I need some good flints.

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goon

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The flint that came with my Lyman Deerstalker is dull already. I would like to get some good ones.
Where can I get some flints that will stay sharp for awhile?
What kind am I looking for?
Thanks.
 
Find out where the guys at the Traditional Muzzle Loader Hide gets theirs when they do the special group buys. I raised a suggestion that started these group buys but darn if I remember what outfit served as a middleman for the English flints we bought. Minimum bag was 50 and most of us ordered over 100. I picked up 250 myself - just in case the Brits decide for Round II.
 
It appears that I will be in need of some shortly,
I am only getting about 25 strikes before they quit sparking.
I bought some knapped ones the other day, and they sparked like hell for awhile.
I need to get something to sharpen them with.
I think they will work for awhile, and I am gonna get one of those hammers to put a new edge on them with.
I am also get some from track of the wolf.
They seem as good of place to start as any.
 
Has anyone ever taught you how to use the brass ferrul on your short starter to dress and sharpen the edge of the flint?

It's simple, fast, and effective.

Talk to your BP friends about how to do it most effectively, I can't think of a way to adequate describe it.
 
I was ordering a new barrel and stock blank today at Muzzleloader builders supply, and remembered and reconfirmed that they have Tom Fuller English flints, imported and sell them for 80 cents a flint. Best price I've seen and GREAT flints. Mine have lasted a long time.
 
I use the dura flint they last a long time and are easy to resharpen with a wet diamond file. Here is a number to call to order one if you want 330-948-1082 goon glad to here you like your deerstalker mine is only 2 weeks old and just shipped it back to lyman to see if they can get the gun to shoot. I have had alot of missfires and hang fires my gunsmith said the touch hole liner was way off center and the barrel did not lay straight in the gun stock and it rubs the front nose cap on the left side and the wedge pin even bent was not holding the barrel down tight.I know that hangfires and missfires are a flintlock trade but not like this and I do not expect L&R lock time out of this factory gun. By the way what load are you useing in your gun ? Ball or conical and what powder charge.
 
I am running 85 grains of Goex FFg in mine with a .490 Hornady round ball. I haven't really shot it yet to try to get any accuracy with it, I just plink at stuff with it.
I can hit a clay pigeon at about fifty yards with it.
Mine goes off almost every time, even with a weak spark.
I haven't got any other flints yet because I have other expenses that I need to take care of first.
But I am going to get in contact with some of those places and get some at my earliest convenience.
Thanks for all the input.

BTW- Does anyone know if my flintlock gun could be converted to percussion?

Has anyone ever taught you how to use the brass ferrul on your short starter to dress and sharpen the edge of the flint?

No one has ever taught me anything about flintlocks. All of my knowledge comes from reading and trial and error. My dad used to have one, but I am already way past his level of knowledge. I have no BP friends.
I am on my own.:what:
 
Rifle Flint Patents on Ebay

Gentlemen,

Guys....I designed a rifle flint along with another gentlemen over
20 years ago. After receiving the patent I started producing and guys
that bought them loved it....it out sparks anything on the planet, and
has lasted guys over 10 years....no joke...I guess I invented something that
worked too well, as I was immediately met with opposition by a agency...
name with held...long story short...the agency wrote a regulation with
language necessary to preclude it from being legal to hunt with...agency
officials said tradition must be preserved....but they allow throughly modern
flintlocks and equipment for the same season....I knew I was treated unfairly...if you google MAMA FLINTER....and email her...she will tell you her
dura flint lasted 3000 shots...this is far too long for large blackpowder companies whos goal is fast obsolescence...they want you going back into
stores to shop for more flints, and maybe buy some other equipment they sell...

If you want something that really works great...look on ebay in June...I expect to have copies available by then on 5 patents on flintlock mechanisms.
One is a inline ignition flintlock that uses cigarette lighter flints....really neat...

The other designs, one of which maybe the dura flint patent....it produces
300 spark showers and according to the inventor who I telephoned, lasts
500 shots....My design has lasted guys here in my home town over 10 years...

Go to Ebay.....type in BLACKPOWDER then scroll to FLINTLOCK RIFLE FLINT
PLANS.....since I am selling information here....I don't expect to get any
interferance...but hurry bout it and buy quick....the dura flint guy is
in hiding...I called him and he wouldn't pick up the phone...theres a reason...

PS: Are we dumb enough to believe that the D.C. Madam who ran a prostitution ring, who was naming names in court of high officials, with the
confidence of Roger Clemens, hung herself ?:confused:
 
Some times different locks like different flints ..but I have 3 different rifles and they all like the black English flints better than any I`ve tried ....stay away from the cut flints , in the 4 pack ..they are junk .
I buy mine at Dixie ..

A brass shaft short started works well for knapping flints for me too ..no need to buy the little hammers . The brass shaft works just as well .
 
Black English flints are some of the best, if not the single best, for smokepoles. Most factory supplied flints are pretty lousy and I'd never expect them to last. The exception was my Pedersoli that came with an English flint already in the jaws.

The other issues are placement of the flint and angle of the jaws to the frizzen. Improperly adjusted on either count and you'll get a spark, but bash your flint needlessly. One you can fix, the other is a factory issue. The flint should contact the frizzen on the bottom third, as this gets more scraping and spark. Hitting higher on the frizzen gives more smashing and less spark since it doesn't scrape all the way down as the hammer falls and frizzen opens. The frizzen just gets knocked out of the way at first impact. Striking lower on the frizzen decreases the leverage and keeps contact longer.
 
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