I’m new to reloading and want to make sure I’m not missing anything

[JStall]

So I’m just going to list what I understand about reloading. I’m using once fired brass so the process is different from purchased brass. So I lube the cases —> Deprime and resize —> If cases are too long then trim the case —> Debur both ends of the case and remove crimp it it’s there —> Tumble the cases —> Prime the case —> Add gun powder —> Seat the bullet —> Then I have a crimp die but I’ve read you don’t need it and something about every case has to be the exact same size if I use it?

I’m reloading 223 for an AR-15. Am I missing anything important? Is there something most new reloaders miss that I should know?

 

[Blue68f100]

Clean the brass before running them through the sizing die, to keep from damaging the die. The tumble case clean after sizing is just to remove the lube, you can just wipe them off. Depending on lube you may not even be required if use the OneShot.

Debur inside and out oo the mouth of the case after trimming.

 

[Highland Lofts]

Calipers to check over all length.

 

[mjsdwash]

"small base dies" if you haven't already bought your dies. Or Lee standard dies. If you already have, your probably fine. I bought a #17 drill bit from Fastenal's retail store. If the flat end fits smoothly in the primer hole, you don't need to deal with the crimp. If loading in bulk, theres some good tools for speed. if the bullet has a cannelure, crimp it. It won't hurt, and it eliminated bullet setback. You can always stop crimping later. Feel free to give your location and see if you can find a mentor. I use Frankford arsenal spray lube and it words well. I have also used motor oil for years and it words well.

Most important advice. If you see a single load listed, and not a range, thats the max. Start lower by 10%. Listing only a max was the standard for a long time, and if a range was given, it was because that powder had issues at low pressure.

 

[mjsdwash]

if you get a stuck case, and you probably will, ask for help here, or search for video's. Dies usually have a way to remove a case without repair. I size .223 by the hundreds on a loadmaster, and that leads to stuck cases becoming relatively common. I have get one out in under 2 minutes without hurting the die. Can't help with other makers, but I can walk you through a Lee die.

 

[splattergun]

Except for depriming, the process for reloading new and fired brass is the same. That is to say, I always size new brass.

This is how I do rifle brass;
1-deprime as a separate step.
2- Tumble the brass
3- lube and size
4- trim and deburr the mouth inside and out
5- wipe off lube and brass flakes from trim step
6- primer
7- charge and inspect each case for correct charge
8- seat bullet
9-Final inspection including OAL measurement.
If you're reloading military brass with crimped primers, you may need to add a step between my #1-2 to remove the primer crimp. When I find that type, a couple turns with a philips screwdriver in the primer pocket does the trick without a special (read expensive) tool. This only needs to be done once and not needed for civilian brass.
I inspect every piece of brass every time I handle it looking not only for defective brass but also for my own mistakes.

 

[sparkyv]

Howdy, from Texas.
Whatcha got works, JStall. As you can read above, some do it a little differently, but got the basics.

 

[JStall]

Clean the brass before running them through the sizing die, to keep from damaging the die. The tumble case clean after sizing is just to remove the lube, you can just wipe them off. Depending on lube you may not even be required if use the OneShot.

Debur inside and out oo the mouth of the case after trimming.

Yeah when I first started I forgot to lube before running them through the resizing die and got 50 in before I got a stuck case. I ended up bending the rod in the die so I had to buy a new one. I learned that lesson the hard way. What about crimping it? Is it necessary? Also, almost every one of my brass cases is 0.01 longer than max before even resizing. Is that normal?

 

[Skgreen]

1st, Welcome to THR!

Quite a few different ways one can go about doing it all.

Without knowing what equipment / supplies you have, it's a bit of a challenge to come up with a 'short list' that would be 100% applicable.

I started reloading with a Rock Chucker Supreme Master kit.

With the contents of that single-stage kit, and a set of calipers/dies/harbor freight dual drum tumbler, my steps at that time were:

1. Tumble
2. Lube
3. Size - decap
4. Remove lube with cold water rinse.
X. (Didn't have any equipment to trim with. Pretty sure I didn't do extensive chamfer/debur either as a lot of the need for such arises with case trimming)
5. Prime.
6. Charge.
7. Seat.

Do I still do it the same way today? Nope.

Either way, welcome again!

 

[Average Joe]

Looks like your on the right track, enjoy !

 

[AJC1]

If you have a brand new die clean it well and lube yhb die as well.

PERSONAL RECOMENDATION: TAKE OUT THE EXPANDER BALL AND DECAPING PIN. Once you have successfully sized a dozen cases without one getting stuck your in the clear and put it back in. On must dies you can insert some drill rod or a punch to get out a stuck case with no special tools or risk bending your decaping rod. Once stuck your level of frustration goes to max.

 

[JStall]

If you have a brand new die clean it well and lube yhb die as well.

PERSONAL RECOMENDATION: TAKE OUT THE EXPANDER BALL AND DECAPING PIN. Once you have successfully sized a dozen cases without one getting stuck your in the clear and put it back in. On must dies you can insert some drill rod or a punch to get out a stuck case with no special tools or risk bending your decaping rod. Once stuck your level of frustration goes to max.

Haha yeah a stuck case is a tragedy. Luckily though I’ve deprimed about 200 cases and I haven’t gotten one stuck. The lube seems to be working pretty good and I bought a stuck case kit too

 

[AJC1]

Haha yeah a stuck case is a tragedy. Luckily though I’ve deprimed about 200 cases and I haven’t gotten one stuck. The lube seems to be working pretty good and I bought a stuck case kit too

I never put mine back in. I use an expander mandrel for setting final neck deminsion. Its definitely not faster but I enjoy reloading and I like the results.

 

[Hondo 60]

Welcome to thr!
And welcome to the addict ... Oh, I mean hobby
Ya, that's it hobby

When trimming, I usually use the calipers (after sizing)
and trim to the size of the shortest case I'm gonna use.
That way they're all the same.

If it's too short, toss it in the scrap bucket.
For instance when reloading 223, ... most reloading manuals call for a "Trim To Length"
of 1.750, but I've seen factory ammo as short as 1.740 (Federal Eagle).
If that's the case, then I trim to 1,740(but not shorter).
Anything shorter than 1.740 goes in the scrap bucket.

You'll have to look around for the details of whatever caliber you're gonna reload.
Good Luck!

 

[Sniper66]

I always tumble first, as others have said. I spend a lot of time prepping brass and it really pays off...I don't take short-cuts. For removing primer crimps I use a counter-sink drill bit and a few spins of the drill cuts them out nicely.
Also trim and size new brass. I also tumble again briefly to remove lube.