Yeah, ya gotta try patch/ball/lube combos 'til ya find the one your shooter likes. It may not necessarily be the tightest one.
The only criterion I would recommend, and insist upon for myself, is pure linen for patch material. A simple 90' weave. And cut your patches, from a pre-lubed, rolled up strip, at the muzzle, w/a patch knife. Don't use pre-cut round patches. I think I covered this on another thread.
Cutting the patch material off, flush w/the muzzle, after the ball is started, always ensures the ball will be centered in the patch. That's very important. When the patch "sabot's", upon exiting the muzzle, ya want it to leave, off the back of the ball, w/neutral force vectors. If more material is flappin' off one side of the ball than the other, ya ain't got neutral force vectors anymore.
Pre-cut patches, never win matches...:-D
Linen is made from flax. When flax straw is broken, scraped, & combed, it makes "flax tow". Tow is what our ancestors used for cleaning "patches". It looks like beautiful blond hair, from a distance. Hence the nickname "tow-head" for blond kids.
When tow is woven into fabric, it becomes "linen". It's very tuff, and doesn't smolder like cotton patches do. And rifling won't cut thru it. It engraves well into lead balls, to grip 'em, while the rifling grabs the linen. The 90' weave grips better than bias patterns, like pillow ticking, which is cotton. You can orient, or position, the patch, relative to the bore, the same way every load, cuz it's a simple crisscross weave. This conforms to the priciple of "repeatability". Doing the exact same thing every load, which translates into accuracy.
I've shot just about every usable material there is, and linen beats 'em all, hands down.
The proof is on the paper. Your groups will shrink.
Linseed Oil = Linen Seed Oil = Flax Seed Oil...from pressing flax seeds.