I need a new lube

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alexander45

alexander45

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After taking down my carry piece to de dust bunny it I noticed it was dry on the inside (not good for a 1911). Then I went and pulled my revolvers out of their socks and the same story dry.

so rem oil isn't working very well for me (granted it's a old can)
but any suggestions on a new or old lube, that will hang around on my carry gun in the Arizona heat? any thing in particular for a parkerised finsh?
 
Are we talking two weeks, or six months?

Inside my safe, I can Eezox my guns and they are good for two years or more, with occasional handling.

My carry gun gets cleaned each range trip or every 30 days, whichever comes first. For those guns, I use Ed's Red.

Any over the counter CLP should be fine for 15-30 days. This would include plain old Mobil 1 automotive oil.

If you want longer term protection, use something better. Eezox is my choice, but plenty of people do fine with CorrosionX, Ballistol, G96, WeaponShield, and plenty of others.

edited to add: For my 1911 slides, I use Berryhill's Ultimate Gun Lube. It is a red grease (looks a lot like the Mil-Spec "WTR" grease we used 40 years ago on Navy aircraft), and I suspect just about any quality grease would do just fine.
 
lucas makes a gun oil ive had good luck with. it does not seem to evaporate like many oils but ive not tried it in climates like yours. it does work well here in missouri for me.
 
I've moved to Eezox for surface treatment, Slip2k for inner workings and semi's, and Tetra gun grease for bolt action rifle bolts. No problems.
 
Good gun care brands to research.....

Id look into these popular CLPs & gun care products:
Ballistol, IGG(Italian Gun Grease), Rand CLP, Slip 2000, Gunzilla, FrogLube, LPX/MPro7, Weaponshield, SEAL-1, Eezox can work well.
I currently use Froglube liquid CLP, www.froglube.com . I don't "heat it" as some suggest but it works very well. I also use Ballistol. Both products are safe, non toxic, long lasting & have no fumes or bad odors.

Be careful not to use too much. Excessive CLPs or oils are a common problem.
 
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TrickyDick said:
Synthetic Mobil 1, 5W30. no joke.
Click to expand...
This is all you really need.

In reality some CLP and other products in the mix are good too. Remember that the mission of "gun oil" is not quite so well defined. Some want it to lube, some want it to protect against rust, some want both and cleaning properties as well.

It's really as if we need some "editorial" guidance on these threads. Lubrication vs. Rust protection. Different products do better at one thing than another. A good example is EEZOX. Potentially the best gun product for rust protection on the market based on several rather well-done studies. Fair to middlin' for lubrication. Motor oil. Fantastic for lubrication, good but not ideal for rust protection. Cosmoline: Outstanding for rust protection. Utterly useless as a lubricant for a firearm.
 
I've tried quite a few, and recently bought a bottle of Gun Butter. I'll have to see how it holds up long term, but I was amazed at how smooth the slides were on my guns after applying it to them. I had been using FP10 and Militec-1, but this stuff blows them away on reducing friction and staying in place.

http://www.gunbutter.com/
 
I would highly recommend frog lube. It was one of the best products from a test a thr member did of like 46 different gun oils on both lubrication and protection. I have had great success with it with no more rusting and all my guns feel so much smoother than when I used rem oil
 
I've only used CLP and have never had an issue of it running dry after long-term storage, but I'll have to say that I'm intrigued by the Mobil 1 synthetic idea. I have several quarts in the garage for the cars, so I may need to try some out this weekend. :)
 
The key to those that use Frog Lube;

After application, wipe product off very thoroughly. Frog Lube residue will gum up your works in the cold weather. Warm fine, cold, not so much.

Also, do not mix Frog Lube with other lubricants.

Sometimes reading the directions can be a good thing.
 
They all work pretty well if used properly. I've been shooting since 1956 and have yet to experience corrosion using a wide variety of products. Also never had a single malfunction attributable to lubricant.

Remember that all lubes will evaporate to some degree over time, so even safe queens need regular attention.

FWIW, I currently use Mobil 1 5W-30 for my oil, and Mobil red grease for my grease. I use some Hoppe's oil on some revolver parts. Breakfree CLP and Mobil grease on BCGs. WD-40 gets squirted around here and there too. Works good as a cleaner/flusher. Also works in the middle of extended range sessions. Main cleaning agent is Hoppe's #9. For metal mags I clean with #9 and find that the slight lubricity residue is perfect for 1911 mags. No oil on them!

