Hulls and wads

[evan price]

Dad gave me his MEC Sizemaster. I've only been loading up some Lee slugs with it. When I could get cheap target shotshells for $4-$5 a box, it wasn't intetresting to me... Now that target shells are getting toward $7-$8 a box, it looks like it's worth the time to reload basic shot shells now too.

So-
I have been saving my Remington Gun Club green hulls. Got about 500 of them. I know they are the unibody hulls like the old Win AA hulls and are good to go with Nitro or STS data.

I have PROMO powder, #8 shot, Win209 primers, now the wad choice.

For my slugs I'm using the grey WINAA12L 7/8 oz wad with my slugs. I could use this to load 7/8 oz or 1 oz shot loads. Dad says I can use up to 1-1/8 oz for trap so I would need a different wad.

What's the advantage to one wad over another?

I use the WAA12L grey for slugs because it fits great and I get a nice crimp.

For shot, I can use the Claybusters copies- CB8100-12 copy of Rem TGT-12, CB8118-12 copy of Rem figure 8, CB1100-12 copy of WinAA12SL, CB4118-12B Windjammer- all are in stock at my local gunstore.

When dealing with a generic taper wall hull and the same weight of shot, assuming load data is available, is there a specific difference in one wad's properties over another wad?

The WAA12SL is what a lot of people just say is the generic wad for these hulls. But why not the Rem figure-8 wad which would have been factory? And are the Windjammer designs with more, smaller petals worth trying? Somebody said to try the Green Dusters but I think Claybusters took over them, too. And somebody said the purple wad was what he liked (but he couldn't tell me the part number, just that it was purple).

Seems a bit more confusing than metalllic reloading.

Also they say that you need to follow the recipe exactly as shown.

But the recipe shows- for example- for 1200 fps use 17.5 grains, for 1250 fps use 18 grains, for 1300 fps use 18.5 grains.

Why can't I use something in between those ranges, if my charge bar drops exactly- for example- 17.8 grains and I don't mind being a little high/low of published data?

 

[Longhorn 76]

I would not be afraid to modify the powder charge a little. But if you begin to change hulls, wads, and primers from the recommended load, you are unwise.

 

[rbernie]

When dealing with a generic taper wall hull and the same weight of shot, assuming load data is available, is there a specific difference in one wad's properties over another wad?

Wads are generally selected to conform to a specific hull and shot weight choice. Wads that are good in straight wall hulls may be too long for tapered wall hulls, for example, and wads with lots of room for shot payload may result in dished crimps when used with light shot loads. Beyond that, there is the suggestion of patterning differences that are gun-specific.

Since I tend to use only AA/STS/RemGunClub tapered wall hulls and light loads, I just stick to the WINAA12L wads - it seems to work just fine and any misses downrange are fair misses caused by me.

Why can't I use something in between those ranges, if my charge bar drops exactly- for example- 17.8 grains and I don't mind being a little high/low of published data?

I've moved south/down from published loads without issue, keeping in mind to stay within 10% of the published data. At some point, the load may not give a clean burn if downloaded too much - I was always taught to stay within 10% of max unless the manufacturer published data suggesting that it was OK.

 

[MSgtEgress]

There isn't any real danger from deviating slightly from published data but if you do, and you can't chronograph our load you may find yourself missing targets. Most factory target ammo is around 1200fps. If your recipe is hotter or milder you could see your skeet/trap score suffer as the lead you used to use is too much or not enough

 

[blarby]

Sounds like you've got a good load dialed in right there !

the Grey wads are great- the WT12 Orange ones are good, too.

What load you are using kinda depends on your skill- 1.125 is gonna raise your cost per shot, but may give you more hits. .875 is gonna lower your cost- but you might lose a few birds trying to get used to shooting it.

"In general" The deviations you are considering aren't very dangerous- and shot bushings are notorious for being " More or less" one weight or the other. Shotgun loading using bushings is not an exact science. I've deviated much more than Bernie (above) has , and gotten both better- and poorer- results for my efforts.

Generally, using less weight than specified in a given recipe is going to get you more unburnt powder- thats been my experience.

