not start something up.:))

BTW, John, wouldn't you like to see Rick's shop? Wonder if it is as elaborate as yours!
 
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Some questions for jmorris....
1. What's the best choice (hindsight and experience noted) for a reasonable priced 3d printer......and software to run it?
2. Do you really think Rick's preoccupation with "stairsteps" in his design is reasonable?
3. Read one of the threads on castboolits, and seems you got past the "gotchas" pretty fast.....think your choice of printers helped with that?
Click to expand...

Only one I ever messed with is the Anet A8, the cura software is a free download.

You don’t need all of the topography on the wheel or the “flipper”.

Not really a lot of “gotchas”, setup takes awhile. Would have been quite a bit quicker had I realized there were instructions on the memory card, before I finished putting it together.... Hatch, over on castboolits sent me some parts he suggested and also started a thread on printing the collators. I made my purchase based on his experience, as I had none.

I started printing simple things, small parts. Made sure everything was ok before I went after the large files. The last collator I printed took 42 hours to print the main body.
 
final pic with aluminum holding it.
I ended up wrapping the plastic tube with clear packing tape to reinforce it. As I know how brittle it will become over time

Big thanks again to all who helped with links to parts, set up and well everything!

index.php
IMG_0882

IMG_0882

 
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