New to Rifle Reloading

[Sig229ESS]

I lurk for the most part and don’t say much but I’m always logged in and reading. Well I’ve done so much reading that now I’m questioning and thinking through it all but I think I’m missing something. Information overload I guess.

I’ve been reloading pistol for years and a year ago I drank the blue Kool-Aid and bought a 650, said goodbye to my LNL, and haven’t looked back. Fast forward a year later and I want to reload 223 and 308. I’ve been purchasing equipment for reloading 223 (I admit a few times I really didn’t think it through and will likely have some equipment gathering dust) and putting together a checklist of what I need to do (yes should have done this first). My question and confusion has to do with brass prep.

Here is what I think I need to do

Decap (universal die mighty armory)

Wet tumble (Franklin Armory Tumbler and Brass Dryer)

Swage (Dillon 600)

Anneal (when I get into something I dive into the deep end first) every 3-5 firing (Annealeez)

Trim (Dillon RT1500 and a Franklin Armory trimmer. Few beers one night and now have both)

Size (RCBS X-die small base)

Dry Tumble (Franklin Armory to remove the lube)

1. Is the order correct?

2. Do I lube dirty brass to decap?

3. I’ve read that some people don’t size with the Dillon trimmer and just trim so they don’t size twice that being the case do I size first? I think this is causing me the most confusion.

4. I’ve read a few posts that using the RT1500 you don’t need to debur and chamfer especially if you dry tumble after (true?)

5. Should I be decapping on a different tool head than the trimmer? I don’t want to size dirty brass. I’m thinking I need to wet tumble before everything?

6. I read decapping again after dry lube to ensure the primer pocket is clean. That being the case do I place the Sizing die on the tool head I use for reloading as opposed to case prep?

I think my head hurts….

 

[Axis II]

If your using the wet tumbler i see no reason to use the dry tumbler. I hate my dry tumbler due to the dust it leaves on the cases so wet tumbling, lubing, sizing and then dry tumbling leaving dust on everything doesn't make much sense to me.

Universal decap die i wouldn't think you would need lube because its tolerances aren't that tight like a size die.

If it were me i would decap on the universal die, wet tumbler, dry, lube, size and wipe off the lube with a rag, trim, load.

Brass should be trimmer after sizing and not before.

 

[Muddydogs]

Here is what I would do.

Deprime with universal decapper, no lube required due to the die only pushes out the primer and doesn't touch the case walls.

Wet tumble

Anneal

lube cases

Size, always size before trimming. If using the Dillon trimmer it sizes and trims at the same time right? Some guys like to make sure the case is sized and I guess don't fully trust the Dillon sizer in the trimmer so they will put a die like the Redding body die in the mix after the Dillon to make sure the case is sized all the way, others will just use a small base die.

Tumble off the case lube. A lot of wet tumblers use dry corn cob for this step.

Trim

Swag primer pockets

The Dillon trimmer is supposed to debur and chamfer the case mouth, I don't see dry tumbling really removing anything extra the Dillion didn't. I prefer the extra chamfer the VLD chamfer tools give me as the case mouth is less prone to scratch the copper bullet jacket but for plinking range fodder I don't think it matters.

Not sure were all the talk about not sizing dirty brass started but there is no issue with sizing fired brass unless its been in the dirt and mud. Your sizing brass in a steal die, your not going to scratch or hurt the steal die but instead scratch the brass. Brass from bolt rifles and revolvers that never touch the ground can be sized before cleaning. Brass from semi auto firearms can also be sized before cleaning unless they have become gritty and even then the gritty ones can be sized but you run the risk of scratching some of the cases and maybe needing to clean your dies more often. A few times over the last 35 years of reloading I have had a piece of brass get scratched enough that a small piece of brass off the case was left in the die were it became stuck to the die and I had to pick the piece off with a pick then buff the inside of the die with polish. I've purchased a few dies that were scratching brass and the owner was convinced that the die was scratched and no good so I got them cheap knowing that the issue was just a chunk of brass welded to the die body.

