Loading Lee slugs and buckshot

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Howa 9700

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Have decided its my turn to reinvent the wheel.

A little background. Resumed reloading last year after a decades long break. Back when, it was mostly shotgun, as I shot 100X as much there as for a rifle. What I loaded for then were for the usual suspects.....clay targets and hunting....upland birds and waterfowl.

One of my curiosities with loading for shotguns has always been to load slugs and buckshot. More out of curiosity than actual need. But going over the Lee stuff in the Lee reloading manual, it sounded doable so I decided I ought to give it a go. Has been an interesting experiment.

So first things first. Loading #4 buckshot is easy. Loading #00 buckshot also easy (with right components). The Lee slugs also easy, but not as per the instructions.

Concept of the Lee slug is you can easily load them like any other shotgun load.....drop the slug in a shot cup, and use a folded crimp. Done deal. NOT!

For starters, the load data that comes with the Lee slug is for HOT loads, presumably intended for deer hunting out to distances of 100 yards (if accurate enough). Velocities are cranked up to 1550 fps. That is not a normal shotgun load. I managed to load and shoot one from their load data and it was a hammer.

But aside from that, the load data is horribly out of date. For the 7/8 oz slugs, Lee lists 11 load combinations....except that 7 of those loads use an Activ wad that hasn't been made in over 20 years, so is unavailable. Of the 4 remaining, they list Winchester AA wads that are also no longer available, and many are finding the clones like Claybusters are just enough different, they don't work either. Federal Gold Medal has been dropped and most find a Lee Slug won't fit into an STS hull. So basically, none of the 11 loads are doable. I do have a small stash of OEM Win AA12 wads, and was able to load and fire one, but even that was wrong. The wad needed a spacer card to get the crimp right. So basically, as it stands today, none of the Lee data will work.

Next place folks turn to is Ballistics Products (BPI) which specializes in all things shotgun slugs. In BPI's slug loading manual they offer 14 load combinations, but all 14 of those use BPI's Lightning 078 wad.......which is intended for a straight wall hull.....yet they still have load data for Win AA and STS hulls, and again, when I tried to push a 7/8 oz Lee slug in the 078 wad into a Gun Club hull, I got a huge bulge that would not even crimp, let alone chamber and fire. No joy there.

Then there all the wacky guys on youtube. Gotta think some are lucky to be alive.

So that left me to my own devices......and this is what I"ve come up with. Reporting here for comments and advice on alternatives I've not come up with.

For starters, I have over 20 wads I have looked at, from both my stash accumulated over the past 50 years, as well as modern era. Most of the Fiochi, Claybuster and Downrange options, etc. From the past, I have Pacific Verelite, Alcan Flite Max 1, 3, 4 and Unisleeves, Remington power pistons, Federal Champion and Pushin Cushion......(Federal 12S3), and the aforementioned Win AA12 (white) and AA12R (red). Maybe a few more than I forgot.

As for hulls, modern load data from Hodgdon has now been pared down to only Federal Gold Meda (which appears to have been dropped), Remington STS and cousins, and Win AA, both HS and Compression formed. With Federal dropped, slugs not fitting into STS, that leaves only the Win AA to work with as far as finding load data (2022 basic reloading manual). But go back in time, and you can find others. An older manual did also list Fiochi.

Which gets us to the next part, Dogma says you need to load slugs into straight walled hulls. Nobody says why, but at least in the case of BPI, the 078 wad they list is probably made by Fiochi and is intended for straight walled hulls (like Fiochi). But that is a problem when 90% of the hulls are tapered. Wads are not a good match.

So lastly, we get to the part about using the folded crimp......vs. rolled crimp, which is what dogma also suggests for loading slugs. My guess is a rolled crimp is due to the mix and match nature of components, the internal spacing never works out right, so guys can't get a good folded crimp, so they roll it......plus rolled crimp seems to be traditional for slug loads.

