I have sinned, I cleaned my 22LR today.

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I’ve always focused on consistency above all else with rimfire. Butch’s Bore shine on a patch with a push jag to clean the barrel, then a dry patch, wet, dry. Shoot 2 rounds per inch of barrel (because all mine are duffer grade rifles) to lay down wax, then check groups again.

I may say my rimfires are “clean” but they aren’t good enough to eat off of. Whatever routine is chosen, and I’ve dabbled considerably over the years, the above gives me very acceptable results.
 
I didn't mention it in the other thread about cleaning 22s, but I've always cleaned my 22 rifles since I was 11 or 12... following my dad's example, who was a WWII and Korean War vet. My first was a Winchester 190 semi-auto. Decades later I finally bought a 10/22 and I've always cleaned it too. I still have them both... very reliable, accurate and fun to shoot.
 
A couple of decades ago I got a very good price on a Marlin 39A Mountie that apparently had never been cleaned. Following directions in J.B. Wood "Troubleshooting Your Rifle and Shotgun" and "The NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly" I disassembled it.

The relief cuts in the receiver in the area of the bolt head & extractor were full of packed fouling as was the firing pin channel in the bolt. The magazine cut-off recess was packed with fouling and definitely would jam the cartridge carrier with .22 Short and .22 long cartridges.

By serial number number that 39A Mountie left the factory 1964, I bought it Oct 2000, and I'd bet the action had never been taken down and cleaned. There was some light rust pits on the receiver where you would grip the gun one hand carry. So I suspect 30 odd years of use til it started to jam.

Thoroughly cleaned in the action and bore, reassembled according to J.B. Wood's instructions, it worked great and shot well. And has continued to do well.

Normally it does not need that detailed kind of cleaning. I can shoot it off and on over the year and basically after each range session just wipe the steel exterior parts with a lightly oiled rag and swipe the fouling off the muzzle end.

I think the sin lies in NOT cleaning a .22 at least once a year. For you NEVER cleaners, recognize the error of your ways, repent, reform, resolve to sin no more!
 
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I have a 22 cal bore snake that does not have a brush integrated that I use for quick cleaning/oil if I worry water or similar might having gotten in the barrel.
I do the same. I need to check for loss of accuracy after a snake runs through it.
But I've got to finish a contract in OK then start a new job in MO on Monday. It's going to be a month before I even pull a trigger again.
 
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An acceptable discussion in this thread in addition to 22LR cleaning/not-cleaning would be suggestion stocks/chassis for a 10/22. KRG's chassis is leading right now but I am open to other suggestions. I like a long length of pull. 14.5-inches plus if possible. Free floated firearm and MLOK or Arca Swiss attachment on the firearm for bipod and similar attachments.
 
After bragging in the 22LR cleaning thread a week or two ago that I have not cleaned my 10/22 in nearly two decades I finally broke down and cleaned it, and did a nearly full tear down and rebuild . . . ]
Just because you do not have to clean your .22 after every outing, does not mean you should never clean your .22.

The report I cited on this subject done by the Army back in the 1960s, showed that while the first 10 or 20 rounds after cleaning changed the group size, the group sizes always returned to normal.

And, with an automatic rifle or pistol, the occasional cleaning will keep it reliable , you don't have to do the barrel.
 
Just because you do not have to clean your .22 after every outing, does not mean you should never clean your .22.

The report I cited on this subject done by the Army back in the 1960s, showed that while the first 10 or 20 rounds after cleaning changed the group size, the group sizes always returned to normal.

And, with an automatic rifle or pistol, the occasional cleaning will keep it reliable , you don't have to do the barrel.