 

[TheDomFather]

I lurk for the most part and don’t say much but I’m always logged in and reading. Well I’ve done so much reading that now I’m questioning and thinking through it all but I think I’m missing something. Information overload I guess.

I’ve been reloading pistol for years and a year ago I drank the blue Kool-Aid and bought a 650, said goodbye to my LNL, and haven’t looked back. Fast forward a year later and I want to reload 223 and 308. I’ve been purchasing equipment for reloading 223 (I admit a few times I really didn’t think it through and will likely have some equipment gathering dust) and putting together a checklist of what I need to do (yes should have done this first). My question and confusion has to do with brass prep.

Here is what I think I need to do

Decap (universal die mighty armory)

Wet tumble (Franklin Armory Tumbler and Brass Dryer)

Swage (Dillon 600)

Anneal (when I get into something I dive into the deep end first) every 3-5 firing (Annealeez)

Trim (Dillon RT1500 and a Franklin Armory trimmer. Few beers one night and now have both)

Size (RCBS X-die small base)

Dry Tumble (Franklin Armory to remove the lube)

1. Is the order correct? DD: YES THE ORDER IS CORRECT!

2. Do I lube dirty brass to decap? DD: NO YOU DO NOT NEED TO LUBE TO DECAP!

3. I’ve read that some people don’t size with the Dillon trimmer and just trim so they don’t size twice that being the case do I size first? I think this is causing me the most confusion. DD: SIZE THE CASE FIRST AS THIS WILL STRETCH THE CASE THEN TRIM, AFTER YOU TRIM YOU MUST CHAMFER AND DEBUR THE CASE MOUTH!

4. I’ve read a few posts that using the RT1500 you don’t need to debur and chamfer especially if you dry tumble after (true?) IF IT TRIMS AND CHAMFERS AND DEBURS ALL IN ONE STEP THEN YOU DONT NEED TO

5. Should I be decapping on a different tool head than the trimmer? I don’t want to size dirty brass. I’m thinking I need to wet tumble before everything? YES YOU NEED TO WET TUMBLE RIGHT AFTER YOU DECAP

6. I read decapping again after dry lube to ensure the primer pocket is clean. That being the case do I place the Sizing die on the tool head I use for reloading as opposed to case prep? YOU DONT NEED TO DO THIS

I think my head hurts….

HERE IS MY PROCESS HOPE THIS HELPS:



THANKS,
Dom

 

[ArchAngelCD]

You only need to swage the primer pockets if they have a crimped primer.

Flip two of your steps, full length size the cases before you trim. The sizing process lengthens the case.

Decapping refers to removing the spent primer. I'm not sure what you are referring to in your OP.

 

[Sig229ESS]

Thanks for the information everyone. I think I'm all set for now.

 

[thomas15]

You only need to swage the primer pockets if they have a crimped primer.

Flip two of your steps, full length size the cases before you trim. The sizing process lengthens the case.

Decapping refers to removing the spent primer. I'm not sure what you are referring to in your OP.

^^^ Correct. And if you trim the case then de-burr and chamfer next.

 

[420]

* Deprime
Stainless steel clean
Size
Trim, chamfer, debur
Vibratory clean
Prime
Charge
Seat

* Lee universal decapping die, https://leeprecision.com/decapping-die.html, works great and is quite a bit less than the Mighty Armory.

 

[Ireload2]

You have analysis paralysis if your head hurts.
Reloading rifle rounds is not complicated nor difficult.
Decap by hand or with a universal die.
Wash brass to remove grit and dirt. This can be done by hand.
FL size
Trim if reqd
Deburr
Reprime
Charge with powder
Seat bullets
It does not take the planning of a space shuttle launch or the equipment to fight a world war.

The first thing is to stop all the lurking and planning.

Commit to loading a few rounds ASAP or several more years may slip by.

I can reload about 50 different cartridges. For the most part all you need are a basic press, dies and a shell holder to get started.
I started about 50 years ago before a lot of the stuff you are considering was ever dreamt of.
What are you waiting for?