So where did I wind up that works? For starters, I ditched the Lee HOT load concept. Home Defense loads are often described as "reduced recoil" and show velocities in the 1150 fps range. With a 7/8 oz payload, that is a mild load that can be found in hundreds of combinations. But a hotter load in the 1250 to 1350 fps range is also doable with easy to find powders and components. At the low end, you can use faster powders like Red Dot, Nitro 100, Titewad, Ramshot Competition, Clays. Move up a hotter load and you move up to powders like International or Green Dot....still find plenty of load data combinations that will send a slug down the tube at a plenty fast enough rate to do some damage to whatever it encounters downrange. You wouldn't want to be standing in front of it when it goes off.

Load concept 1: I found new, clear, unfired Fiochi hulls sold with a new Fiochi 616 primer. That hull, combined with either the BPI 078 lighting, or nearly idential Fiochi 7/8 oz wad can be set over any one of a half dozen powders of various burn speeds to get velocities in the range of 1150 to 1400 fps. The slug fits the wad, what fits the hull.....and leaves 1/2" of hull for a folded crimip. Fiochi hulls normally get a 6 point crimp, and that has worked for me. Fiochi also makes a nearly identical wad for 1 oz to 1 1/8 oz shot loads that with addition of a nitro card, would work the same. An advantage of the clear Fiochi hulls is you can easily see what you got. Slug or buckshot and even which one.

Mention of the nitro card also swerves into a different issue, which is the interaction of the plastic wad with the Lee key drive slug. Lee intended it to dig in a bit, so if fired from a rifled barrel, wad would spin up and spin up the slug with it, promoting better accuracy. What some have found is the end result is the two tend to merge into one, wad does not release, and the slug takes the wad with it downrange to the target. Instead of enhancing accuracy, it detracts from it. What others are finding is if you put a card under the slug, the wad will release, and the 7/8 oz version at least, is nose heavy, and is pretty accurate by itself as it simulates the shuttlecock design of some other slugs.

Load concept 2: Win AA hulls, either HS or CF will take a slug with the right wad. Genuine AA12 wads will load and fire well with slugs. No bulge. Claybusters and Downrange are two of the most common clones and what 99.9% of reloaders use. I have one DR wad what loads and works well, but got a lot of blowby on both the wad and hull exterior, suggesting the fit was not tight. Some of the CB wads have a thickened section running vertical with the petals........such that a slug inserted into them splays the petals out, and you get a bulged case. OEM Win AA12 do not have that rib. Still working on those.

The draw or appeal of the Wiin AA cases is the number of components designed for them is larger than for Fed, Fiochi and Rem combined.

Lastly, by using a wad with 1 1/8 oz shot cup, the exact same load.....same hull, primer, powder and wad can be used for either the Lee slug (with nitro card spacer) or a 7/8 oz to 1 oz load of #4 buckshot. One set of components, two different loads.
 
I left mention of the #00 buckshot out of the first post, as it deserves it's own post. For starters, I never realized, but once you get to 00 Buck, they don't tell you the load weight. Most list only pellet count, and most seem to be 9 pellets. When I weighed mine, I concluded that each shot weighs approximately 1/8 oz. So an 8 pellet load is 8 x 1/8 = 1 oz. 9 pellets would be 1 1/8 oz. Matters, as load data is not for pellets, but ounces. So you need to do the conversion.

Next problem.......when stacking 00 buck in a wad, the natural fit is 2 x 2. So to get 8 pellets in a cup, that means 2x2x2x2. The last two will stick up proud of a shot cup for 1 1/8 oz. So a wad is needed for 1 1/4 oz.......even though the payload is only 1 oz. You won't find any load data for that. Even harder is finding any modern era wads for 1 1/4 oz. They exist in theory, and on product rosters, but not many you can lay your hands on. A Federal 12S4 for example, which is one of the few straight wall wad designs a guy could poke into that Fiochi hull where the spacing and fill would work out right for a good crimp.

So what about the 9 shot load? In theory, that would get stacked 3 x 3 x 3 and would fit into wads sized for 1 1/8 oz payloads. But for me anyway, that pattern will not fit into any of my wads. Even if you could get them to fit, it would bulge the hull. They might fit into a hull over shot cards and such.....no wad cup. That would mean they are sliding naked up the tube......like shot from days of old. Does anyone know? Is that how the 9 pellet factor loads are done?

