barrel stamped 38 S&W special CTG
a. 38
b. 3"
c. square butt
d. 6 shot
e. fixed sight
f. 503XX
Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers
- Thread starter Brian Williams
- Start date
a. 38
b. 3"
c. square butt
d. 6 shot
e. fixed sight
f. 503XX
Radagast
Member
agg:
Could you post a picture? Is the serial number you are quoting taken from the bottom of the grip frame? With some guns you will need to remove the grip to see the serial number.
The reason why I ask is that serial number 503xx is correct for either
a) a square butt .38 Military & Police model of 1902 - 1st Change revolver manufactured between 1903 & 1904. Barrel lengths were 4, 5 or 6.5 inches. or
b) a square butt .38/44 Heavy Duty manufactured between 1931 & 1941. Barrel lengths were 4, 5 & 6.5 inches.
Your guns butt and barrel length are wrong for the serial number. I'm thinking you have actually given an assembly number, which is usually stamped on the frame under the cylinder yoke. This is not the serial number, but a means of keeping track of parts during the manufacturing process and is irrelevant once the gun is assembled.
Recheck the serial number. Is there a letter prefix, such as V, S, C or D?
Could you post a picture? Is the serial number you are quoting taken from the bottom of the grip frame? With some guns you will need to remove the grip to see the serial number.
The reason why I ask is that serial number 503xx is correct for either
a) a square butt .38 Military & Police model of 1902 - 1st Change revolver manufactured between 1903 & 1904. Barrel lengths were 4, 5 or 6.5 inches. or
b) a square butt .38/44 Heavy Duty manufactured between 1931 & 1941. Barrel lengths were 4, 5 & 6.5 inches.
Your guns butt and barrel length are wrong for the serial number. I'm thinking you have actually given an assembly number, which is usually stamped on the frame under the cylinder yoke. This is not the serial number, but a means of keeping track of parts during the manufacturing process and is irrelevant once the gun is assembled.
Recheck the serial number. Is there a letter prefix, such as V, S, C or D?
Toil,
That's going to be one of the two "Victory" models S&W made during WWII. That date is roughly 1943. The fact it is cut to 2" makes one think it might be a British model K-200 - they were frequently cut down after the war, refinished and then exported from England back to the US. AKA, an "Oswald special." The original chambering was .38 S&W, different from .38 S&W Special.
That's going to be one of the two "Victory" models S&W made during WWII. That date is roughly 1943. The fact it is cut to 2" makes one think it might be a British model K-200 - they were frequently cut down after the war, refinished and then exported from England back to the US. AKA, an "Oswald special." The original chambering was .38 S&W, different from .38 S&W Special.
I have a .38 S&W M & P with serial number 7045xx, nickle platted, 5" barrel, fixed (half moon) sights, square butt with faux stag grips. The gun holds 6 rounds, shoots the .38 S&W and has never been bored to accept .38 specials. I believe this is a pre-victory, British lend lease gun, but would like to know the following:
* Does anyone know the ship date or how old the weapon is?
* What is the approximate value of the weapon?
Will appreciate any information ya'll can provide.
I have attached thumbnails
* Does anyone know the ship date or how old the weapon is?
* What is the approximate value of the weapon?
Will appreciate any information ya'll can provide.
I have attached thumbnails
Attachments
Radagast
Member
John-Boy:
Serial range for the Pre-Victory .38/200 British Service Revolver was aproximately 700,000 to 1,000,000, manufactured between 1940 & 1942.
You will have to fork out $50 to Roy Jinks at S&W to get a shipping date and factory letter.
Your gun has been refinished, the nickel on the hammer and trigger are the give away as these were always color case hardened from the factory. That particular style of fake stag grips was also popular on the refinished guns sold into the American civilian market.
Value is not high, in the realm of $200 to $300 dollars. It lacks collectors value due to the refinish and is chambered for a round that is expensive and no longer popular.
