Eightball , I was a foreign car tech before they were called techs, and for probably longer than you have been alive.
With in that time, since probably for longer than you have been alive, i was a winter hiker in the White mountains of NH.
It looks like this then, and I am the old geezer on the left in tans..
It is about -24 below 0 here these days in dark...
Back in the day there was no such thing as digital cameras, and mine were old manual 35mm Minoltas which still work. These will work in temps as low as -60 and have, colder maybe, but the thing is once they get cold they must stay cold.
Many other hikers would bring their camera gear inside a place called Grayknob, and I simply left mine outside when I went inside to socialize and cook my dinner.
The guys that brought their cold cameras inside created water inside their cameras.
What I did going from my house to drive to the trail head was to allow the camera to chill slowly in a padded camera case, placed in the rear of my heated car. It was a volvo wagon. The drive wasn't very long either no more than maybe 1.5 hours counting a stop for last minute frozen foods.
At the trail head I left the camera in it padded bag, and opened the zipper a bit, placing the camera in the top of my pack, and keeping it sheltered and still cooling it down.
By the time I hiked up to Grayknob that camera would be what ever temp the air was, mostly -40 below.
When I got in the area I set up camp, pretty much dug a grave in the snow 7.5 feet long, by 2.5 feet wide, by however deep the snow might be. No tent.
I would lean my pack in the head of the hole and get my bivey sack filled with my pad and sleeping bag, and leave the camera in the pack.
At times it was hard to reload the frozen film as it would snap off wrapping it on the spindle inside the camera. But never once did I ever think to try and warm that camera up at all, and I took at least a 1,000 pictures over the years.
Those who didn't freeze their shutters shut, froze the film to itself and encountered any possible problems. Any camera that depended on batteries became extra weight, and worthless.
As a car mechanic I know the glove box gets a lot of heat. All the duct work is near the glove box, and the lock is something just about any fool can break in under 1 second with not much more than bare fingers.
I lost a whole Kawasakii Nomad to a thief who was armed with nothing more than a pair of vise grips. He simply grabbed the hasps of the type most often used on enclosed trailers and snapped off the upper hasp. He bent each hasp about 3 times and bingo, he was all set for the next of 3 hasps.
The first place any thief is going to break into will be the glove box, wouldn't you?
So at the least go buy for 10 dollars a Brinks Locking box and bolt it to the rear of your car, and use bolts known as carriage bolts with the nuts inside the box, so the bolts can't be removed from the outside.
Cover the nuts inside the box with either wood or plastic. Make small blocks of wood to hold the gun snuggly, but no padding of any sort that can trap and hold moisture, so the gun can breath. If you decide padding must be in order, padd under the box before you bolt it in, and pad over the box after it is locked and this insulation is to slow how fast the temps change, not to keep the gun warm.
Use a better gun oil like BreakFree and lube the gun inside and out with a thin film of oil. I mean thin! Wipe down the mag, make the rails clean, and do not flood them.
Once more use as much insulation under the box as you do over the box, always keep that the same.
That frost came from the gun getting warm and then as it cooled it caused sweating to occur, just like a glass filled with ice does in summer time.