For now, I'm using some of my stash of old components and wads for 1 1/4 oz. Enough stash I could easily load a several hundred rounds if I wanted to. But my ability to that is not helpful to one without, however, and that is what I am trying to get to. Recommendations on an 8 pellet load from off the shelf components that anyone with a loader and a bit of common sense could load up at home.
 
I buy the cheap target loads (Winchester or Federal) sold at Walmart. Dump the shot (#7 1/2 or #8). Insert a Lee slug and roll crimp it.
They work pretty good out to 40-50yds.

If memory serves, those are both cheap straight walled hulls, so the slug fits.....no bulge. Do you use a card below or just drop it in the shot cup and roll?
 
I also concluded that a good fit of buckshot into a common modern era wad for 1 1/8 oz would be either #1 or #0 buckshot. Largest one that would stack in 3's. Problem being those are not commonly available sizes. If memory serves, Lee sells shot molds for #4 and #00 buckshot only. Not sure about other sources like Hornady and perhaps BPI.

So I have stuck to the common sizes for my load workups.
 
I started using a card but am trying no card to see if there is a difference. So far I don't see any at 20yds (the most I can shoot indoors).
When we can hit the outdoor range we can go out to 50yds or more. Just doing this for fun so not looking for super accugacy.
 
I also note that for home defense, most guys lean towards #00 buck. That may apply to LEO and military as well. Talked to guy who I'll simply describe as highly knowledgeable.......and he told me all his HD shotguns are loaded with #4 lead. Not even #4 buck or even BB's. That seems light to me.

Having said that, I can remember a kid I went to school with back in the day. He died the day his brother accidenty shot him in the head at close range with a 410 loaded with #6 shot for rabbits. Not enough of his head was left to have an open casket. So at close range, would not want to get shot with anything out of a shotgun.
 
I use a load from my Lyman manual for a 7/8 ounce trap load. Remington hulls, Claybuster wads CB0178-12 (AA12L interchange), mec #27 powder bushing for 700x or Red Dot, and win or rem primers. Instead of the shot I push in the slug or buckshot. If I remember correctly its 17 #4 buck, or 6 00 buck, or 7/8 slug that i cast from wheel weights. All works well with my normal star crimp that my MEC 600jr produces.
 
I've been fooling with my own cast slugs for fifty years or more. When you stumble on s load for any of the following, Lyman Foster, Lee 7/8 or Lee 1 oz, Lyman sabot, that will shoot in five inches consistently at 100 yards, please post.
 
I'm fairly new to loading and shooting slugs.......but it strikes me that shooting tight groups at 100 yards with a shotgun of any type is asking a lot from the platform. I suspect it would take a rifled barrel, adjustable iron sights or even a scope, good rest and something other than a home grown Lee slug. Guys that are forced to hunt with one and want to push that out to 100 yards would certainly have the need to pursue it.

For me........I'm allowed and have a different tool for that job.........

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But as for my Lee slug experience to date........target below is what it has given me........fired offhand through an old Wingmaster with a single bead site.....at 50 feet. Velocity of #5 loaded to Lee specs and clocked at 1475 fps. Shots 1, 6 and 7 were my concoctions and all around 1,300 fps.

My guess is those would work on deer out to ranges equal to what a bow hunter might be capable of.........and for home defense.......would sent an intruder back out the door from whence he came......very much the worse for the wear.

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I guess my point is as long as one maintains realistic expectations, it is possible to load these Lee slugs at home and have an effective round to use.
 
I tested the Lee 12 GA Key drive slug when it first became available. WWAA 2 3/4" hulls. The wad i used, is no longer available.
Accuracy- Average 7" @100 yards, 5 shot groups. This included the flyer, when a wadd petal is cut off by the base of the slug expanding.
Loaded using Lee's method.
Reloading the same hulls a 2nd & 3th time increased accuracy. Think "fire forming" to the chamber. Used Mec 600jr to load.