But the key is there is no magic potion. Regular cleaning and lubing is vital. How often and how much will vary, and only you can decide.
"Never let the sun set on a dirty gun."
"A clean gun is a happy gun."
 
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Oil or Grease with Teflon (PTFE)

Teflon takes well to a Parker zed finish I'd go as far as to say that parkerizing and Teflon (A.K.A. Polytetrafluoroethylene or PTFE) are a top notch combo. It soaks into the porous parkerized coating and protects long term, the reason for parkerizing in the first place. This may also be why you can't find any oil on your firearm after you've oiled it.

Basically, you are asking us to find the perfect combo of viscosity and preservation for your firearm. This will require some trial and error but here is my advice.

I use, Slip 2000 for everyday use and short term because I don't mind using lots of it as it's cheap, works well and not toxic. There's no Teflon in it but I only have a few parkerized gun parts and they will get hosed with something with Teflon in it at some point here and there anyways.

You can use expensive gun cleaners that have Teflon in them, they work well for short term to moderate term storage. If it keeps soaking up the oil keep putting more on it... But any oil that works as a cleaner like CLP boarders on being an oily solvent. It ends up being thin and though it works can be washed/wiped/used away pretty easily. Versus something that isn't as thin and won't wanker out on the preservation of your firearm, which is where thicker oils come in.

There are a lot of options but in honesty the thicker it gets the more likely it is to collect dirt, gunk up the firearm and not wipe off. SO….

If you are talking real long term, like loot stash or buried in a hole for SHTF or grandchildren apocalypse scenarios, consider a grease of sorts. That's what a lot of greases are good for anyways, but shooting it with grease on it is not a good idea. SO it ends up depending on how frequent you use them and whether you want them ready for fire or don't mind cleaning them off when you need them.

For long term I've wiped my firearms down with greases containing silicon (like Harveys 100% Silicone grease) and then put them in air/vapor tight containers. I also like silicon as a lube but... once you silicone it you'll never get the silicon off. I’ve also dumped Harvey’s into my AMD-65 trigger group and have never looked back.

At least that's what I would do! Also, don't be afraid to try other lubes as long as they displace water see how they work. Many products marketed towards gun cleaning/preservation tend to be expensive because they have to pay for all that marketing. There are a lot of other lubes that do the same thing. Zep brand makes lots of good lubes. Zep 2000 and Zep 45 come to mind. Zep 2000 is a spray on silicone grease... you can feel the lube still working on a piece of metal after you wipe it off. Zep 45 has Teflon in it and works well on everything, even in the cold. Neither is marketed towards firearms but are easy to find at hardware/automotive stores and usually half the price.
 
I just started using an ultrasonic cleaner with Lymans Cleaner, followed by Sonic Lubricant.
The Cleaner is a concentrate you add to distilled water, then drop the (Optionally: field stripped) gun in and run it for 5 minutes. It comes out spic and span, even the firing pin channel. You would not believe the stuff it gets out in that short time, even from a gun I thought was pretty clean.
Then you change out the cleaner and pour in the Sonic Lubricant. Insert gun and run another 5 minutes. It displaces the water and leaves a lubricant film. Let it drip dry and it leaves a dry film lubricant. I still use gun grease on the rails and the disconnector surface.
My plastic yardwork/pocket gun was full of lint and other stuff of unknown origin. 30 minutes later it's like new, inside and out.
It's about a $160 investment if you get the machine at Harbor Freight ($60 w/coupon). Same unit as Lyman sells for $130.

Personally, I avoid motor oil on my machine tools and guns. It is designed to attract and emulsify water, carry it to a hotter area and let the engine heat boil the water out. That doesn't happen in a firearm. Also, modern motor oils have all but eliminated anti-friction ingredients such as molybdenum disulphide - it does't get along with cat converters.
 
I have been using Rem Oil for years and it works just fine. I have guns that have been sitting in my safe for a long time with just Rem Oil and no rust.

With that being said, I am now using 10W-30 synthetic oil for bores(very inexpensive compared to traditional gun oils). I do have Rem Oil in spray cans as it works great to get into every nook and cranny.

The OP said the gun was dry, Rem Oil leaves a very thin film on the metal to prevent rust.
 
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