Serial range for the Pre-Victory .38/200 British Service Revolver was aproximately 700,000 to 1,000,000, manufactured between 1940 & 1942.
You will have to fork out $50 to Roy Jinks at S&W to get a shipping date and factory letter.
Your gun has been refinished, the nickel on the hammer and trigger are the give away as these were always color case hardened from the factory. That particular style of fake stag grips was also popular on the refinished guns sold into the American civilian market.
Value is not high, in the realm of $200 to $300 dollars. It lacks collectors value due to the refinish and is chambered for a round that is expensive and no longer popular.
Thank you Radagast, you confirmed much of what I had already suspected. I knew it was British from the "BNP" markings and that the finish & grips were not original and probably done when re-marketed back to the US. My wife purchased this gun to give to me for Christmas, it had belonged to her uncle who was a great friend of mine before he passed.
The .38 S&W rounds are hard to find here in South Georgia so I have been shootging the .38 cbc - as I said the .38 specials will not fit and I knew better than to shoot the +p rounds.
Thanks again, I really appreciate the service you all are providing to help all who want to find out about the DOB of their revolvers.
Where would I go to find out about an old Midland, single shot 12 gauge made in Birmingham, England?
John-Boy
The .38 S&W rounds are hard to find here in South Georgia so I have been shootging the .38 cbc - as I said the .38 specials will not fit and I knew better than to shoot the +p rounds.
Thanks again, I really appreciate the service you all are providing to help all who want to find out about the DOB of their revolvers.
Where would I go to find out about an old Midland, single shot 12 gauge made in Birmingham, England?
John-Boy
Radagast
Member
I can't help you with the Midland gun, I'm not a shotgunner and have no info on them.
weracerc
Member
.32 S&W revolver
a) caliber - .32
b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle) apprx 5in
c) grips shape (round or square) - round pearl handles
d) number of shots/cylinder bores - 6 shot revolver
e) type of sights. - fixed
f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip - 125826
g) Model number if it is under the crane. 32 long OTG
That number, if it is the s/n, should come from the butt of the grip (or under the barrel or face of the cylinder).
a) caliber - .32
b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle) apprx 5in
c) grips shape (round or square) - round pearl handles
d) number of shots/cylinder bores - 6 shot revolver
e) type of sights. - fixed
f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip - 125826
g) Model number if it is under the crane. 32 long OTG
That number, if it is the s/n, should come from the butt of the grip (or under the barrel or face of the cylinder).
Radagast
Member
weracerc:
I am assuming your gun has a S&W logo on the left side of the frame, otherwise it could be another brand.
OTG is actually CTG, short for cartridge. The round it is chambered for is .32 S&W Long or .32 long for short.
What you have is a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903 5th Change, manufactured between 1910 & 1917 in the serial range 102501 to 263000. Standard barrel lengths were 4.25 & 6 inches. If the grips are real mother of pearl they may add to the value, fake pearl will detract. Regardless, these guns do not command high prices, in 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $315 in very good condition.
I am assuming your gun has a S&W logo on the left side of the frame, otherwise it could be another brand.
OTG is actually CTG, short for cartridge. The round it is chambered for is .32 S&W Long or .32 long for short.
What you have is a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903 5th Change, manufactured between 1910 & 1917 in the serial range 102501 to 263000. Standard barrel lengths were 4.25 & 6 inches. If the grips are real mother of pearl they may add to the value, fake pearl will detract. Regardless, these guns do not command high prices, in 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $315 in very good condition.
How about this one
a) caliber-357
b) bbl length - 2.5
c) grips shape - RB
d) number of shots/cylinder bores - 6 shot
e) type of sights. Target RR front
f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip - 6K885XX
g) Model number if it is under the crane -66
a) caliber-357
b) bbl length - 2.5
c) grips shape - RB
d) number of shots/cylinder bores - 6 shot
e) type of sights. Target RR front
f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip - 6K885XX
g) Model number if it is under the crane -66
Smith and wesson ?