Reduced loads using Unique did not produce good accuracy. The slug did not expand/SLUMP on firing. The pure lead needs to be hit hard by the wad to expand it, to take the rifling.

Test in smooth bore turkey barrel with i/c choke to 50 yards, scope mounted on receiver. OK for deer. Forget group averages. Tested little.
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I tested the Lee 12 GA Key drive slug when it first became available. WWAA 2 3/4" hulls. The wad i used, is no longer available.
Accuracy- Average 7" @100 yards, 5 shot groups. This included the flyer, when a wadd petal is cut off by the base of the slug expanding.
Loaded using Lee's method.
Reloading the same hulls a 2nd & 3th time increased accuracy. Think "fire forming" to the chamber. Used Mec 600jr to load.

Reduced loads using Unique did not produce good accuracy. The slug did not expand/SLUMP on firing. The pure lead needs to be hit hard by the wad to expand it, to take the rifling.

Thats new and very hlepful information I've not seen mentioned anywhere else. And if expansion of the slug to take the rifling is the case, goes a long way towards explaining why Lee is very clear in instructions on need to use pure lead......not wheel weights. They leave you guessing as to why.

And if intent is to hit them hard to get them to expand, that also explains why the loads are jacked up to the 1550 fps level. Loaded to that level, they do go BANG!
 
That also helps temper expectations for guys like me firing these slugs with reduced loads through smooth bore tubes with a single bead sight.

Assume it to be a close range option, but since my expectation was it would have the same effective range as buckshot, I'm still OK with what I"m seeing.
 
With Remington, Hastings, Savage rifled barrels I have been able to get 3” at 50 with any and all reloaded slugs with work. Factory SST, Accutip, a big ragged hole. I am not a bad shot and have trophies in many shooting sports. Reloaded slugs, even with advice from ASSA and others and hundreds of ounces of lead launched down range have left me frustrated. Tight threesome and a couple fliers, in no order. Fold, roll no difference. I won’t hit deer on my property with anythigicantcount on, and don’t allow my “deer campers” to dodo either. Heck, I can get 3” with my 58 cal musket and round balls and try weigh the same as a 50 cal sabot slug, though several hundred fps slower.
Not complaining as I still enjoy the challenge of making something work.
 
For those who may have thought I was done with this.....not so. Been waiting on BPI to ship several orders. As one who lives close enough to Midway to go to the pickup window.........can order from there and have it in my hand in 2 hours. Waiting 2 weeks is agonizing.

Anyway.........about to share what I came up with. Have concluded in the modern era..........loading slugs or buckshot is a finding the right wad problem. Experienced shotshell loaders will recall that loading shotshells is a space filling problem. The interior of the hull consists of a base......powder charge......gas seal and spacers.....payload and eventually a crimp. A 7/8 oz Lee slug takes up about the same space as 7/8 oz of bird shot. So a large volume of space to fill below it. Buckshot is the opposite......in comparison to compact bird shot (like #8, etc), the same weight of buckshot is bulky by comparison. You need extra space to fit it in. Also important to note that most modern era hulls I have found have very short or shall base depths in relation to hulls from the past. Many of those old style hulls.....like the Remington/Peters Sure Shot filled much of the internal hull space with a thick base. Difference may be as much as 1/4" or more. All the difference made up with a collapsing space cushion designed into the wads. Space filler between the shot cup and gas seal.

So before going further, this is how far I went in looking for wads to use:

IMG_0248.jpg

I believe that is 25 or 26 different wads, and 6 hull types. Front row is from my stash of old......some dating back 50 years. Middle row is all modern stuff. With right hulls, wads from days past load as well as modern era......in many ways better.......but unless a guy has those old style hulls and wads to match, my findings there would be of no help to a guy loading in the modern era, so left those out of this discussion. But a lot of those do help understand the concept and problems, so will make mention of them here anyway.

First with Lee slugs. As noted in first post, load data sent with the slug mold is at least 20 years out of date and none of the components are still available. And as noted, Lee data is for high velocity loads to 1,550 fps. I'm sticking to 1,300 +/- for closer range work, which changes things a lot. You can load them up hot as Lee intended, but that is not what I have in mind.