Agreed, since I started shooting NRL22 late last summer I have, including this weekend's work, clean the action of my 10/22 thoroughly three times. The gun is 40+ years old and has existing in a handful of configurations since I got it. It had not been shot in a few years before I dug it out to try my hand at NRL22 competitions. After a range session or two I cleaned the action pretty well before going to my first match, I did not touch the barrel. When I replaced the fire-control earlier this spring since I had it apart the action got a thorough cleaning again the barrel did not since it was still shooting the same tight groups. The only reason I cleaned the barrel this time was since I was going to have it out of the receiver while tearing everything else down I had easy access to the chamber so I threw it in the vice and cleaned it.

I hesitate to post this picture as everyone will read it and judge but hey that is was the thread is for.

NCb7Aojl.jpg

Starting Top Left: A pushed with a coated one piece cleaning rod and plastic patch jag. Dry patch, two patches wet with CR-10, waited 10-15 minutes, two dry patches, wet CR-10 patch, waited 10-15 minutes, three dry patches, wet CR-10 patch, waited 10-15 minutes, four dry patches, Break-Free CLP patch, realized the crown was filthy cleaned it and then ran a dry patch to push any crown residue out (black ring on that patch), final Break-Free CLP patch. As you can see the patch were never filthy after the first dry patch. That was after 20+ years, and probably close to tens of thousand of rounds since the barrel was installed (and I bought it used) and I have never done more than pull a oiled patch through it after a wet hunt.
 
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You have given a good confession. Let your conscience be clean. Go forth and foul your barrel to normal, confirm your modifications are acceptable and accuracy is retained.

I must also confess. I have an Appleseed Project shoot scheduled this coming weekend and cleaned my 10/22 AND suppressor in preparation. Everything is cleaned and oiled and ready to go. I didn't brush the bore, but I did wet and dry patch. Does that count?
 
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Say what you want, I will continue to clean my barrels when accuracy drops off and to prevent rust and corrosion. We have extreme temp changes and high humidity at times.
 
But as I was saying, when my 10/22 gets dirty, I notice that the cartridge doesn't go into the chamber very well and can cause me to have to make sure the bolt is actually closed. I'd figure that you'd at least want to clean out the chamber of the barrel.
 
7DCE2C7E-46CE-4C39-BD1D-FB38F70BBA5A.png Not sure I’ve ever cleaned my 22lr Marlin. Figure someone has since the 70s, so why bother. Slicker action than any I’ve ever handled.
Had a Take down 10/22 and Tricked out 10/22 With aftermarket everything. Honestly- I benched em all and a savage bolt……
This old 39D with period correct Scope shot the best at 50 yards. Standard and Green tag CCI
Ammo
When the Apocalypse happens- I’d be using this very much for many things. Got about 5000 rounds of CCI to go with.

Just Joining in from a different perspective
 
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In general it appears I have done no major harm and at least for the groups shifting issue the free floating of the barrel seems to have helped it.

This is 10 consecutive 5-shot groups shot at 50 yards.

The first four shot with bipod front, small range bag under stock on a portable shooting bench.

The next two groups are shot with me twisting my Atlas bipod with left handed, in fact I twisted hard enough the sling stud mounted Picatinny rail twisted on the stock slightly.

The next two groups were shot with the bipod legs fully extended and folded forward parallel to the barrel and my game change bag under the very end of the bipod legs with a small rear bag at the back.

The final two groups were shot with the legs reversed and the bag under the ends and just ahead of the trigger guard and my left hand balled up under the knob of the grip.

Largest group was .74" (1.41 MOA), smallest group .30" (.57 MOA) with an average of .51" (.97 MOA).

I think free floating the barrel greatly reduce the effects of how the rifle is supported on POI shift, as expected. It does appear that the barrel no longer touching the hand guard changed barrel harmonics enough that is does not group as well with this ammo. I might have to try some other ammo (SK Standard + used for this test) or maybe one of the weighted barrel tuners. Before I free floated the barrel I would occasionally shoot sub .5 MOA groups at 50 yards and my average was closer to .7 MOA. Still I would rather have the slightly larger groups without the shift than the occasion really tight group but unexpected shifts depending on how I support the rifle. Gives me an excuse to try some new ammo too, assuming I can find some. :)
 
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