What year is my smith? the crane reads -1 for the 4" heavy barrel and 10-6 it is a six shot square butt (walnut) ser# c6581xx case harden hammer and trigger the top is flat black and the remainder is unbelievable beautiful bluing (its so pretty I don't want to shot it) slight ring around the cylinder. With shipping and ffl I have $281.00 bucks in it and I would trade it for my brothers service weapon beat up model 10 plus cash I would like to post the serial number on here ...He past away in 1987 ...Do you think theres a chance I could locate the pistol? :banghead: 38 caliber smith and wesson
What year is my smith? the crane reads -1 for the 4" heavy barrel and 10-6 it is a six shot square butt (walnut) ser# c6581xx case harden hammer and trigger the top is flat black and the remainder is unbelievable beautiful bluing (its so pretty I don't want to shot it) slight ring around the cylinder. With shipping and ffl I have $281.00 bucks in it and I would trade it for my brothers service weapon beat up model 10 plus cash I would like to post the serial number on here ...He past away in 1987 ...Do you think theres a chance I could locate the pistol? :banghead: 38 caliber smith and wesson
Last edited:
Smith and wesson ?
What year is my smith? It's a 38 S&W the crane reads -1 for the 4" heavy barrel and 10-6 it is a six shot square butt (walnut) ser# c6581xx case harden hammer and trigger the top is flat black and the remainder is unbelievable beautiful bluing (its so pretty I don't want to shot it) slight ring around the cylinder. With shipping and ffl I have $281.00 bucks in it and I would trade it for my brothers service weapon beat up model 10 plus cash I would like to post the serial number on here ...He past away in 1987 ...Do you think there's a chance I could locate the pistol? :banghead:
What year is my smith? It's a 38 S&W the crane reads -1 for the 4" heavy barrel and 10-6 it is a six shot square butt (walnut) ser# c6581xx case harden hammer and trigger the top is flat black and the remainder is unbelievable beautiful bluing (its so pretty I don't want to shot it) slight ring around the cylinder. With shipping and ffl I have $281.00 bucks in it and I would trade it for my brothers service weapon beat up model 10 plus cash I would like to post the serial number on here ...He past away in 1987 ...Do you think there's a chance I could locate the pistol? :banghead:
Attachments
Radagast
Member
cwl1862:
Your model 66 was made in 1975.
nuttygun:
Your 10-6 was manufactured in the period 1963-1965. Serial range was C622700 to C810532, so 1963 seems likely.
Feel free to start a new thread and post the serial number of the gun you seek. We only recommend leaving of the last few digits for the sake of your privacy, in this case it doesn't matter. Chances are slim that you will find it, but miracles do occur.
Your model 66 was made in 1975.
nuttygun:
Your 10-6 was manufactured in the period 1963-1965. Serial range was C622700 to C810532, so 1963 seems likely.
Feel free to start a new thread and post the serial number of the gun you seek. We only recommend leaving of the last few digits for the sake of your privacy, in this case it doesn't matter. Chances are slim that you will find it, but miracles do occur.
586 DOB and question
This is my first post so sorry in advance if I'm doing something wrong.
I have a 586 with box, with all literature and tool kit (scew driver). Gun is in ( I believe almost mit condition). Looks new in box. Everything is hand written on side label.
Now for date info
A. 357
B. BBL 4"
C. Square wood
D. 6
e. RR and adjustable
F. AAE87XX
Thinking probably first year 1981
Now the question: This revolver has not had the modification done to it. Was wondering if it would hurt the value if I sent it in to have the update done to it. Firing Pin and bushing.
Any thoughts??
This is my first post so sorry in advance if I'm doing something wrong.
I have a 586 with box, with all literature and tool kit (scew driver). Gun is in ( I believe almost mit condition). Looks new in box. Everything is hand written on side label.
