I sent the Pietta Remmie back to DGW and ordered the Ruger Old Army (only adjustable sights model available for now)
Fit and finish is completely different, not to mention metallurgy. The hammer and action is extremely smooth and slick. The Ruger is a stainless steel model, which even adds more to the aesthetics as well as the performance.
In order to ensure that metal wear upon long term use is kept to a minimum, the first thing I did after visually inspecting the gun is to completely disassemble the gun, all the way down to the tiniest screw and plunger. Using a cotton "G.I." patch ordered from DGW, I wiped all the parts down with Birchwood Casey SHEATH to get all the small flakes of dust and metal particles left over from machining and final finishing. (They show up as little black flakes and specks on the cloth) After everything is wiped down and cleaned, the parts are put back in place and their corresponding screws installed. Once that step is finished, I ran a generous amount of SHEATH through everything, including using a Q-tip to wipe down the mainspring and the mainspring/hammer strut.
Here is a few things I learned from this experience and want to share with any other Ruger owner:
1.
The screws that hold the entire revolver in place, including the ones that hold the grip frame to the cylinder frame, is installed by the factory with a heavy torque. You might have trouble removing the screws if this is your first time disassembling the gun. However, I took my time, wrapped a piece of cloth upon the screwdriver handle, and with a strong, and steady amount of counter-torque, but not too strong, carefully removed the screws. Once my thorough cleaning and lubrication is over and it is time for me to put the revolver back to one piece, I wiped down every screw-hole with a Q-tip soaked with SHEATH, then place a couple drops of SHEATH on every screw, and screw them back in. When replacing the screws, there is no need to over-tighten...just tighten them to a reasonable level. Once the Ruger owner makes it past this first time disassembly nice and sound, it will be a total ease for him to disassemble and reassemble the gun at later times. ONCE AGAIN, BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING TIGHT SCREWS. TAKE YOUR TIME, CLEANING AND MAINTAINING GUNS IS SUPPOSED TO BE FUN.
2. The internal parts from the tiniest screw and sping to the hammer and trigger is extremely robust and is manufactured to the standards of industrial machinery and engines, however, that does not mean that the shooter can be careless when cocking and firing. Like the Italian Remington and Colt clones, there will be weaknesses associated with parts such as the cylinder hand and cylinder latch. On the Ruger Old Army, if the shooter is careful, these parts will last much longer than the parts on the Italian clones, however, basic knowledge of physics tell me that these high contact, high tension surfaces between the hand and cylinder are subject to wear over time, and I already ordered a set of spare parts to keep in my Ruger inventory just in case I need them in the future. Cocking slowly and carefully will attribute to the longevity of these high tension parts. That is the reason why I coat every single metal surface in the Ruger with SHEATH, to ensure maximum lubrication and reduce friction between said components. Try to avoid rapid cocking. Playing cowboy may be fun but is tough on revolver action components over time.
3. Even though Ruger literature claims that the piece can be dry-fired, I choose NEVER to dry-fire my gun, because basic physics tell me that two metals of the same alloy and construction as it is on the nipple and hammer surface, striking each other will inadvertently lead to pits and peens over time. If I ever have to practice cocking and trigger pull without any ammunition, I will place percussion caps on the nipples and fire the caps only. Percussion caps=snap caps for percussion firearms, that is, as long as you do not forget to clean the chambers and nipples after using them, to clear out any fouling that may be deposited by the explosion of the caps.
4. It is easy to remove the cylinder from the cylinder frame, you must turn cylinder clockwise to free it from the protruding hand. However, when re-installing the cylinder back into the gun, BE VERY CAREFUL not to accidentally bang the cylinder against the protruding hand. First, insert the cylinder into frame to the point when the protruding hand fits into one of the safety recesses between the chambers. Then, slowly and carefully turn clockwise and at the same time, gently nudge the cylinder until it clicks into place. once it clicks into place, turn it clockwise slowly to make sure the hand is connected with the cylinder. After that, you are free to install the base pin and rammer assembly.
