Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers

Hi, I just joined this site to find out more about a gun I found in a home my husband and I recently purchased... I dont know a whole lot about guns, but i will try to answer the questions to the best of my ability!...
a) caliber- .38
b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle)- just under 2inches.
c) grips shape (round or square)- i honestly do not know what that means...
d) number of shots/cylinder bores- 5
e) type of sights- ????
f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip- The only numbers i can find anywhere on this gun are "199" and "188"
g) Model number if it is under the crane.
188??? 14785711527291302893761.jpg 1478571281308942876773.jpg 14785715417711839001761.jpg
 
I'm definitely not a Smith & Wesson expert, but you appear to have a J frame, round butt (lower back part of the grip), early Model 36 " Chief's Special ", .38 Special caliber, that has been neglected / weathered and abused. This may sound strange, but otherwise, it's in good shape. It needs a good clean up job, preferably by a reputable gunsmith. It'll probably clean up nicely. The low serial number increases the gun's value. Please do not have the gun refinished or altered in any way, which reduces value.
 
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Gun Master said:
I'm definitely not a Smith & Wesson expert, but you appear to have a J frame, early Model 36 " Chief's Special ", .38 Special caliber, that has been neglected / weathered and abused. This may sound strange, but otherwise, it's in good shape. It needs a good clean up job, preferably by a reputable gunsmith. It'll probably clean up nicely. The low serial number increases the gun's value. Please do not have the gun refinished or altered in any way, which reduces value.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your input!
 
Aarrion hagan: Early 'Baby' Chiefs Special from 1951. Distinguished from later variants by the flat latch, half moon front sight and small trigger guard. Normally it would be worth less than $200 due to the amount of wear or corrosion. A S&W collector may pay a little more simply because they are rare in that configuration.
Try http://smith-wessonforum.com/ for a better idea of value, thats where the collectors hang out.
 
Radagast said:
Aarrion hagan: Early 'Baby' Chiefs Special from 1951. Distinguished from later variants by the flat latch, half moon front sight and small trigger guard. Normally it would be worth less than $200 due to the amount of wear or corrosion. A S&W collector may pay a little more simply because they are rare in that configuration.
Try http://smith-wessonforum.com/ for a better idea of value, thats where the collectors hang out.
Click to expand...

Radagast, Thank you for that information! The gun is definitely in pretty bad shape, had lots of rust and dirt on it, as it was found in the basement of an old home. I think I'll just polish it up the best I can and put it in the gun cabinet. It is good to know exactly what it is and how old it is. Thanks.
 
Aarion hagan said:
Radagast, Thank you for that information! The gun is definitely in pretty bad shape, had lots of rust and dirt on it, as it was found in the basement of an old home. I think I'll just polish it up the best I can and put it in the gun cabinet. It is good to know exactly what it is and how old it is. Thanks.
Click to expand...

A lot of long time soaking in a good oil can do wonders, especially if you would like an easy fix.
Also, changing positions of the gun daily can facilitate lubrication of the inner working parts.
By soaking, I mean dosing it (not immersion) while wearing protective rubber gloves. Most oils warn against contact with the skin.

As far as oils, I have determined an all (not blend) synthetic motor oil, like Mobile 1 (or similar) is best, since it does not leave a residue as petroleum products.
Others on THR have about as many opinions as viewers. Some like Rem Oil, etc.....
Heck, you could even use 3 in 1 oil. It is has been oiling guns (and sewing machines, etc.) seemingly forever.

P.S. - Try buying one in the US for $200. Not where I live. More like $400-$600 in good shape.
 
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I picked up a pretty nice and clean S&W Model 15-3 with a Serial Number : 1K14277. The gun will be going to my son-in-law as a Christmas gift. I would like to be able to share with him when the gun was made.

Many Thanks
Ron
 
a) caliber = .38
b) bbl length =6" tapered barrel
c) grips shape =square
d) number of shots/cylinder bores
e) type of sights. Groove
f) serial number = 95XXXX on butt of gun
20161114_180130_zpsdjg2ehjz.jpg
 
Right side of barrel *.38 S&W Ctg* is the BSR. *.38 S&W Special Ctg* is the M&P, specifically the .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change, there have been a few variants. The BSR uses the same internals and was made for England during WWII. They used a 200 grain bullet in the .38 S&W case as their standard military load.
A lot of BSRs were converted to .38 S&W special after the war by boring out the chambers. Converted guns aren't worth much.
 
Cool. Thats the easiest ammo to find and the gun looks unmolested.
Couple of caveats.
It predates the positive hammer block safety introduced after a fatality with a dropped gun in 1944. I recommend treating it as a 5 shooter, leaving the chamber under the hammer empty.
S&W does not recommend use of PlusP increased pressure loads in guns made before 1957. Its not uncommon for shooters to do so anyway, but the manufacturer does recommend against it.
The 'long action' in these guns is not interchangeable with the current 'short action'. Any breakage will require sourcing second hand parts from the same era.
 
Can anyone help me out identifying a friends revolver?

a) marked 38 S&W CTG
b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle)
c) square butt
d) 6 shots
e) adjustable rear
f) serial number: K 196730
g) number by the yoke: i need to get back with him on that
53712281d6.jpg 5de39a19fe.jpg
41870d7011.jpg
13c5526a45.jpg
 
Spec ops Grunt:
.38 Combat Masterpiece from 1953, the pre-Model 15. K frame, square butt, adjustable rear sight. The grips are not original.
 
Spec ops Grunt:
Check if the barrel says .38 S&W Special CTG (which is correct) or .38 S&W CTG (which would be strange). If its truly a Combat Masterpiece in .38 S&W, then a collector may pay a premium for it as it should not exist.
 
Radagast said:
Spec ops Grunt:
Check if the barrel says .38 S&W Special CTG (which is correct) or .38 S&W CTG (which would be strange). If its truly a Combat Masterpiece in .38 S&W, then a collector may pay a premium for it as it should not exist.
Click to expand...


It says 38 S&W Special CTG on the side.
 
A True Sock-drawer Smith!

A friend asked me to look at an "old revolver" that he's had for a few years. He got it from his dad and wants to pass it down to his son. Never shot it that I know of. Here's why.

The cylinder was half-way open, and the crane would not move. The cylinder would spin, but the crane was solid. There was a lot of crud on the gun and everything was stiff. There is a fair amount of rust and pitting on a couple of places. I soaked it with penetrant and oil for a while and the mechanisms loosened up again. I've oiled it and the more I move the mechanisms, the smoother it works. Initially the cylinder release wouldn't fully engage toward the back, securely holding the cylinder. This kept the hammer/trigger from moving, obviously. If you pushed the release button back manually, everything worked as it should. After some oil and loosening joints, it now operates as it should.

I BELIEVE it to be an old M&P model. It has "38 S&W SPECIAL CTG" on the side of the barrel, Six shots, a screw in front of the trigger guard, no model number and has "Made in USA, Marcas Registradas" on the frame side. FYI, I blocked out the last TWO digits. He had a few other guns that were handed down, but they're neither Smiths, nor revolvers. We'll have to deal with them elsewhere. Here's a few photos to help bring everything into focus.

1128161136.jpg 1128161136a.jpg 1128161137.jpg 1128161138.jpg 1128161139.jpg 1128161140.jpg
 
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