I bought a new S&W; don’t hate me.

I guess I'll be the outlier, and share my personal opinion. I'm not a fan of the new 66 and 69 Smiths. They just scream budget Taurus revolvers to me. The Taurus grade bead blast finish, the black cylinder release, ejector rod, trigger, and hammer, and I'm not really a fan of the cost savings (that aren't passed to the consumer) 2 peice barrel.
Well, not to be argumentative, I have no idea what it might cost to use a regular one piece barrel. For all I know, using a one piece barrel might make the cost of the gun a lot higher than it is now.
 
That's a good looking gun.

Any issues with the barrel shroud being "canted?" The canted-shroud thing is the big issue that worries me about any of the new Smith and Wesson revolvers.
W.E.G., as a wildass guess, I'm thinking the shroud was adopted to solve the 'canting' issue. Have had several one piece barrels out of index, which really aggravates me. Supposedly, the barrels are torqued to a specific standard, and, if that lets them off by a little, so be it. I clamp the barrel in a leather jawed vise, and stick a hammer handle through the cylinder window....which some folks question.
I'm guessing the shrouds index on the frame, and then the barrel is torqued down inside the shroud. I only have one shroud Smith, and it is in perfect index.
Moon
 
I'm guessing the shrouds index on the frame, and then the barrel is torqued down inside the shroud. I only have one shroud Smith, and it is in perfect index.

The threads on the 1-piece barrel (and frame) have to be "just so", so that when installed, the cylinder gap is correct, tension is correct and the front sight aligns correctly (i.e., isn't canted).

S&W's 2-piece design uses an inner barrel which is screwed in with a mandrel. It's got a T-shaped flange on the muzzle end that holds an outer shroud in place. The shroud is placed on the frame with indexing tabs. Much less fuss about getting the threads "just so", and the sights canted. Less torque strain on the forcing cone too, so many report an accuracy improvement.

I'm thinking the shroud was adopted to solve the 'canting' issue

AFAIK, the 2-piece design was developed for the .500mag. The strain on the forcing cone would be too much for a torqued-in 1-piece barrel, so they came up with the 2-piece design. It worked well, and my guess is that S&W saw it as a good (functional and economic) general advance.
 
I've owned several Smith and Wesson's with the lock and have never found it to be a big deal. (shrugs) Do I wish they didn't have it? Sure. I'll never use it, but it's here, apparently to stay for a while (it's been here about twenty years now) anyway. I worry almost as much about it malfunctioning as I do about being hit by a steamship leaving home this morning.

And yes, I've got a Model 29-10 with "the Lock." One thing I like about "lock guns" is they're usually a lot less expensive used, than their non-lock counterparts.

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The other side.

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All I ever shoot in it is 44 Specials, but paper targets don't take a lot of killing and my old arthritic hands don't care for a lot of recoil these days.
Beautiful Model 29. I think the locks on the N frames are a lot less offensive than on the K frames because they still retain the same deep slope by the hammer that the Ks loose w/lock. That said, the lightly used Model 64-8 w/2 piece barrel & dreaded lock I bought for $300 OTD is a great shooter.
 
I’ll just stick with my old 66 (dash nothing). Cheap old revolver but it makes a statement.
 

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I have two 64-8 .38 revolvers. They have MIM, the "Hillary Hole", and two piece barrels. One is 4", the other is 3". The 4" was and unissued security contract gun, and the 3" was re-imported from Europe and appeared unfired.

Both of them are great revolvers, and functionally as good as any of the classics, of which i have a number. I bought them based on price (both were under $400), and didn't expect to find them to be as good as they are.

Here they are getting their "nails" painted.
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vanfunk, Awesome, and a good write up. I have the 4.25" version. It's great but I really wanted the 2.75 and couldn't find it. I put a trigger spring kit in it, Wilson Combat I think, and polished things. It is unbelievable in DA but still just typical nice S&W in SA. I want a blanking plug for the IL but I don't want to leave a gap next to the hammer if the lock is removed.

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Good chat, guys. I love those 64’s - the definition of rugged elegance. Do they shoot to point of aim? Heyboy, lovely 66! Funny, I’ve been thinking of getting the 4.25” version too, to complement my 2.75”.
 
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