I KB'd my Colt Delta Elite! (This is gonna be LONG)

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critter

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I have a Colt Delta Elite in 10mm, got it used and is under one year in my care. It is the older version.

I am a reloader and have been for 35+ years, have reloaded for upwards of 20 calibers, ALWAYS use conservative loads and extreme care in reloading (I thought!) and had NEVER had a major problem UNTIL NOW. I'd like some insight into the cause(s).

Round #20 blew out the base of the case in the unsupported area, blew the innerds from the magazine (floorplate, spring, follower) and peppered my face enough to cause 3 bleeders (GLASSES PLEASE!). No other harm to me, the gun is fine (inspected by me, my gunsmith and supsequently cleaned, lubed and fired a variety of loads).

Here is how I did it. I read LOTS on the 10mm, saying it is very versatile, handling loads from .40 S&W level up to near .41 mag levels. SO---I loaded one batch of ammo using a 'fast' powder but not quite as fast as Bullseye & a 135 gr bullet. The load was a moderately heavy load for THE .40 S&W-DIRECTLY OFF THE WEB SITE FOR THE POWDER MANUFACTURER. (Was that my problem-the .40 load?) It should have been even milder in the larger case according to my reasoning. Loads using the SAME BULLET, SAME CASES, SAME PRIMERS and about 20% MORE Bullseye (than the KB load) are just fine in the same gun. Accuracy for the KB load was awful, recoil was quite mild.

After the KB, I picked up the brass and most of it was WAAAAY expanded and close to KB.

Here is what I know.

1. There WAS NOT a bullet stuck in the barrel at the previous shot. (It made a hole in the paper, no barrel swell, etc.)

2. Since the other cases showed high pressure too (by both swelling and flat primers), I know it was not a SINGLE case that was double loaded, etc. If one was, they all were.

3. I pulled bullets from other rounds in the batch and the powder charge weighed exactly what the powder manufacturer called for. No overloads were found here.

4. The brass was not a 'soft lot' as I used the same brass for other loads much heavier than the one that KB'd with NO excess expansion whatsoever. Same with all other components EXCEPT FOR THE POWDER CHARGE.

I have discontinued the use of that load (DUH!!) AND that powder altogether. I will continue to reload and shoot that gun as well as others. I would, however, like to know just what might have caused the KB that I experienced. I DO NOT think it was a stuck bullet, a powder overload, a too hot load (YEAH, IT WAS, OBVIOUSLY)-but not at least by the 'book', bad components.

I had one person mention that it might have been a 'detonation' and as I have read, there is a lot of disagreement on these. I have heard of them claimed in LARGE cases such as .44 mag, .45 Colt, etc with SMALL charges of SLOW powders. That MIGHT be an explanation for this as it was a .40 load in a 10 mm, but there is not THAT much difference in case size and the powder was a 'fast' one. I surely DO NOT KNOW the cause.

I would appreciate any of you experienced reloaders offering your suggestions as to an explanation for me as I REALLY do not want to do THAT again! Believe me, it IS NOT good for your nerves, concentration and subsequent sight pictures!!!!!

Thanks guys for your endurance and opinions!
 
Loading a 10mm with data for a .40? Is that what I'm reading?

If it is, I would say that's your problem.

A buddy blew up a model 19 (.357) several years ago using an ultra light target load for 38 in a 357 case. I don't pretend to understand the physics, but I know I have read that it has happened more than once.

Not to pick on you, and certainly don't want to start a fight, but what-ever possessed you to use load data for one cartridge in a different cartridge?

That's just asking for trouble.
 
I’m not sure this is your problem but when you loaded a 40 load in a 10mm case the powder expansion volume would not be the same as in a 40 case. Maybe the extra expansion volume effected the burn rate enough to make the bullet start to move then kind of stop (maybe by the lands) or slow just enough before the powder really got up to speed creating what you’re experiencing.
 
First a moment of silence for a fallen 10mm ;)

Now I'm a noob to reloading but is it common to keep shooting a load that is showing signs of overpressure? It seems like 20 shots is a lot if they're looking too hot. Anyway I'd be interested in hearing the load data and maybe seeing what a variety of books suggest for a similar load.
 
Maybe not the problem, but my dad used to keep brass and reload it way too many times!