Now for date info
A. 357
B. BBL 4"
C. Square wood
D. 6
e. RR and adjustable
F. AAE87XX
Thinking probably first year 1981
Now the question: This revolver has not had the modification done to it. Was wondering if it would hurt the value if I sent it in to have the update done to it. Firing Pin and bushing.
Any thoughts??
Radagast
Member
Blevins:
S816xxx means your gun is a K frame Military & Police revolver then it was manufactured in the period 1945 to 1948 and is a postwar transitional model. If the nickel finish is from the factory there will probably be some interest in it from a collector. If the hammer and trigger have been nickeled then it is an aftermarket job and the gun is only has value as a shooter.
smokinjim:
AAA2100 was recorded in 1980, AAD2120 in 1981, so your gun was manufactured in either of those years. If the gun was unfired as new in the box sending it in may damage it's collectors value, as it would no longer be new in the box.
From your description I would say it has been fired and is in very good condition, so having the modification done probably won't change it's value to a collector, but may make it more attractive to a shooter.
S816xxx means your gun is a K frame Military & Police revolver then it was manufactured in the period 1945 to 1948 and is a postwar transitional model. If the nickel finish is from the factory there will probably be some interest in it from a collector. If the hammer and trigger have been nickeled then it is an aftermarket job and the gun is only has value as a shooter.
smokinjim:
AAA2100 was recorded in 1980, AAD2120 in 1981, so your gun was manufactured in either of those years. If the gun was unfired as new in the box sending it in may damage it's collectors value, as it would no longer be new in the box.
From your description I would say it has been fired and is in very good condition, so having the modification done probably won't change it's value to a collector, but may make it more attractive to a shooter.
Thanks Radagast
Radagast thanks for taking the time and answering my questions. Good to know.
I don't know the complete history of the 586 and I'm sure the first owner must of shot it. The owner befor me never shot it or me. I probably will send it in for the update and shoot it. Had a 686 I wish I hadn't let go. They both are shuch sweet guns.
I've have a Security Six I play with alot but not as nice as a 686 or 586.
Anyway thanks again for your reply.
Radagast thanks for taking the time and answering my questions. Good to know.
I don't know the complete history of the 586 and I'm sure the first owner must of shot it. The owner befor me never shot it or me. I probably will send it in for the update and shoot it. Had a 686 I wish I hadn't let go. They both are shuch sweet guns.
I've have a Security Six I play with alot but not as nice as a 686 or 586.
Anyway thanks again for your reply.
DOB thread for S&S revolvers
38 caliber
3 1/4' bbl
grips round
shots 5
sights round front, grooved rear
serial 41621
If you have info on this model, thanks. What is recommended ammo for this one? My great grandfather carried as a prison guard way back when.
38 caliber
3 1/4' bbl
grips round
shots 5
sights round front, grooved rear
serial 41621
If you have info on this model, thanks. What is recommended ammo for this one? My great grandfather carried as a prison guard way back when.
Radagast
Member
Vermel:
If your gun is a break top (barrel swings down to load) with an exposed hammer then it is a S&W .38 Double Action 2nd model manufactured between 1880 & 1884. Caliber is .38 S&W (not .38 S&W Special) and should only be shot with black powder loads or equivalent substitutes. Try Old Western Scrounger for ammo. Modern ammo will wear it out faster due to the faster burn time and hence higher pressure than black powder.
If it is a break top with an internal hammer then it is a .38 Safety Hammerless 2nd Model manufactured between 1887 & 1990. Ammunition as above.
If it is a break top with an exposed hammer, no trigger guard and a spur trigger then it is a .38 Single Action 2nd Model manufactured between 1877 & 1891. Ammunition as above.
If the gun has a swing out cylinder then it is probably a .38 Regulation Police manufactured between 1917 & 1940. Caliber is .38 S&W, but modern smokeless ammunition can be used. Barrel length should be 4 inches from the forcing cone (cylinder end) to the muzzle. Regulation Police should be stamped on the barrels right side.
