Sistema1927
Member
I follow the KISS principle:
1. Disassemble only as much as required, normally no more than a field strip.
2. Use a boresnake with a couple of drops of CLP or FP10 to clean the barrel and revolver cylinders.
3. Use an old toothbrush with a drop of CLP or FP10 to remove crud wherever you can reach.
4. Use wood handled cotton swabs with a drop of CLP or FP10 to get into other crevices, nooks and crannies.
5. Lubricate the proper places with CLP or FP10 (see a pattern here?)
6. Wipe all metal down with a rag that has soaked up enough CLP or FP10.
The only time that I vary from this routine is when cleaning stainless weapons, and then I use MPro7 and sometimes some Flitz to clean the cylinder face of revolvers.
I have been using this technique ever since boresnakes became available, and before that did the same except that I used bore mops, brushes and patches. I have used CLP ever since discovering it while in the military in the early 80's, and have recently found FP10 to be a little bit better in the lubrication department. The only time that I do any type of detail strip is if I am replacing parts (i.e. customizing a 1911). I haven't had any failures, and I haven't experienced any significant copper fouling or leading, especially if I clean when the weapon is still warm. I almost always run a boresnake through the hot bore prior to leaving the range.
1. Disassemble only as much as required, normally no more than a field strip.
2. Use a boresnake with a couple of drops of CLP or FP10 to clean the barrel and revolver cylinders.
3. Use an old toothbrush with a drop of CLP or FP10 to remove crud wherever you can reach.
4. Use wood handled cotton swabs with a drop of CLP or FP10 to get into other crevices, nooks and crannies.
5. Lubricate the proper places with CLP or FP10 (see a pattern here?)
6. Wipe all metal down with a rag that has soaked up enough CLP or FP10.
The only time that I vary from this routine is when cleaning stainless weapons, and then I use MPro7 and sometimes some Flitz to clean the cylinder face of revolvers.
I have been using this technique ever since boresnakes became available, and before that did the same except that I used bore mops, brushes and patches. I have used CLP ever since discovering it while in the military in the early 80's, and have recently found FP10 to be a little bit better in the lubrication department. The only time that I do any type of detail strip is if I am replacing parts (i.e. customizing a 1911). I haven't had any failures, and I haven't experienced any significant copper fouling or leading, especially if I clean when the weapon is still warm. I almost always run a boresnake through the hot bore prior to leaving the range.