5.It is very practical and fun to make an "accessory kit" just for your Ruger. I built mine even before I got the gun. Inside the kit, make sure you have 3 screwdrivers, small, medium, and large, for the corresponding screws on the firearm. A can or two of Birchwood Casey SHEATH, a can or two of Birchwood Casey GUNSTOCK WAX. A pack of Q-tips, a pack of cotton "G.I." cleaning patches. A piece of large cloth to spread over your table surface when you are working on the gun. A magnifying glass, a bright LED flashlight to serve as a bore-light, and the light comes in handly when using it to study small parts in detail with the magnifyling glass.
6. I just found out that I am completely illiterate when it comes to Ipods and MP3 players and any other sort of high tech gadgets. It took me a pretty embarrassing half-hour playing around with one of my co-worker's Sidekick, just to learn how all the buttons worked. I still don't know how to use a digital camera, print pictures out of one, or store pictures on an "SD Card" or whatever they call it..........I don't know how to "add memory" on a computer or add an "extra hard drive".........................................yet.............I am able to completely disassemble a Ruger revolver, or any revolver as a matter of fact to the tiniest screw and spring, do the work that needs to be done, and put the whole thing back together without a single hitch.........and I haven't read too much gunsmithing books and tutorials, yet I feel comfortable and completely confident working on any firearm............................I think I will be extremely proud to be called a "Redneck"even though I was born in New York City and lived in NYC my whole life and is still living in NYC. On the surface, I appear to anyone as a typical geeky Chinese kid.
7. I will be getting another Ruger Old Army soon, so that I can have a matching pair. After that, I will set my eyes upon a Ruger Super Blackhawk.........Yes I love big bore sixguns.
8.............Aaaand......I found out that I rarely have a social life, speaking of the fact that I can turn the basic procedures of cleaning and lubricating a revolver into a full blown college essay
I hope everybody here enjoys reading this, and those who haven't acquired a Ruger Old Army yet will one day try it out for themselves. I haven't fired mine yet. I am going to purchase another Ruger, then get two matching stainless steel Conversion cylinders chambered in .45 LC.
Fit and finish is completely different, not to mention metallurgy. The hammer and action is extremely smooth and slick. The Ruger is a stainless steel model, which even adds more to the aesthetics as well as the performance.
In order to ensure that metal wear upon long term use is kept to a minimum, the first thing I did after visually inspecting the gun is to completely disassemble the gun, all the way down to the tiniest screw and plunger. Using a cotton "G.I." patch ordered from DGW, I wiped all the parts down with Birchwood Casey SHEATH to get all the small flakes of dust and metal particles left over from machining and final finishing. (They show up as little black flakes and specks on the cloth) After everything is wiped down and cleaned, the parts are put back in place and their corresponding screws installed. Once that step is finished, I ran a generous amount of SHEATH through everything, including using a Q-tip to wipe down the mainspring and the mainspring/hammer strut.
Here is a few things I learned from this experience and want to share with any other Ruger owner:
1.
The screws that hold the entire revolver in place, including the ones that hold the grip frame to the cylinder frame, is installed by the factory with a heavy torque. You might have trouble removing the screws if this is your first time disassembling the gun. However, I took my time, wrapped a piece of cloth upon the screwdriver handle, and with a strong, and steady amount of counter-torque, but not too strong, carefully removed the screws. Once my thorough cleaning and lubrication is over and it is time for me to put the revolver back to one piece, I wiped down every screw-hole with a Q-tip soaked with SHEATH, then place a couple drops of SHEATH on every screw, and screw them back in. When replacing the screws, there is no need to over-tighten...just tighten them to a reasonable level. Once the Ruger owner makes it past this first time disassembly nice and sound, it will be a total ease for him to disassemble and reassemble the gun at later times. ONCE AGAIN, BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING TIGHT SCREWS. TAKE YOUR TIME, CLEANING AND MAINTAINING GUNS IS SUPPOSED TO BE FUN.2.