Even though the loads were usually mild, after however many reloads he would have a case failure, usually involving the base coming off the case, and the case itself stuck in the chamber.

Maybe the cases have been reloaded too many times?
 
When I see mention of a KaBOOM! with what should be "normal" pressure loads, I tend to think either bullet setback or firing out of battery.

The 1911 is pretty good about not firing out of battery, but a 1911-like Delta Elite is not a 1911 when you get right down to it despite the frames being the same.

If you have the failed case, comparing its primer to others can suggest it fired out of battery or not -- if the indent is not in the same position as the others this is most likely the cause and something has been missed in the gun's check out. This is the one I'd worry about the most as if it happened once, could happen again if the root cause is not addressed.

Since you also saw pressure signs in other rounds of the same recipe, maybe there is truth to the idea some minimum fraction of the volume of the case needs to be filled with powder. Bullseye does have the highest nitroglycerin content of all powders as far as I know.

Basically though I'd chalk it up to using .40S&W data in a 10mm case. I know lots of folks use .38Special data in .357Mag cases but I believe the .40S&W is rated for a bit higher peak pressure than 10mm.

EDIT: Ops, you said a powder not quite as fast as bullseye, which I read as you using bullseye. Hope it wasn't AA#5, for some reason I seem to remember reading about lots of problems with AA#5 in 10mm a while back.

Really, we need to know the powder and charge weight if you want anything other than pure speculation. Photo of the hot case and the KaBoom case would help too.

--wally.
 
I don't think loading a 10mm to .40 S&W levels is the problem since .40 S&W loads are about 20% less than 10mm. A stuck bullet would be a more likely problem but you say that didn't happen. I'll go along with the firing out of battery theory. This is more likely with low powered loads since they don't cycle the gun as well.
 
I loaded one batch of ammo using a 'fast' powder but not quite as fast as Bullseye
We still don't know what kind of powder it was!

Regardless, I would concur with bullet set-back as a probable contributor.

It is also a well known fact that very fast powders tend to "peak" very quickly, and without much prior notice or pressure signs.

It could be the "moderately heavy" .40 S&W charge would blow a case quite easily if the bullet set back on top of it during feeding.

That would give even the 10mm less internal case volume then the .40 S&W at normal seating depth.

Round #20 blew out the base of the case in the unsupported area
After the KB, I picked up the brass and most of it was WAAAAY expanded and close to KB.
Among other things, I have to fault you for shooting 20 rounds of an untested & unknown load without looking at each case as it was fired!

That right there is in reloading 101!

rcmodel
 
New starline 10mm brass
CCI primers
135 gr Rainer plated TC FP bullets- seated to 10mm oal-good, solid taper crimp
6.7 gr Red Dot

I have never had any bullet setback with this gun with ANY load. Bullet setback would have to be uber mega bad to seat the bullet down in the 10mm case to approach the .40 length since it is a very light bullet anyway.

Thanks for the opinions. Keep 'em coming. We need to keep this from happening to anybody else.
 
Well, it's interesting to note that Alliant doesn't even list Red-Dot powder as suitable for any bullet weight in the 10mm.

They do list 6.7 grains as a MAX Load with a 135 grain Jacketed, not plated, bullet in the .40 S&W.

Berry says not to use jacketed bullet Max load data with plated bullets.

Maybe they know something about their powder & bullets you don't?

rcmodel
 
I'm thinking your basic mistake was using reloading data for a different caliber than the one you're actually shooting. Kinda like using .308 data to reload a 30.06. Not a good idea, as the pressure curves are different.

Secondly, you didn't check the data you used against a couple extra sources, such as the powder manufacturer's data. I think had you done that, you would have realized that powder in that cartridge might not be a good idea and probably not used it.

Finally, you've been reloading a good long time and I think that like all of us, you might have gotten a bit too comfortable and relaxed a bit in your safety habits aka double checking/cross checking data on loads, powders, bullets, etc.

I'm glad you're not hurt, hope your firearm isn't too bad. I suspect the gun may be ok, as 1911's take a kaboom better than a lot of pistols due to the design. Finally, going to get after you to exercise more due diligence and caution in the future. Use the load data for the caliber you're loading for in the future.

Please take care and don't forget to use due diligence in the future. We all make mistakes and laxity is a human condition, so don't be down on yourself, but tighten up in the future.

