either would be an excellent choice. if you plan to buy ammo, 6.5 cm is probably the way to go. if you handload, it's pretty close to a wash. the 6.5cm has a 30* shoulder which is generally preferable to the 20* shoulder (found on all the 308win based cartridges like 243win, 260rem, etc). The 260rem has a much better selection of brass though.
i want to get into long range shooting.
- Thread starter huntinfool87
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The 260 and 243 are great choices for long range.
scottishkat
Member
The 6.5 Creedmore and 260 Rem are both great from 26 inch barrels the 6.5x284 is it right now.
dprice3844444
member
http://www.snipercentral.com/milspec5r.phtml
http://www.snipercountry.com/inreviews/rem_m700_stainlessspecial5rmilspec.asp
http://www.snipercountrypx.com/p-5707-remington-700-ss-5r-milspec-20-wthreaded-muzzle-308.aspx
http://www.snipercountrypx.com/p-2576-scpx-700ss-5r-milspec-deployment-package-308.aspx
http://www.snipercountry.com/inreviews/rem_m700_stainlessspecial5rmilspec.asp
http://www.snipercountrypx.com/p-5707-remington-700-ss-5r-milspec-20-wthreaded-muzzle-308.aspx
http://www.snipercountrypx.com/p-2576-scpx-700ss-5r-milspec-deployment-package-308.aspx
redneck2
Member
....
chucknbach
Member
Just get a scope with clickers on it and mount it up to what you already have and have fun.
pigger
Member
long range shooting
You can't go wrong with the 6.5 Creedmoor, I have shot my share of different calibers but this one is very hard to beat, it shoots very well way out there. For me it will out shoot the 308 all day long, but I don't like a 308. I have had one in a Ruger M77, Ruger #1 which shot dang good, I now own a DPMS 6.5 Creedmoor
that I use to hunt hogs here in Texas. It will do the job that you are wanting without all the recoil!!
www.jimmyscreekguideservice.com
You can't go wrong with the 6.5 Creedmoor, I have shot my share of different calibers but this one is very hard to beat, it shoots very well way out there. For me it will out shoot the 308 all day long, but I don't like a 308. I have had one in a Ruger M77, Ruger #1 which shot dang good, I now own a DPMS 6.5 Creedmoor
that I use to hunt hogs here in Texas. It will do the job that you are wanting without all the recoil!!
www.jimmyscreekguideservice.com
i can share a little real world experience with you. I too wanted to build a 1000 yard sporter.. spent a whole bunch of money and put a lot of time into it and am not happy with the results i obtained. have a great hunting rifle that is great to about 600 yards after that it gets real suspect. Now a good portion of that is the shooter (me), but a 1000 yards is a long way and a sporter is marginal. I bought a 700 custom shop gun in 300 win mag, get this in a light mountain contour - i truly had no clue. Again a great 600 yard gun, but real squirelly after that. If it were me and my money i'd buy a savage F class in 6.5 x 284 and a decent piece of glass and be shooting long range tomorrow. FWIW
savanahsdad
Member
for around $900 on a glass take a look at a Shepherd 618-V1A don't hear much about them , don't know why , it is the best scope I have ever looked through , have one mounted on AR 15 in 25WSSM shoots great out to 800 yards , have not tried 1000 yards yet ,
OK, maybe I am just stupid, but I don't get the advice on scopes.
I have a desire to SEE what I am shooting at. When I shoot at 100 yards, I want to be able to SEE movement of the rifle that is only 1/4" or less. So I use a 32 power on my benchrest rifle. Most of the guys I shot with when I had the chance, were using 36X.
I have only shot at 800 yards three times. Each time I hit the target fairly easily with a $69 16X Centerpoint scope. For me, the key was caliber and barrel: 7mm08 to get velocity, which allows me to avoid so much drop (which changes dramatically with temperature). Unfortunately, I had only spire point flat base (chosen for deer hunting at shorter distances) - would have been a higher B.C. with boat tails, match style bullets but I made do with what I had.
The barrel is a bull Shilen that I put on a Savage receiver. Handloaded.
Maybe I just have poor eyesight, but with a 9X I don't think I would recognize movement of the barrel (which is bad) nearly as easily as I can with a 16X. WEre I shooting often at 800, I would probably go for a higher power scope.
(The 16X is available at Walmart. That's why I bought it. I have three of these and I have never had the zero wander.)