If the gun has a swing out cylinder and has .38 S&W SPL. marked on the right side of the barrel,with an exposed hammer is & steel frame it is a Chiefs Special from 1953 to 1955. Caliber is .38 S&W Special and any standard velocity load can be used. Barrel length should be 3 inches.
If your gun is a break top (barrel swings down to load) with an exposed hammer then it is a S&W .38 Double Action 2nd model manufactured between 1880 & 1884. Caliber is .38 S&W (not .38 S&W Special) and should only be shot with black powder loads or equivalent substitutes. Try Old Western Scrounger for ammo. Modern ammo will wear it out faster due to the faster burn time and hence higher pressure than black powder.
If it is a break top with an internal hammer then it is a .38 Safety Hammerless 2nd Model manufactured between 1887 & 1990. Ammunition as above.
If it is a break top with an exposed hammer, no trigger guard and a spur trigger then it is a .38 Single Action 2nd Model manufactured between 1877 & 1891. Ammunition as above.
If the gun has a swing out cylinder then it is probably a .38 Regulation Police manufactured between 1917 & 1940. Caliber is .38 S&W, but modern smokeless ammunition can be used. Barrel length should be 4 inches from the forcing cone (cylinder end) to the muzzle. Regulation Police should be stamped on the barrels right side.
If the gun has a swing out cylinder and has .38 S&W SPL. marked on the right side of the barrel,with an exposed hammer is & steel frame it is a Chiefs Special from 1953 to 1955. Caliber is .38 S&W Special and any standard velocity load can be used. Barrel length should be 3 inches.
help identifying 38 special S&W ctg
6 shot
5 inch barrel
under the barrel, B 395848, on the handle 395049, as far as I can make out on both.
last two dates on top of barrel as best as I can make out.
sep 14 09 Dec 28 14
has 4 bolts on the side plate and one in front of the trigger
the other side under the thumb release has a S&W trademark logo
thanks in advance.
6 shot
5 inch barrel
under the barrel, B 395848, on the handle 395049, as far as I can make out on both.
last two dates on top of barrel as best as I can make out.
sep 14 09 Dec 28 14
has 4 bolts on the side plate and one in front of the trigger
the other side under the thumb release has a S&W trademark logo
thanks in advance.
Radagast
Member
olskool:
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change, caliber is .38 Special, manufactured around 1920. Your gun has a heat treated cylinder so it should be fine with modern standard velocity ammunition. Keep away from, or at least minimize use of Plus P ammo. Your gun does incorporate a hammer block safety, but in WWII a similar gun was dropped, resulting in it firing when the hammer block failed. A new hammer block was designed and continues in use till today. It may be prudent if the gun is kept loaded to leave the hammer down on an empty chamber.
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change, caliber is .38 Special, manufactured around 1920. Your gun has a heat treated cylinder so it should be fine with modern standard velocity ammunition. Keep away from, or at least minimize use of Plus P ammo. Your gun does incorporate a hammer block safety, but in WWII a similar gun was dropped, resulting in it firing when the hammer block failed. A new hammer block was designed and continues in use till today. It may be prudent if the gun is kept loaded to leave the hammer down on an empty chamber.
Hi Gang,
Just inherited from my Dad. He got it in the late 50's to early 60's and I think it was new then. It is a S & W .22 6 shot, rounded grips, 5" long barrel, serial number K 227286, says "22 long rifle CTG" on the barrel, says "Marcas Registradas" below the cylinder. I don't want to sell it, but is it worth anything?
Thanks
Just inherited from my Dad. He got it in the late 50's to early 60's and I think it was new then. It is a S & W .22 6 shot, rounded grips, 5" long barrel, serial number K 227286, says "22 long rifle CTG" on the barrel, says "Marcas Registradas" below the cylinder. I don't want to sell it, but is it worth anything?
Thanks
