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I have never reloaded .223 or any rifle caliber

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I load pistol calibers in 32, 380, 9mm, 38, 357, and .45 and have never had a problem. I find it simple and easy if one is meticulous and fastidious which I am in the extreme...even calming and enjoyable on a single stage press using Unique which I weigh each and every charge 'cause it meters "not so well".

I'm researching rifles and *really! would like an AR-15 but I'm intimidated about loading .223 because of the extra procedures...mostly because I have never done it nor been shown how.

Can you guys who load .223 give me some perspective? Is it that much harder or will my skills from loading tens of thousands of rounds of pistol calibers set the stage if I get the requisite tools?

Thanks in advance!

VooDoo
 
You will do fine.

There are more steps in the process, but it really is not more difficult.

The largest issue is going to be full length resizing which you will need to do every time if shooting an AR15/M4. Lubing is the trick here. The brass must be lubed to resize.

Lots of resources out there.

RMD
 
The big difference switching from straight wall pistol to bottleneck rifle is case prep.

Inspect/tumble
Lube
Full length resize (buy a case gauge and use it to set your die)
clean off lube
measure length, trim as necessary then chamfer/deburr
inspect primer pocket, swage/ream crimped pockets

Use same procedure as straight wall cases to prime, charge, seat bullet, and taper crimp.
 
Well I probably haven't made many new friends with my comments about the AR 15 rifles, but I maintain my reservations when it comes to civilians at large having unrestricted use/ownership of them. Seems to me that the main advantage to a semi-auto is quick recovery time and the ability to zero in quickly as a result.

Reloading for a bolt is made much easier and more consistent by the fact that you can get by with resizing the neck only. And you can seat the bullet close to the rifling, or into it. Good luck to you, whatever you decide on.
 
Since you have a bunch of experience on the press, it shouldn't really be that bad adding .223 to the table.

Unless you run into a unusually tight chamber, a standard FL die will work just fine. Resize, and then chamber check before moving on to the next steps.

Don't get caught up in chasing the lands, this is not necessary with AL bottle neck. Just seat to a length that feeds well and fits your magazine. Making a dummy round can help to evaluate fit and feed.

And if your using mil brass, you'll need to remove the crimped primer pockets.

Trim any brass that exceeds max, or trim them all, as I do.

GS
 
Brass prep is the biggest challenge compared to reloading pistol.

There are wonderful speed up tool options for bottleneck brass prep,
the volume of reloading per time period will determine if they are worth the investment.

I eventually switching to using:

Spray lubes in lube racks
carbide neck expander in dies
Small base dies
high volume power trimmer/chamfer (Giraud).
Power drive for primer pocket cleaner/uniformer

Probably above say 1000 rds of rifle cartridges per year production you'll want to look at all the bells and whistles. Below that you can go with the cheaper alternatives.

If you're regular feeding an AR15 pattern rifle (or some other semi-auto long gun) you'll be above 1000 rd/yr production.
 
Reloading 223 Remington is really no different than handgun, just a few different steps.

The most simple method, reloading rifle cases uses a two die set, one that resizes and expands the mouth at the same step and then the seating die. Generally speaking, if you set up the seating die as the die instruction say, your cases will fit your rifle.

Rifle cases need to lubricated when resizing, both inside the case mouth and the outside. This is true even if you get a carbide sizer die. Carbide rifle sizer dies are really made for the high volume reloader who reloads enough to wear out a steel die. Unlike Luke Skywalker and his reward money, we cannot imagine what alot of cases would be that would wear out a steel sizer die.

Also, you will want some method to clean the lubricant off the cases.

Bottle neck rifle cases need to be trimmed periodically. The act of shooting and then resizing tends to make them grow. Trimming is done after resizing. So, some type of trimming system is required along with a set of calipers for measuring the case and setting up the trimmer. Also, a debur/chamfer tool is handy for cleaning the flash off the trimmed case mouth and a little chamfer inside the case mouth helps with bullet seating.

You might want to get a case gauge. They measure shoulder position and overall length but they are not chamber gauges. Most commercially available case gauges are cut generously in the body diameter dimension. They are handy tools. I reloaded for decades without one though.

Charging the case is similar to hand gun although the small neck of the 223 Remington can make using stick powders a bit more difficult. Bridging in the drop tube is the main problem with stick powders. Of course, a scale and some kind of powder delivery system will be required for charging the case.

Seating the bullet is essentially the same although there is generally no flare on a rifle case. Many folks do not crimp their rifle ammunition but there are many different opinions on the subject.

There are many tools and techniques that can be done while reloading rifle cases that can make small, incremental improvements in accuracy and consistency. But, the above is the basics for making good ammunition. Most hard bound reloading manuals should have a section on reloading rifle cases.

Hope this helps.
 
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The way I do things, there is only one extra step with bottleneck rifle cartridges, and that's trimming.

Tumble - inspect - lube - size - tumble again (much shorter duration to get the lube off) - measure / trim if required - load.

The El Cheapo Lee trimmers have been working for me.
 
The step I dislike the most in all of reloading is trimming cases. Unfortunately it's just something you have to deal with reloading bottle necked rifle.
 
Be sure to get a CASE GAGE.

Not an overall length gage.

A CASE GAGE.