So y'all set me straight here.
I have a desire to SEE what I am shooting at. When I shoot at 100 yards, I want to be able to SEE movement of the rifle that is only 1/4" or less. So I use a 32 power on my benchrest rifle. Most of the guys I shot with when I had the chance, were using 36X.
I have only shot at 800 yards three times. Each time I hit the target fairly easily with a $69 16X Centerpoint scope. For me, the key was caliber and barrel: 7mm08 to get velocity, which allows me to avoid so much drop (which changes dramatically with temperature). Unfortunately, I had only spire point flat base (chosen for deer hunting at shorter distances) - would have been a higher B.C. with boat tails, match style bullets but I made do with what I had.
The barrel is a bull Shilen that I put on a Savage receiver. Handloaded.
Maybe I just have poor eyesight, but with a 9X I don't think I would recognize movement of the barrel (which is bad) nearly as easily as I can with a 16X. WEre I shooting often at 800, I would probably go for a higher power scope.
(The 16X is available at Walmart. That's why I bought it. I have three of these and I have never had the zero wander.)
So y'all set me straight here.
savanahsdad
Member
I was replying to the op's post 18 , and that scope is a 6-18X40
6x18 makes good sense.
I am not a scope guru, so don't know about the price
But again, my inexpensive Centerpoint has never seemed to lose zero. Have it on bunch of rifles, 7mm08, 308s, 223.
I put most of my $$ in the barrel. Then in reloading equipment. Getting a bullet comparator and case comparator tools (Hornady) for my calipers helped a lot.
If you want 1st shot to hit right, get an app for bullet ballistics for your smart phone, carry a thermometer and know the barometer. And buy a chronometer.
What has made much more difference to me is learning (somewhat!) how to control neck tension in multiply reloaded cases.
I am not a scope guru, so don't know about the price
But again, my inexpensive Centerpoint has never seemed to lose zero. Have it on bunch of rifles, 7mm08, 308s, 223.
I put most of my $$ in the barrel. Then in reloading equipment. Getting a bullet comparator and case comparator tools (Hornady) for my calipers helped a lot.
If you want 1st shot to hit right, get an app for bullet ballistics for your smart phone, carry a thermometer and know the barometer. And buy a chronometer.
What has made much more difference to me is learning (somewhat!) how to control neck tension in multiply reloaded cases.
OP
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huntinfool87
Member
Ok first off thank you everyone for the advice! I already have a scope its a u.s. optics tpal with the erect knob. My deer hunting rifle is a 257 wby. So I already have to order ammo and the place I get it from carries both 260 and 6.5 target grade ammo I spent a little over $1000 on the scope and looks like the custom build on the rifle is going to be around $2000 for either caliber I'm leaning twords the 260 because I'm going to eventually start reloading my own ammo.
Well I can see that I am a bit outclassed by the amount of money that you spend.
That's your perfect right, but I sure would drop $500 immediately on reloading equipment. I'm partial to lee neck collet dies, Wilson Seaters, RCBS charge master. But if you can find some Benchrest shooters who will show you the ropes on precision reloading, you can save a boatload of money over buying target ammo.
Pick your bullet early on, decide a seating from a loading table, and then have a barrel Made so you are just a few thousands off the lands, then you can adjust either way as you see fit. I made the mistake of having a barrel made without specifying exactly how I wanted, and I got a long throat suitable for a much heavier bullet that what I prefer. Since I use that barrel primarily for hunting, no big deal.
That's your perfect right, but I sure would drop $500 immediately on reloading equipment. I'm partial to lee neck collet dies, Wilson Seaters, RCBS charge master. But if you can find some Benchrest shooters who will show you the ropes on precision reloading, you can save a boatload of money over buying target ammo.
Pick your bullet early on, decide a seating from a loading table, and then have a barrel Made so you are just a few thousands off the lands, then you can adjust either way as you see fit. I made the mistake of having a barrel made without specifying exactly how I wanted, and I got a long throat suitable for a much heavier bullet that what I prefer. Since I use that barrel primarily for hunting, no big deal.
If you're going to have that rifle custom-made, discuss bullet seating depth with the maker, before you have it made.
For my money, I preferred to do things myself, so I gain the knowledge of their trade, rather than giving them the money, and take the knowledge. You can take a good savage action, or even a high end custom action, and mate a barrel into it, with a nut, and have something you can learn a great deal from. Gaining knowledge, is worth a great deal of money to me.