So with Lee out of the picture, next source of published data comes from BPI, and all loads there use the BPI 078 Lighting wad, which is a wad designed for a straight wall hull like a Fiocchi. If you only stuck to that, your options would be extremely limited. Go from 26 wads to only 1 or 2? I was determined to do better than that, so went looking for more......and found them.

So out of the 26 or so wads I had access to, these are my modern era wad options for slugs:

IMG_0252.jpg

From left to right......the BPI 078, then Fiocchi 7/8 oz and 1 oz wads, which are sold by Graf's. Hope was the 1 oz......which is listed as a 1 1/8 0z could also be used for buckshot, but alas, not big enough. All shot sticks proud out the top. The 1 1/8 oz can be used with 7/8 oz load of #4 buck. If used with the Lee slug, needs a nitro card to get the spacing fill right. Probably a half a dozen powder choices that can safely get these slugs up to 1,200 to 1,300 fps. Clays, International, Titewad, Nitro 100, Ramshot Competition, Red Dot, Green Dot, etc. If you want to heat them up from there, Longshot, Blue Dot, Herco, 800X or HS6.

Which brings me to another point.....loading for Lee Slugs or buckshot is quickly going to take you out of any published load data. The combinations used are not to be found. So some rules of thumb have to be adopted........mainly, an ounce of lead is an ounce of lead. Does not matter if it is 1 oz of #8 birdshot or 1 oz of 00 buckshot. It weighs an ounce. Where the wheels seem to fall off is when a guy uses a wad designed for 1 1/4 oz of lead to load 1 oz of buckshot.........used to get the spacing right..........and then tries to use load data for 1 1/4 oz loads instead of the 1 oz he is sending down the tube. Just remember, the wad is just a space filler......nothing more, nothing less. The hull/primer/powder/payload weight is what you are loading. An oz is an oz. Find load data for an oz.


Back to the topic......so here is the thing with these wads. As shown on the two wads to the far right, the Pink wad is a Downrange 7/8 oz wad......and to the right of that is a gray Claybuster 7/8 oz wad. Notice how the wad petals splay out with slug inserted. Both of those have vertical ribs in the petals.........similar to what is shown on this Claybuster clone of the Federal 12S3:

IMG_0255.jpg

What that rib means is you will get a bump formed in any hull.......the slug is hard and does not yield........nor does the rib. With bump in the hull, you can't get it to crimp, let alone chamber. So wads with ribs won't work. Gotta be smooth petals. And BTW, I see where a lot of guys are trimming petals off to avoid the bump. Since Lee designed it undersized for the bore to be fired while seated in a wad, lack of petals would mean it is pinballing it's way up the tube......and to God only knows where once it sees daylight. Far better to pick the right hull/wad combo and do it right.

IMG_0252.jpg

So back to the lineup, from left to right......first 3 are what you can load a slug in a straight wall hull. The BPI 078 or Fiocchi wads. Moving on to the tapered hulls......means tapered wads to match. BPI has a blurb on their site that simply ways can't load Lee slugs in tapered hulls. I did, but had right wad to match. For me, that was a genuine OEM Win AA white wad in a Win AA hull. And my bag of Claybuster Win AA clones is nearly identical......no ribs, no bulge. What will also work in the Win AA hulls are the Downrange blue wads. Again, no rib. Problem with those is they seem to be slightly smaller in diameter and when fired from AA hulls, both sides of wad and end of hull were black.......suggesting to me a lot of blow by.....or not a good fit. Last blue wad on far right next to the pink wad is a Pacific Verelite Blue wad from years past. Again, smooth sides, and needs several nitro cards to fill space below slug, but can be loaded in a Win AA hull and will go bang. Point is......if slug fits.......it will probably work.....if you can get the wad fill spacing right.

Which brings us to STS hulls. I found no wads from my entire selection that could be loaded in an STS / Gun Club hull that did not have a bulge from the Lee slug. These hulls can work for buckshot, but not Lee Slugs. Ditto the Federal Top Gun hulls. They seem to have a smaller diameter.....so need a wad to match. Otherwise, Bump City.