This is the device that measures the distance from the base of the cartridge to the shoulder.
This is the most overlooked/neglected tool for people who are graduating from pistol-loading to rifle-loading.
You must buy a dedicated tool for the caliber. You can't use a vernier caliper, or a micrometer, or a tape-measure.
 
The step I dislike the most in all of reloading is trimming cases. Unfortunately it's just something you have to deal with reloading bottle necked rifle.

You and me both. There are all sorts of expensive doodads that "make it easier", but it is still a PITA.

RMD
 
Well I probably haven't made many new friends with my comments about the AR 15 rifles, but I maintain my reservations when it comes to civilians at large having unrestricted use/ownership of them. Seems to me that the main advantage to a semi-auto is quick recovery time and the ability to zero in quickly as a result.

Where did this come from?

I thought we were talking rifle reloading, not gun control?

RMD
 
For someone who is experienced in loading for handguns, I'll keep it short for the additional steps for rifle loading:

1. Remove primer crimp from Mil brass.
2. Lube entire exterior and inside case neck.
3. Trim brass after re-sizing.

For the AR-15, get yourself a brass catcher. Those cheap catchers you strap on the fore grip work well.
 
It's really not that bad. Yes, there are more steps, and a couple more things to know, but it isn't hard. Buy a case gauge, a trimmer if you don't have one, a primer pocket reamer or swaging tool, and your set.

Go for it, and the AR too. :)
 
You guys are the best.... :)

I see an AR variant in my future this Summer as well as .223 components. My brother is a huge shooter of .223 and I started sourcing components last night. So, I'll have two guns to load for.

Another trick in the bag (being able to load .223) will be a good thing and I thank ya'll for the encouragement. I'm sure I'll have more questions when I start shooting the stuff...:D

VooDoo
 
1) Always crimp as a separate step. This prevents the common problem of pushing the shoulder out of spec.
2) Lube the inside of the neck properly when sizing. This prevents the common problem of pulling the shoulder out of spec.
3) Start out with commercial brass.
 
I'm not among the contingent who will state that reloading bottleneck rifle is just a bit more involved than pistols. It's not. But it's perfectly doable, if you want to do it. Lots of people wanting to move into centerfire rifles are starting with .223, which is a very good place to start. The cases are abundant, and pretty much as easy to reload as anything I've tried.
There are all kinds of good manuals out there that tell you what you have to do, and online resources like THR to help you iron out the kinks.

The things you must accept:

1. You're going to lube.

2. You're going to trim.

3. You're going to clean / tumble your brass.

4. If you use military brass, you're going to chamfer or swage primer pockets.

5. You MAY want to uniform primer pockets, ream necks, depending.

6. If you're reloading for a semiauto, you may want to consider going progressive. I found out that loading .223 to feed a semiauto on a Rock Chucker got really tedious in a hurry.
 
Im like you, just now going from pistol to bottleneck, after 8 months and a few thousand rounds of pistol. So far, I have to echo the above sentiments, that the prep is some major work. Trimming and lubing, and fiddling with crimped primers/cases adds a little to the workload.

The next session will be the first time I get to try actually loading some. Finally got everything prepped. I'll let ya know how it turns out whenever I can get to the press again.
 
From my experience, military (crimped) brass in a royal pain. Getting the crimp out is a tedious process. Use spray lube in a large ziplock bag and be sure to let it dry before you start sizing. Again from experience.
 
AFter reloading only .45acp for many years, I too started reloading .223. Beyond what you are already doing there are only two new things to consider:

1. The AR is pretty particular about case dimensions. Get a case gauge and using to set up the sizing die. I'm partial to Dillon's case gauge.

2. Depending upon where you acquire your brass, the primer pockets may or may not be crimped. I was having a helluva time seating primers until I learned that milsurp brass has crimped primers. I have the Dillon Super Swage 600 for removing primer crimps.
 
I'm used to lubing and all that....I lube all my pistol brass and used to have steel (not carbide) dies so I'm real familiar with lubing and all that. IThe main reason I was intimidated was the case dimensions but I am very finicky and exact. With good case gauges and such I'll be OK.

I intend to buy brass so I won't have to deal with crimped primers and all that stuff.

If I run into trouble, I know I get get back on track here at THR....dang good reloading forum this one. :cool:

VooDoo
 
I would add a couple of things. I highly recommend using Imperial sizing wax, and motor mica for lubricating. If you apply a little wax on your fingers, then take tge case mouth and dip it in the dry white powder, then run the mouth on a brush, your resizing problems will be gone. Midway sells a little kit just for that. I also recommend that you use a primer pocket uniformer, and also recommend a Lee factory crimp die over a taper crimp die.
 
Some commercial .223 brass will have crimped primer pockets. Federal being one headstamp that does have crimped pockets. Federal brass also seems to be under 1.75 on a length as well.
Different head stamps have different thicknesses, RP seems to be the thinnest, PMP is the thickest I have seen for the commercial brass. (This doesn't matter a lot unless you are loading compressed loads or looking for absolute maximum accuracy and long ranges)
5.56 brass is a little thicker so for the same velocities you will use less powder compared to commercial brass. I put all of the 5.56 brass that I pick up in a bucket to save to make .300 blk brass.
 
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