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I know 'll be labeled lazy but I need stainless..

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by Tallbald, Jun 11, 2011.

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  1. Tallbald

    Tallbald Member

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    Folks I grew up (like many of us) in the days when the only stainless gun on the market was the Smith Chief's Special. I also learned early in my life that I have what many call "rusty hands", wherein for whatever reason, my body chemistry seems to be especially corrosive on beautiful polished blued steel. Despite meticulous cleaning and care, my hands over the years have lightly marked the bluing on several of my guns. I have advised my son to keep this in mind, after he had the same experience with blued P89 Ruger magazines of his own. With this in mind, I now own only stainless or military-type finish guns.
    I am reluctant to handle blued guns much, especially others pieces.
    I own and shoot with pride two beautiful stainless ROAs, and would like to expand to other stainless BP creations. Not interested in modern inlines or synthetic stocks, could you folks help me identify other stainless BP choices? My Holy Grail would be a stainless Kentucky flintlock which I know would need a carbon steel frizzen. I need the extra edge of stainless nowadays to even enjoy shooting, lest I spend my time at the range focused mostly on my concerns. Thank everyone. Don
     
  2. robhof

    robhof Member

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    The only SS flintlock rifle that I've heard of is the TC Firestorm, not a Ky. style, closer to a Hawkins, Green Mtn makes SS barrels for just about any b/p rifle, I've got a SS GM barrel on one of my Hawkins; it's a fast twist for sabot.
     
  3. Tallbald

    Tallbald Member

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    Hi Rob. Good to talk to you. Been busy here. Give me a call this weekend if you get a chance. I looked up the Firestorm and wow I didn't know it existed. Is it also meant to be used with loose powder? Thanks, Don
     
  4. Jaymo

    Jaymo Member

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    What about having a blued gun Parkerized and then have Duracoat applied over the Parkerization? Impervious to just about everything, and you can get it in a variety of colors, including gun blue and brown. It would give you a lot more choices in BP guns than what's available in stainless.
    Maybe a black hard chrome or ceramic finish?
    Any of those would allow you to chose the BP gun you like and then have the rust protection applied in a color that looks much more traditional than stainless steel.

    Plus, stainles BP guns are a LOT more expensive than the blued versions of the same guns. I don't understand the price difference between SS and non SS BP guns. It's a LOT more than the difference between SS and non SS modern firearms.

    I've also had the same problem as you. I hate how SS looks, compared to polished blue, but the rust resistance is nice.
    Thoroughly degreasing your guns and then applying a nonabrasive carnauba wax, like stock wax, butcher's wax, or car wax without polishing abrasive may solve your problem. I'd recommend you try it on one of your blued guns before you lay down the money for a stainless one. It solved my problem.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2011
  5. BHP FAN

    BHP FAN Member

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  6. Jaymo

    Jaymo Member

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    We can always count on BHP FAN (Browning High Power??) to post pics of of some of the beauties from his collection. I must admit, though I don't normally care for the look of stainless guns (I have quite a few of my own), I do like the look of the stainless 58 NA.
    Funny thing, I was going to mention that model and you posted a pic of it.
    I didn't mention that one because I thought he was looking for long arms.

    That SS NA would look great with a good polish job and a nice set of mahogany grips.
    Or maybe ebony grips, black would look great against the stainless steel.
     
  7. Busyhands94

    Busyhands94 Member

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    i have two NAA cap and ball mini revolvers, they are stainless steel and five shot! what i love about them is i can unscrew the nipples and put the cylinder in the dishwasher or take it into the shower with me. as for cleaning the inside of the frame it's really easy, just a damp cloth followed by some protecting oil will be enough. and one of my favorite parts is that you can use Q-Tips to clean the barrel! my favorite is the Super Companion, it is pretty powerful for it's size! i even customized mine for accuracy!
     
  8. frontiergander

    frontiergander Member

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    Ever see this product?
    http://www.dynamicfinishes.com/store/index.php?p=catalog&parent=1&pg=1
    Its a ceramic coating that you wipe on a few coats, let it cure for 24 hours and it protects against rust/corrosion and makes cleaning dirt, fouling, what ever gets on it. The fouling just wipes right off.

    They have the Bore Coat which again does the same thing but is used strictly inside of the bore/cylinder.

    I made a small video after i did my muzzle loader with it. Before i had to use a piece of 0000 steel wool to get the primer fouling off my frame.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6klwwA56DE
     
  9. BHP FAN

    BHP FAN Member

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    LOL! Jaymo's right, I DO like to ''brag''!
    here's some more...
    [​IMG]
     
  10. BHP FAN

    BHP FAN Member

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  11. Loyalist Dave

    Loyalist Dave Member

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    That's a very cool suggestion. I have a friend who calls it "acid hands" and he has finger prints all over his stuff too.

    I am wondering since the problem with acid-hands and bluing is the brown rust, and the marring of the polished surface, that perhaps you should consider a rifle with browned lock and barrel, with brass hardware? You couldn't marr the finish much if at all, as any new rusting from your hands wouldn't really be visible. FYI lots of rifles were finished in-the-white, and got a mottled patina through use, exposure to moisture, etc. Application of oil to the metal surfaces stopped rusting, but the metal would take on a "stain" where the rust had been, and over time (say like a year on a long hunt) the rifle would have a mottled, browned appearance. Your hands wouldn't harm that finish either, just let nature take its course.

    LD
     
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