So from modern era, I pretty much narrowed hull selection down to Fiocchi hulls (found 100 count bag of new primed hulls from Graf's for $15). Combined with 078 or Fiocchi wads, you got something that will work. Otherwise, Win AA hulls......either HS or CF.....and combine that with Claybuster (at least my version of it) Win AA clone, or DownRange AA clone. Since that is a wad for 1 1/8 oz load, it will need a nitro card spacer below the slug to get the crimp right. Pick a primer / powder combo to go with payload weight and desired velocity, and you are set.

Bottom line is you can load a Lee slug in a folded crimp hull. It will go BANG and it will do serious damage when it gets where it is going. As noted from my targets, at ranges inside 25 yards, plenty accurate from something as simple as my old 870 Wingmaster with single bead sight. Point and click. Hurt delivered.

One last thing about Lee slugs. I found multiple references to suggest that of the two....the 7/8 oz and 1 oz.......the 7/8 ounce is inherently more accurate. It is nose heavy.....and seems to adopt the shuttlecock affect to fly straighter. So in all my tests.....I have stuck to the 7/8 oz only.
 
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OK, moving on to buckshot.......this is also a wad sizing problem. Buckshot loads are not described by weight........rather by shot count. The defacto standard is 00 Buck, and probably 99% of that sold as 9 shot rounds. Try to load it and you find there is a good reason for this. The diameter of 00 Buck is 0.330 inches. Three of those will stack in a 3+3+3 pattern inside a 12 gauge shell........at least one that does not have a wad. It will have a gas seal, a felt or fiber spacer......and perhaps a shot card with roll crimp, or folded crimp. But no plastic wad. Try to use a wad and they won't fit. What will fit is a stack pattern of 2+2+2+2......or 8 pellets. But you have to have the right wad for even that. The right wad for that has a shot cup of at least 1 inch: Consider these old wads from the past:

IMG_0251.jpg

Three wads on the right are Remington Power Pistons. The RP12 was used for 1 1/4 oz loads, and has a 1" shot cup. Three wads in the middle are Alcan Flight Max, all having identical plastic cups, but differ in thickness of card filler. The #1 has 1" shot cup, and again wad designed for 1 1/4 oz loads. Next is a #3 with 7/8" shot cup, and the #4 has 3/4" shot cup, and used for 1 1/8 oz loads. A wad designed for 1 1/8 oz loads will only hold 6 - 00 Buck pellets, which brings us to another standard.........each 00 Buck pellet weighs 1/8 oz. So 6 of them........6/8 or 3/4 oz. 8 pellets is 1 oz and 9 is 1 1/8 oz. Good to know when figuring powder loads.

So to load even 8 pellets of 00 Buck in a wad means you have to have a wad with 1" cup. So what is the problem? In modern era, there are none. Technically they exist, but not really. I did manage to find a bag of Claybuster 1 1/4 oz wads for Win hulls, and as near as I could tell, are identical to the 1 1/8 oz. I held them side by side and saw no difference at all. Downrange is said to make one, but out of stock. You may find references to a Federal 12S4, but won't find one to buy. Said to be discontinued.

So what to do? BPI to the rescue. They offer wads for the modern era.........for non-toxic shot for waterfowl. Their MG42 is such an option...shown above, it is the wad on the far left. Will handle 8 pellets with enough room left over, it needs a shot card on top got get spacing right for a good crimp.

But that assumes you want to stick to the defacto standard of 00 Buck.........which is a good idea. It is only one of two buckshots still made and sold by Hornady (#4 Buck being the other) and Lee molds are commonly available to cast your own.

But what other options are there? Turns out there is one.........which may or may not be a good choice for you.......but smaller buckshot in the range of #1 or #0 buckshot is said to be ballistically equal to 00 and smaller pellets will fit in a 3+3+3 pattern inside a commonly available 1 1/8 oz wad.

i went looking and BPI had an 8 pound jar of # 1 1/2 Buck, with which is 0.310 vs 0.320 for 0 Buck and 0.330 for 00 Buck. Size wise, they look like this:

IMG_0245.jpg

Left to right........00 Buck; 1 1/2 Buck; #4 Buck.