For my money, I preferred to do things myself, so I gain the knowledge of their trade, rather than giving them the money, and take the knowledge. You can take a good savage action, or even a high end custom action, and mate a barrel into it, with a nut, and have something you can learn a great deal from. Gaining knowledge, is worth a great deal of money to me.
OP
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huntinfool87
Member
I do not like savage and I will never own another one! And I do not have the tools to build my own. I lookedinto that option but the tools would cost more than the gun.
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huntinfool87
Member
Yes I was looking at snipercentral.com the Remington 700 build and although that isn't the cheapest rout I could take I think that's going to be my best option for what I want.
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huntinfool87
Member
Docsleepy. How do I go about choosing a seating depth? I know I want 1:8 twist for that caliber. But as far as seating depth goes I really have no clue on how to decide.
hatwerinrednek
Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2013
- Messages
- 55
ruger 6.5 creedmoor. hawkeye varmint/target or the hawkeye predator . they have an adj two stage trigger and also come in other callibers . i have a 223 in the varmint/target model and i was concerned about the weight but isnt that bad when you consider all the other crap you carry when you go hunting. and the two stage trigger is great. diddnt think i would like one but youll be amazed how fast you will get used to it.
As the number of shots through a barrel go up, the throat gets eroded
However, loaded right "at the lands" or even a few thousands "into" the lands, some guns produce tighter groups. The problem is, it may be very very sensitive, and a few thousandths error can be crucial.
Because of this, many people intentionally load .020" off the lands, where the group may not be as tight, but the sensitivity to seating depth may be much lower.
If you really want accuracy, I think you are going to have to develop some skills at reloading, and I don't mean novice reloading. That's why I would find a benchrest shooter and ask him to coach you.
You will need several tools, none of which are really expensive. Hornady makes a tool to find the depth of the lands. They also sell devices that go on calipers and allow you to find the spot at which your seating will contact the rifling lands. All this stuff might benefit you more than thousands spent on a gun.
There is a fellow -- I think it is Northwood Shoothing Supplies or something similar -- who sells "RemAge" barrel system that allows you to use a barrel nut to mount a barrel on a Remington 700 receiver, and set the headspace without needing a lathe or machinist or gunsmith. I prefer to do my own gunsmithing (I'm cheap). I learn more that way.
My hunting rifles I load differently than my benchrest rifle.
There is more to this, than I think I will be able to learn in one life.
Wish you the best of luck!
However, loaded right "at the lands" or even a few thousands "into" the lands, some guns produce tighter groups. The problem is, it may be very very sensitive, and a few thousandths error can be crucial.
Because of this, many people intentionally load .020" off the lands, where the group may not be as tight, but the sensitivity to seating depth may be much lower.
If you really want accuracy, I think you are going to have to develop some skills at reloading, and I don't mean novice reloading. That's why I would find a benchrest shooter and ask him to coach you.
You will need several tools, none of which are really expensive. Hornady makes a tool to find the depth of the lands. They also sell devices that go on calipers and allow you to find the spot at which your seating will contact the rifling lands. All this stuff might benefit you more than thousands spent on a gun.
There is a fellow -- I think it is Northwood Shoothing Supplies or something similar -- who sells "RemAge" barrel system that allows you to use a barrel nut to mount a barrel on a Remington 700 receiver, and set the headspace without needing a lathe or machinist or gunsmith. I prefer to do my own gunsmithing (I'm cheap). I learn more that way.
My hunting rifles I load differently than my benchrest rifle.
There is more to this, than I think I will be able to learn in one life.
Wish you the best of luck!
OP
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huntinfool87
Member
I have several guns with the 2 stage trigger I love them. But varmint rifles tend to have to much twist and don't stabilize the heavy rounds at longer ranges. I have been told to stay away from varmint guns for thatreason by a few long range shooters.
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huntinfool87
Member
Just over $1000 yes its a custom built scope so depending on the options you choose will determine the price.
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huntinfool87
Member
Docsleepy. I have started reloading but I'm very green at it! That's why I was going to stick with factory loaded ammo until I get more comfortable with the system.
As far as finding a long range shooter to learn from they are far and few between around here.
Thank you again for all your knoladge.
As far as finding a long range shooter to learn from they are far and few between around here.
Thank you again for all your knoladge.
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