I has a question but first I need to brag...............

[Jeff62]

UPS delivered my Pedersoli 10 ga double tonight. I plan to see how it patterns loaded with horse shoes and log chain. I need some advice on patched ball for the cylinder barrel. Is .760 the size to shoot? I know patch thickness choice can accommodate various ball sizes. I like to make my own so mold recommendations are most welcome.
This gun is beautiful.

 

[PapaG]

Bore size minus two times the thickness of the patch to start. I.e. if the bore measures .775 (standard 10 gauge cylinder bore size) and you want to use a .015" pillow ticking patch, then try a .745" ball. Adjust for tightness.
If you shoot patched balls out of it, check load in other barrel after shooting to be sure it hasn't come unseated from the recoil. (remove cap before checking)

 

[arcticap]

The older Pedersoli doubles had number markings on the breech end of the barrels, facing the stock.
The numbers indicate the bore diameter of each barrel in millimeters.
Does your gun have these numbers stamped? --->>> --->>> https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600554&highlight=pedersoli&page=2

Also next to the rib, there should be stars that indicate the choke constriction of each muzzle.

Someone was asked the same question on the MLF, and one poster recommended to start with a .750 ball for reasons unknown.
Perhaps because they didn't know the exact bore diameter of the gun and the markings. --->>> https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/10-gage-ball-size.123129/

Do you think that you will be able to shoot patched balls out of each barrel?
What's the choke constriction of the second barrel?

I see that Track of the Wolf sells both size balls, .750 and .760.
Perhaps you can load a different size ball in each barrel depending on the information that the bore diameter markings provide, if they're present.
Also measure each muzzle.

Eastern Maine Shooting Supplies manufactures a variety of large patches and bulk patch material to experiment with.
Plus large wool wads and cleaning accessories. --->>> https://www.emshootingsupplies.com/#/

You're new gun looks beautiful!

 

[Jeff62]

Answering questions
The right barrel measures .773 the left .755

I don’t see numbers, other than proof marks, or stars.

I appreciate the comments and advice.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I shoot round balls out of my Brown Bess, and a black-powder, 12gauge breech loading double hammer gun. I've experimented quite a bit. Shooting ball from a smooth bore is "different" than a rifle. I've got best results with thick patches. Denim works well. A "chewed" ball in a thick patch has shown great promise in my Bess. I'd certainly not go thinner than .023". I shoot .690" balls in my Bess, which is about I .735" bore, but I forget the exact bore size. Also, in my experience, heavy loads will be more accurate than light loads. For best ball accuracy in my Bess, I use 140 grains of fg.

With a ML, choke is not that important. If you can load it down the barrel reasonably easy, it will come out without blowing the choke. In my breech loader of course, I have to make sure the ball will pass through both barrels. If I were to make a tight load for my right barrel, it would not be good to fire it in my choke barrel. But that's a whole other animal with no patches involved. I shoot .690" in the breech loader also, and they are accurate. As you know, a 12gauge is around .720" so tight fitting balls is not an absolute requirement, as it would be in a rifle.

Some get good results shooting "bare ball", with wadding or a wad to hold the ball in place. I've never tried bare-ball, although my breechloading shells shoot a "bare ball" rather than being patched. But again, whole other animal.

What size ball and patching will work well in your double is anyone's guess, you'll just have to make a good educated guess, and go from there through experimentation. My advise though is to go small on the ball, and thick on the patch.

Rather than working up two ball sizes for each barrel, I think the best utility when loading a double with ball is to load shot in one barrel, and ball in the other. That way you can be loaded for mouse to moose. Or perhaps a ball in one barrel, and a handful of .375" balls in the other. !!!! However, it would make sense to me to develope the load for the tighter choked barrel, so that it can be used in both barrels.

 

[arcticap]

Answering questions
The right barrel measures .773 the left .755

I don’t see numbers, other than proof marks, or stars.

I appreciate the comments and advice.

The method to determine the patch and ball combination can be subjective because the patch will compress when started past the muzzle.
Some folks like a smaller ball with a thicker patch, while others like a larger ball with a thinner patch.
And then it's possible to load a bare ball sandwiched between cards and wads, or a combination of both patches and wads.

The patch adds double its thickness to the ball diameter, but it will be compressed when loaded at the muzzle probably by half or more.

Smoothbore "rifles" often get best accuracy from an extremely tight ball & patch combination.
But then there can also be consideration for fouling and swabbing between shots.

If a person has a variety of patch sizes then 2 different patch thicknesses can be combined to obtain the right amount of firm resistance in the bore.
The purpose of patches and wadding is to seal off the hot gases in order to get consistent velocity & results if possible.

A bare ball can work when sandwiched in between wads, but may work better with progressively thicker patches.
.005 patches can be handy for adding slightly more resistance to an otherwise loose ball or combination.

By having .005, .010, .015, .018 pillow ticking, and .020 patches on hand, a person can cover all of the bases for experimenting.
It's nice to have commercial patches with a tight weave so that the patch compression is consistent, without any burning.

Let's say you come across some .69 or .715 balls somewhere and want to try them out.
Then you're all set with patching.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I will just add, that if you start out with a smaller ball, you can adjust by going to thicker patches. You can try a variety of patch thickness, lube, powder charges etc. before deciding to go to a larger ball. Also, if you "chew" the ball, that will add diameter. If you start with a larger ball and thin patch, there's "no where to go" as you can't make the ball smaller. Just a thought.

I don't know about smooth bore rifles, but my experience with muskets and shotguns says: "small ball, thick patch". Can't speak to smoothbore rifles. (what a contradiction in terms!) However, a very tight fit in a smoothbore won't give many repeat shots. For hunting, I prefer/expect/want to get three to four shots out of the gun before I have to wipe the bore. With a VERY tight ball and thin patch combo, one might not even get a second shot without much cursing, grunting and groaning, and pounding on the ramrod and ball.

 

[Jeff62]

Papa G, Articap, and Ugly Sauce, you boys saved me about a pound of powder and lead shooting wrong and hopefully figuring it out. Thank you Good Sirs

 

[792mauser]

In my 12 ga double. The barrels are well regulated parallel.
For ball loads: Remington #10 cap, 100gr 3F, card, cushion, scrap rags from work patched ball (.715") then over card.
Make sure it is tightly patched and lubed well.

Surprised looks on people's faces when I rain giant chunks of lead all around the 200 yard steel and hit it occasionally. Most the rangemasters think its a hoot.

Slam the rod down on the other barrel before firing it to be sure it hasn't moved.