The internal parts from the tiniest screw and sping to the hammer and trigger is extremely robust and is manufactured to the standards of industrial machinery and engines, however, that does not mean that the shooter can be careless when cocking and firing. Like the Italian Remington and Colt clones, there will be weaknesses associated with parts such as the cylinder hand and cylinder latch. On the Ruger Old Army, if the shooter is careful, these parts will last much longer than the parts on the Italian clones, however, basic knowledge of physics tell me that these high contact, high tension surfaces between the hand and cylinder are subject to wear over time, and I already ordered a set of spare parts to keep in my Ruger inventory just in case I need them in the future. Cocking slowly and carefully will attribute to the longevity of these high tension parts. That is the reason why I coat every single metal surface in the Ruger with SHEATH, to ensure maximum lubrication and reduce friction between said components. Try to avoid rapid cocking. Playing cowboy may be fun but is tough on revolver action components over time.3.
Even though Ruger literature claims that the piece can be dry-fired, I choose NEVER to dry-fire my gun, because basic physics tell me that two metals of the same alloy and construction as it is on the nipple and hammer surface, striking each other will inadvertently lead to pits and peens over time. If I ever have to practice cocking and trigger pull without any ammunition, I will place percussion caps on the nipples and fire the caps only. Percussion caps=snap caps for percussion firearms, that is, as long as you do not forget to clean the chambers and nipples after using them, to clear out any fouling that may be deposited by the explosion of the caps.4.
It is easy to remove the cylinder from the cylinder frame, you must turn cylinder clockwise to free it from the protruding hand. However, when re-installing the cylinder back into the gun, BE VERY CAREFUL not to accidentally bang the cylinder against the protruding hand. First, insert the cylinder into frame to the point when the protruding hand fits into one of the safety recesses between the chambers. Then, slowly and carefully turn clockwise and at the same time, gently nudge the cylinder until it clicks into place. once it clicks into place, turn it clockwise slowly to make sure the hand is connected with the cylinder. After that, you are free to install the base pin and rammer assembly.5.
It is very practical and fun to make an "accessory kit" just for your Ruger. I built mine even before I got the gun. Inside the kit, make sure you have 3 screwdrivers, small, medium, and large, for the corresponding screws on the firearm. A can or two of Birchwood Casey SHEATH, a can or two of Birchwood Casey GUNSTOCK WAX. A pack of Q-tips, a pack of cotton "G.I." cleaning patches. A piece of large cloth to spread over your table surface when you are working on the gun. A magnifying glass, a bright LED flashlight to serve as a bore-light, and the light comes in handly when using it to study small parts in detail with the magnifyling glass.6.
I just found out that I am completely illiterate when it comes to Ipods and MP3 players and any other sort of high tech gadgets. It took me a pretty embarrassing half-hour playing around with one of my co-worker's Sidekick, just to learn how all the buttons worked. I still don't know how to use a digital camera, print pictures out of one, or store pictures on an "SD Card" or whatever they call it..........I don't know how to "add memory" on a computer or add an "extra hard drive".........................................yet.............I am able to completely disassemble a Ruger revolver, or any revolver as a matter of fact to the tiniest screw and spring, do the work that needs to be done, and put the whole thing back together without a single hitch.........and I haven't read too much gunsmithing books and tutorials, yet I feel comfortable and completely confident working on any firearm............................I think I will be extremely proud to be called a "Redneck"even though I was born in New York City and lived in NYC my whole life and is still living in NYC. On the surface, I appear to anyone as a typical geeky Chinese kid.7.
I will be getting another Ruger Old Army soon, so that I can have a matching pair. After that, I will set my eyes upon a Ruger Super Blackhawk.........Yes I love big bore sixguns.8.
............Aaaand......I found out that I rarely have a social life, speaking of the fact that I can turn the basic procedures of cleaning and lubricating a revolver into a full blown college essayI hope everybody here enjoys reading this, and those who haven't acquired a Ruger Old Army yet will one day try it out for themselves. I haven't fired mine yet. I am going to purchase another Ruger, then get two matching stainless steel Conversion cylinders chambered in .45 LC.