Turns out you can get 9 of the 1 1/2 Buck pellets to stack 3+3+3 in a 1 1/8" oz wad. Payload will weight 0.93 oz.......roughly 15/16 oz.......so load data for a med to slightly heavier 1 oz load should work.

2X vs the 3X stack patterns:

IMG_0250.jpg


And again, notice how these fit in the 1 1/8 shot cup.........2nd from left........a Claybuster AA clone:

IMG_0251.jpg

If my math is right, that 8 pound jar is going to load approximately 125 rounds of buckshot. Five full 25 round boxes. That is a lot of protection. What is even more fun, is it turns out Lee also makes a 6 cavity mold for 0.310 round balls........so if a guy still wanted to cast his own, that is doable too. Yet another option......Hornady sells a 100 pellet count box of .32 caliber round lead balls.......which it also lists as 0.310 diameter......same as 1 1/2 buckshot. As an aside, if I was loading pistols and such and wanted 32 caliber balls, that 8 pound jar of 1 1/2 buckshot from BPI for $38 or so looks like a bargain.

You don't hear much about 1 1/2 buckshot, but maybe we should?

More test rounds ready to go: Left to right, those are Fiocchi hulls with Claybuster Federal 12S3 clone, loaded with 9 pellets 1 1/2 Buck........BPI MG42 with 10 pellets of 1 1/2 Buck.........and MG42 wad with 8 pellets of 00 Buck. First load should have had a shot card to get crimp spacing right.......as shown on other two.

Big advantage of the Fiocchi hulls is the visual. You don't have to wonder what is inside......you can see it.

IMG_0259.jpg IMG_0258.jpg
 
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Which brings me to my final point, if a guy was willing to use the 1 1/2 Buck, stay middle of the road in terms of velocity, it is possible to load a 7/8 oz Lee slug, 1 oz of #4 Buck or 15/16 oz of 1 1/2 Buck using one hull (Win AA), one wad (Claybuster Win AA clone or DownRange Blue wad), one primer, and one powder. I have been using around 20 grains of Green Dot for all mine with good results.

Would not want to be standing in front of any of them when it goes off.
 
A few more gems of wisdom. If you want a nitro card to insert into one of these shot wad cups, it needs to be a 20 gauge. Fits almost perfectly in standard 12 gauge shot wads. Any of the Claybuster or DownRange wads. Same with overshot cards.....if it has to fit inside the shot cup.

One prospect I had hopes for was BPI's Ranger Elite wad, intended for non-toxic. A big wad with no spacer, so all capacity. Turns out is heavy built wad with extreme internal taper. Could not even get 1 1/2 Buck to stack 2 x 2, let alone anything larger. So while it may be good for intended use, it is no help here. The taper is so extreme it would probably take at least a 28 gauge and maybe 410 felt or fiber spacer wad to seat on the bottom to fill the space. Wondering how much #4 buck it could hold, I got to 1 1/2 oz and still had about 1/4" of cup to fill. No use for this purpose. And despite appearances, the MG42 is actually a much stiffer built wad. Petals are thicker and should offer a lot more protection to shot during it's journey down the tube. Of the two, MG42 is clear winner.

The Ranger Elite shown on far right....just to left of it the MG42. Taper and shape of even the MG42 was such that when trying to seat the wad with the wad ram of my loader, it was so deep ram bottomed out before compressing anything, and taper so extreme, internal sides pinched end of ram, such that ram brought the wad back up out of the hull with it. That was new.

This whole ensemble are wads intended for straight wall hulls like the Fiocchi. Note the pink 12S3 clone in the middle and Fiocchi wad to left of it. Both are holding same payload of 9 pellets of 1 1/2 buckshot. Both are same overall height, but 12S3 has a slightly deeper cup, with heavier petal thickness, so makes a much better fit for the load.