Best Regards,

Dave
 
I'm just glad no one was hurt during what could have been a painful lesson, but only cost you one magazine, and some pride. Good luck, and please stick to 10mm data, sir.
 
Have you noticed that many of these type problems center around fast burning powder? I don't like fast burning powder in semi-auto handguns, but especially in high power large calibers and/or with large case capacity. I think it's false economy to use the faster powders to get more loads per pound. To me anything faster than Unique/Universal Clays/Power Pistol is asking for trouble, pressure can build up too quickly with a small variation in the powder quantity, regardless of what caused it.
 
I believe the .40S&W is rated for a bit higher peak pressure than 10mm.

Actually, other way round. 40 S&W is SAAMI listed at 35,000 psi. The 10mm is listed at 37,500 psi.
 
For some reason when there's a KB everyone wants to dismiss the most likely reasons. With any KB in reloading the most likely causes is 1. component failure 2. over charge or 3. stuck bullet from under or no charge.

An undercharge or no powder charge that sticks a bullet will rarely operate a semi automatic so it is a less likely scenario as long an the shooter didn't clear the stopage and fire the next round without checking the bore.

Detonation in handgun cartridges is a theory that's never been able to be reproduced in the laboratory, and they tried hard to do it. Light charges cause under power and stuck bullets, not explosions.

Consider the possibility that you got the wrong powder, either you where mistake as to the powder in the hopper, grabbed the wrong canister or the powder you grabbed had a different faster powder poured back into it previously. There are a lot of powders that a swap would not be noticeable. Bullseye instead of Unique for example or AA2 instead of AA5. With all the cases showing pressure signs, something is causing it though the .40 and 10mm SAAMI pressures are pretty close to the same (35K psi vrs 37.5K psi) you just blew out the weakest case.

The primers in the 10mm are large pistol standard or magnum while the .40 uses small pistol. Erratic or increased pressures from hotter primers could be the reason there isn't load data for fast powders for the 10mm on Alliants website load data.
 
That was fiarly common with the Colt Delta Elite. I remeber Cooper writing about that when I was a kid.

I guess that's why the 40 won and the 10mm is fading into an historical footnote. I think it is just too much "Boy for the britches".

Really glad you're OK. Just too scary.
 
Red Dot is very fast, and who knows how fast at 10MM pressures. It is great at low pressures.
 
See Eagle-103's post above. The load is a nominal one for the 10mm and 135gr bullet.

You didn't say what the history of the brass was; But, then, even new brass can fail......

Most likely what you had is simply a case-head failure. I experienced that several times while I was extensively shooting the 10mm back in the early-mid'90's.

My case head failures mostly came from brass that had been shot in a Glock M20. Where the case head is unsupported, you get the famous Glock "smiley face", or case head buldge.

When this is reloaded several times, the case is severly weakened and eventually fails due to metal fatigue.

In a S&W 1006, it was usually un-eventful, other than a "puff" of gas and an unusable case. In the Glock M20, it resulted in blowing out the magazine, and occasionally damaging the slide stop.

I quickly parted with the Glock......, and all subsequent ones I "won" in various pistol matches. The only Glock I've kept was the one I was issued when I retired, and that only for sentimental reasons (It has my badge number and agency on it). It's been to the range once since I retired in '04, and that was to practice for a "Glock" match.......

FWIW; I prefered BlueDot and Accurate#7 in the 10mm.
 
Mix-up in powder

I agree with the steve c coment about mixing powders. I've had powder in the hopper and wasn't 100% certin which is was and dumped it out. east to do with distractions and not enough time to finish every job.
 
You also don't mention that you "worked up" your load from the minimum suggested powder charge rather than just picking a powder charge and loading them up.

When I'm starting a new load, the books, and my dad, taught me to start from the minimum load, and add, say .2 grains at a time until I get to the load I'm after. So I might go to the range with a few cartridges with 3.3 grains, a few with 3.5, a few with 3.7, and a few with 3.9. If I'm headed for a max load, I'll be stepping up in increments of .1 towards the end. As I shoot each load, I examine the cases for signs of overpressure before moving on to the next increment.

Re the above post about getting powders mixed up: Every canister of powder I have gets a label (a piece of index card) rubber-banded to it. When I pour powder into the hopper, the label goes in the hopper with the powder.
 
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