I know nothing will last forever but...

[SkaerE]

how durable are the S&W lightweight snubs?

going from the older Aluminum frame Airweights in 38 special to the newer Sc/Aluminum framed Airlites...

i mean, can you realistically practice with these things (50-100 rnds/month) and not wear them out in a year or two? (obviously not all with +P rounds of course)

i am to assume that the Sc/Aluminum framed ones are more durable? but how about the Ti cylinders? I've read they need special care? too bad they dont make a Sc framed 38 or 357 with a steel cylinder. hmmm...

i know that with some of the older colt lightweight commanders (aluminum framed) you could make them last longer by hardchroming them to reduce the wear on the aluminum frame. can you do the same thing with the aluminum J-frames? does it help at all?

im really looking at a 38 (preferably 38+P) because i have no urge to fire a 357 out of a 15 oz or less snubbie. but i would consider an ultra light 357 if it were to be so much more durable (i just wouldnt ever fire 357's in it)

i guess i figure 5 rounds of 38 +P that i hit with will be considerably more effective than 1 or 2 rounds of 357 that i can get off on target...

ultimately, i dont like guns i feel i cant practice with, so i want a good light snubbie that i can still shoot (and yes, i do like shooting snubbies)

thanks

 

[Jim K]

At 100 rounds a month, you are talking only 1200 rounds a year, with mostly moderate loads. The guns in question should last 10 years at least with the recommended ammo.

I have a 3" barrel square butt steel Model 36 that I have had for years and consider utterly reliable and easy to hit with. Further, recoil, while noticeable, is manageable with +P. All things considered I really don't see enough of an advantage to light weight to go to an aluminum or lighter alloy gun.

Jim

 

[C.R.Sam]

If one doesn't shoot a LOT or many really heavy loads longevity should be a minor factor.

And like Jim...I like em heavier cause I like to shoot em a lot.

36s, 19s, 27s, 29s etc are my bag.
And I carry em as well as shoot em.

Sam

 

[10-Ring]

Me, I likes the steel frames because I like how they absorb the punishment If you get the lightweight snubby, stick w/in factory limits & your gun should last you a proper service life

 

[SnWnMe]

I understand that there are some special cleaning instructions for the Ti cylinedered Smiths. Check the manual.

I enjoy shooting my 442. I run 148gr wadcutters through it. Very easy to shoot and I get my practice in (aiming low just feels weird). In the 3 months that I have had it I put over 500 mostly lightly loaded rounds through it. Once a month I run a cylinder ful of +P just so I don't forget...

Keep the practice loads light and the gun will outlast you. Besides, you have that Lifetime Warranty.

 

[ChristopherG]

I shoot my 12 oz 340PD at least a box or two a month, with some binges above & beyond. Never shot anything in it that wasn't either plus-P or magnum (though the magnums are milder handloads). No concerns yet, after maybe 1500 rds, and I don't expect any to arise. If they do, however, I'm very confident S&W will make it right. I mean, you're not going to jam atomic handloads in it, right? As long as you don't do anything really radical, you don't have to make it last forever; S&W will.

Hint: if you want the scandium, and want to be able to shoot it comfortably and controllably, get yourself a pair of Pachmayr Compac grips. Make all the difference.

 

[Stainz]

My Al/Ti S&W 296 is ~9 months old - maybe 700 rounds of mainly CCI Blazer 200gr GDjHP .44 Specials through it. I have already noted some wear on the cylinder stop - the little aluminum bump that halts rearward movement of the cylinder, ie, it coming off into your hand, when the ejector is pressed. This is a simple predictable problem when you constantly push a harder-than-steel sharp edged Ti cylinder edge into that fairly soft aluminum frame abuttment. Perhaps S&W, or a competent 'smith, can mill a worn one off and drill and tap to add a new cylinder stop. I think that will be my lifespan limiter. The 296 is my main CCW.

My latest addition, because it came with grips I could use (unlike the excellent S&W 637 I nearly bought's dimunitive boot grips), my latest CCW/HD piece is a S&W M10-11 (current version of the venerable M&P) in the 2" barrel length. It is extremely reliable, smooth, blued steel, fixed sights, and easily fired. It is .38 Special +P rated - and a six-shooter - and a tad heavy (~30 oz) - but will outlast me. That 2" version is no longer a catalog item - mine came from a closeout distributor.

Stainz

 

[Old Fuff]

The problem with lightweight alloy frames is not so wear as it is with distortion caused by EXTENSIVE use of high-pressure loads (+P, Magnums, etc.). The pounding can literally bend and twist the frame. Most actual wear will be to the finish, and that is inconsequential.

Take an aluminum frame snub-nose .38 Special revolver for an example. If it were shot with mid-range loads averaging around 16,000 CUP it might still be fully functional by the time it’s owner was disabled by old age. On the other hand if one insists on something more in the range of 25 to 30 thousand CUP the story will be much different.

I agree with Sam. I prefer snubbies made out of steel. They stand up better to extensive shooting and the additional weight makes them easier to control - especially in calibers over .38 Special. (I have observed that it may be safe to stand in front of some folks rapidly shooting .357 Magnum’s out of a super-lightweight, but don’t stand anywhere else). The only advantage I see to the lightweight guns is when they are carried in a pants pocket or an ankle holster.

 

[SkaerE]

The only advantage I see to the lightweight guns is when they are carried in a pants pocket or an ankle holster

thats exactly why i would buy one. it would rarely be my primary carry piece, but my "always gun". i figure 5 rounds of 38 +P is better than nothing (and better than a P32 auto)

just something small to always have access to.

 

[SkaerE]

This is a simple predictable problem when you constantly push a harder-than-steel sharp edged Ti cylinder edge into that fairly soft aluminum frame abuttment.

just re-read some of the posts and i'm a bit confused by this one.

As far as i know, Ti isnt nearly as hard as Steel. thats one of the reasons you cant make a decent knife out of it. Ti alloys can rarely exceed a rockwell rating of about 42 or so. (many steels can hit 64, hard chrome is about 80 - i think)

anyhow, you would think this problem would be more present in the older aluminum framed steel cylinders guns than in the Ti cylindered ones.

hmmm...

 

[Old Fuff]

If you want/need a pocket gun by all means buy one of the lightweights. I'd recommend one with an enclosed hammer that wouldn't likely snag when being drawn. But practice with standard or mid-range loads and carry the Plus-P's

That said, and paper ballistics aside, I don't believe anyone or anything you have too shoot is going to notice the difference.

 

[Jim K]

I always recommend firing at least one cylinder with the carry ammo in each range session. You don't want to be surprised by your own gun if you need it.

Jim

 

[JNewell]

An alternative to switching loads in the alloy gun is using a comparable steel gun for extended practice. Obviously it's not perfectly comparable due to recoil differences, but there Jim's advice is good. If nothing else, rotate your carry ammo -- by shooting it in the carry gun.

 

[JCM298]

Sc/Ti's

I shoot 55 + rounds through my 340SC at each range session. I practice with my reloads that are light point of impact is the same as my carry ammo, Federal 130 gr. The last five rounds are always the loads that I had in the gun enroute to the range. By doing this, I stay in practice, rotate my ammo, & check the Crimson Trace grips. So far I've gone through 350 + rounds.

Since I have old brittle skin and bruise easily, I use shooting gloves & a band-aid on my trigger finger because of the recoil from the "beast".
I also use Pachmeyer grips and switch to the CT's about halfway through the session.

So far, I've had no problem with the "beast". Clean up is not difficult except for the front of the cylinder. The "lock" is ugly but I never use it.

I bought it because of its weight and it serves me very well.

John