 

[Hokie_PhD]

Ireload2 it amazes me how people make reloading seem like this overly complex thing. I’m not sure if it’s to make themselves feel special or because companies sell so many tools and gadgets that they feel they need them.

I’m with you in that if you follow the basics then you have a great foundation. OP said they reload pistol, so unless I’m forgetting something, trimming and demurring are the only extra necessary steps as you point out.

 

[WestKentucky]

Your really just bending metal in a fancy way. Don't obsess and don't overcomplicate it.
Decap
Tumble
Size with lube
Tumble
Swage
Trim
Load
Anneal every few shots...but for 308 and 223 I don't see the point since it's cheap common and plentiful.

 

[clearcut]

My first 5 years of reloading I never heard of cleaning brass ....but that was a long time ago!!

CC

 

[NWPilgrim]

If you are using the X-Die you only trim the first time (FL size and trim). If you keep your previously trimmed brass sorted from any pick ups or new brass, then the next time you load you do not trim, just size in the X-die (set to the trim length) and it stays at the trim length. You don't have to remove the lube right after sizing. You can but it interrupts the load process on a turret or progressive. Dillon recommends for their presses that you remove lube by running the loaded cartridges through a corn com vibratory tumbler for 15 minutes. Or hand wipe them before placing in the cartridge box.

* denotes step performed on the press

FIRST LOADING:
*Decap (no lube) in universal decap die or hand decapper
Clean
Swage (if off press, such as a drill reamer or Dillon swager)
Lube
*Size (regular size die, or x-die back out to allow longer cases)
*Trim on press or off
*Charge
*Seat bullet
*(Optional crimp)
Remove lube (hand wipe or tumbler)

ALL OTHER LOADINGS
*Decap
Clean
Lube
*Size (using X-die adjusted to trimmed length)
*Charge
*Seat bullet
*(Optional crimp)
Remove lube

If you plan to trim every time then you don't need the X-die. If you use the x-die then trim once, adjust the x-die to that case length and no need to trim those cases any more. I keep all my brass sorted by whether they have ever been trimmed to 1.750" (for .223) or not. Anything in doubt is sent through the trimmer to make sure and then put into the X-die ready pile.

 

[Hokie_PhD]

My first 5 years of reloading I never heard of cleaning brass ....but that was a long time ago!!

CC

When I started I couldn’t afford a tumbler so I did a Google search on cleaning the brass. What I learned was that tumbling the brass to like new shineiness is a fairly new phenomena. I also found other options such as washing it to get the dirt and grit off.

The reality is that super shiny brass is nice but not required. As long as no unturned powder, dirt etc is in the brass then it’s good to go.

 

[readyeddy]

I tried dry tumbling to remove the lube, but the media got stuck in the flash hole. I had to use a bamboo barbecue stick to clear the media. Now I just wipe each case a paper towel.

Make sure you label your brass when you complete a stage. I'll throw a little note into the zip loc bag that says "fired 3x need to resize" or "fired 2x ready to prime" or "fired 2x ready to trim". Otherwise all the zip loc bags with brass look the same.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

When using Imperial Sizing Wax there is no need to tumble the brass, just a quick wipe with a rag prosper towel and you're good.

If you tumble with the right size media you won't need to worry about the flash holes clogging.

 

[GT1]

For many decades there were no tumblers, dry or wet.
Tumblers were introduced in to reloading to separate people from their money, it works great.

Brass shoots fine without ever being tumbled, it does need to be clean though, and that costs almost nothing(soapy water and a rinse, let dry).

 

[lightman]

My process changes depending if I'm loading my brass or range pick up brass (how dirty it is) and whether I'm going to load it or store it.

1. Return home and dump it into a plastic jug of soapy water and shake it up good, rinse and dry
2. Resize
3. Trim and other case prep
4. Tumble
5. Prime and load

If its pretty grubby I'll tumble it first but it only needs to be clean to resize, not polished. If I'm shooting something where the brass does not hit the ground I'll skip the wash job. If I'm going to store it away I'll deprime it rather than resize it, tumble it and leave the case prep for whenever I load it.

As you can see, there are several methods and they all work. Experiment until you find a routine that works for you.