For my slugs I'm using the grey WINAA12L 7/8 oz wad with my slugs. I could use this to load 7/8 oz or 1 oz shot loads.

Ive shot quite a lot of that load using Unique, HS-6 , red dot, and Green dot. If you can find a load that shoots good for you with that combo- you really shouldn't look much farther in less you have a specific purpose... As popped birds are popped birds- they either do, or they don't.

Nice thing is- you can leave your charge bar in for shot, or slugs Once you want to - buckshot would work well in that wad, too.

I got into experimenting when I found out "clays" loads are only marginal on real game- but thats a whole 'nother story.

Most of my wad selections have differed due to volume, or barrel protection ( for steel ). Most of those wt12 series wads are extremely similar, and have differences in pedal length and ( with the clones) the manufacturers choice of plastic.

If you can, pick up the BPI catalog- you can see a lot of the comparisons in product samples shown in its pages !

 

[oneounceload]

Look at the clones from ClayBuster and DownRange design, half the cost of Win or Rem OEM wads
While it is legal to shoot up to 1-1/8oz loads for trap - with the price of lead today you are better off shooting 7/8 or even 3/4 oz in 12 gauge for practice to make your lead $$$ go further. I reload 3/4 for both 12 and 20 for practice, which is the majority of my annual shooting. 1oz gets you 400 rounds from a bag of shot, 1-1/8 gets you 355, 3/4 gets you 535, or almost 8 boxes more than a 1-1/8 load

 

[rbernie]

Truth be told, I use the Claybuster's clone of the WinAA12L - seems to shoot no differently than the Win version.

 

[loose noose]

I use nothing but Claybuster wads in my 12, 20, and 410 loads, never had a problem using them.

 

[H Richard]

I also like the claybuster wads and load a 1 oz of #8's for just about all my clay shooting. Trap,skeet, and sporting clays.

 

[Uniquedot]

One of the best wads I've found for 1 1/8 oz loads is the down range blue wad which interchanges with AA12 data. I also like a good many of the claybuster wads. I've enjoyed many of the bpi imports as well. One thing for sure is if you want to use federal wads (if you load any straight walled hulls) go straight to federal! none of the clones compare to them...especially the crappy down range federal clones.

But the recipe shows- for example- for 1200 fps use 17.5 grains, for 1250 fps use 18 grains, for 1300 fps use 18.5 grains.

Why can't I use something in between those ranges, if my charge bar drops exactly- for example- 17.8 grains and I don't mind being a little high/low of published data?

A good manual such as reloading for shotgunners will show several different charge weights allowing you to see the pressure and velocity changes in THEIR tests. Until you become familiar with different hull and wad constructions as well as powders and especially primers you don't want to mess around with maximum pressure loads in shotshells unless you are REDUCING the charge a reasonable amount as in 5 to 10 %.

 

[evan price]

I went with 18 grains of promo, grey wad, 1 oz shot. Works great.

 

[gamestalker]

Back when I started loading shot shells I bought nothing but the name brand Win and Rem wads, I simply didn't know better. But a few years into loading a guy at the range got me started with Claybusters, and I haven't bought anything else since, unless I had to.

I still hear some that are absolutely adamant about there being a big difference in how they pattern, but I'll continue to put my savings toward powder and primers.

As for powder bushings, they drop what they drop. I've even reamed them from time to time to get closer to a charge that suits my taste, but usually I just verify it's dropping ball park, and go with it.

GS

 

[Uniquedot]

As for powder bushings, they drop what they drop. I've even reamed them from time to time to get closer to a charge that suits my taste, but usually I just verify it's dropping ball park, and go with it.

Have you ever weighed the shot coming from your shot bushings? if using magnum shot it will be considerably less weight and even chilled doesn't add up even though most claim their bushings are calibrated for chilled shot. I like the multi-scale charge bars as they are quick and easy to adjust and will give you the exact weights of powder and shot you desire.

 

[rbernie]

I have never used fixed orifice bushings - the adjustable bars are the only way to go, IMO.