I have found references where guys have inserted the MG42 wad into tapered hulls like STS, etc, and got a bump. The MG42 and Ranger Elite wads are made in Italy.......so appears intended for the straight wall Euro hulls like Fiocchi, Rio, etc. Something to be aware of.

Loading in the modern era is a lot harder that than it used to be.

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Below...........Left to right......the Ranger Elite.......MG42 and 12S3 clone. Internal taper of the wads varies from extreme to none.
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Question for those here who might know........is a 6 pellet load of 00 Buckshot an effective load for home defense.....or any other use?
 
Howa 9700; re; 6pellets load...
Depending on how well it patterns.

I’m a 20ga shooter.
I tried some 12ga 1oz Lee slugs and found them unsatisfactory beyond 30-40yds.
Likewise, the Lyman 20ga “air gun pellet” slug works to 60yds, but 50yd 3” groups become 12+ at 100yds. A common theme...

I use cast .310” Lee round ball to load 20ga 10pellet 2-3/4” loads. They kill deer and pigs like lightning bolts to 40yds. Where/when legal, these are my preference.

Typically, only 5-7pellets strike the intended target, but if centered on the head or neck, they do substantial damage. Most will completely penetrate, with some remaining under the hide on far side.expansion/deformation is present if bones are hit.
The first time I used them on deer, I was two for two deer, with one only traveling 25yds after hit. First was a bang-flop.
Rio brand shotgun shells, offers a factory #1buck load for 20ga.


My most successful efforts at a 20ga slug has been the Lee .578” REAL bullet for a .58cal m/l. I’m using a Clay Buster copy of a Win AA wad in a Win compression hull. Slug weighs 1oz, so a 1oz charge weight of LongShot is used. Gets about 1,300fps.
Shot from my Savage M220;

View attachment 1065430 365A335D-9FEF-44EC-9547-84081D4BA188.jpeg

Fired at 50yds.
 
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Which brings me to my final point, if a guy was willing to use the 1 1/2 Buck, stay middle of the road in terms of velocity, it is possible to load a 7/8 oz Lee slug, 1 oz of #4 Buck or 15/16 oz of 1 1/2 Buck using one hull (Win AA), one wad (Claybuster Win AA clone or DownRange Blue wad), one primer, and one powder. I have been using around 20 grains of Green Dot for all mine with good results.
Great info, to cut back on all the different components available.

The defacto standard is 00 Buck

Hodgdon has loads using the 2 3/4" FEDERAL STEEL SHOT SHELLS .090" BASE WAD & HS-6. 5 different velocities are listed . Wads Fed. 12S3 & Fed. 12S4. Adding a buffering agent can make tighter patterns, if needed.

I don't load buckshot. I buy the Federal #4 Buck copper plated, with the buffer, for home protection. Would reload if i shot it more.

Six 00 buck, at close range should do the job for home protection? More may be better if shooting thru a door or thin wall?

Great write up. Ty.
 
The .310 round balls.......appear to me to offer the best payload prospect for simple home loading of buckshot, using commonly available off the shelf components. Nine of those balls will typically fit into any wad listed for 1 1/8 oz shot. The combined weight is roughtly 15/16 oz.......so load data for 1 oz loads to the desired velocity. I'm still looking and testing to see if different wads make any difference in patterns.

The three sources of these .310 balls that I know of is to cast them (Lee mold), buy them (Hornady sells them as a 100 count box of 32 caliber round balls) or when available, BPI sells an 8 pound jar of 1 1/2 buckshot, which are also .310 diameter.

Ballistics is said to be similar to 00 Buck.....as far as the damage they do on impact.

The reason for asking about 6 pellets of 00 Buck is 6 pellets will also fit into almost all wad designed for 1 1/8 oz. Turns out Hodgdon does not include load data for 3/4 oz in their print publication, but does have load data online for 3/4 oz using Clays, Titewad and 700X. So a 6 pellet or 3/4 oz load of 00 Buck from 12 gauge is also doable from commonly available off the shelf components.

The advantage of sticking with 00 Buck is a 5 pound box of 00 Buck from Hornady is still routinely available all over......as are the 00 Buck molds from Lee.
 
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