Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers
- Thread starter Brian Williams
- Start date
Ammo
I have 5 rounds of Federal 38 Special +P ammo, in silver casings. Also a few Federal 38 Special in silver casings and then a bunch of ammo in brass casings that have R A 7 6 on top of the bullets. They're in a box that says BALL caliber .38 special m41. Just wondering about the ammo and if I shouldn't use the +P or whatever... Sorry, I'm a newbie.
I have 5 rounds of Federal 38 Special +P ammo, in silver casings. Also a few Federal 38 Special in silver casings and then a bunch of ammo in brass casings that have R A 7 6 on top of the bullets. They're in a box that says BALL caliber .38 special m41. Just wondering about the ammo and if I shouldn't use the +P or whatever... Sorry, I'm a newbie.
Radagast
Member
Bboomer:
Correct, you have a 5 screw post war .38 Military & Police (pre-model 10) dating to 1948/49.
The markings under the crane are assembly numbers, used to track parts in the factory. They have no meaning after the gun is completed.
aaronsham:
Your Model 12-2 .38 Military & Police Airweight was manufactured in 1973 or 1974. Serial range for those years was D510000 to D659901.
The Model 12-2 has a slightly thinner grip frame than the steel K frame guns, so aftermarket K frame grips will not fit properly.
The Model 12 has an aluminum frame, regular use of PlusP ammo can result in frame stretching.
Common advice on gun forums is to shoot a cylinder full of PlusP for familiarisation, then practise with standard pressure loads, while carrying PlusP for self defence. Or you can buy a quality standard pressure defensive load such as the Federal Nyclad.
The RA 76 stamped ammo may not be in the original box. IIRC M41 ammo is a 158 grain steel jacketed ammo issued from 1941 to the 1950s, when the 130 grain FMJ replaced it (this may not be correct) I am assuming the 76 in the headstamp refers to 1976, which makes me think it has been repackaged.
Check the RA76 load with a magnet. If the rounds are magnetic it has a steel jacket and I would not fire it in an alloy framed gun. If non magnetic then shoot them off and get some decent carry ammo.
Correct, you have a 5 screw post war .38 Military & Police (pre-model 10) dating to 1948/49.
The markings under the crane are assembly numbers, used to track parts in the factory. They have no meaning after the gun is completed.
aaronsham:
Your Model 12-2 .38 Military & Police Airweight was manufactured in 1973 or 1974. Serial range for those years was D510000 to D659901.
The Model 12-2 has a slightly thinner grip frame than the steel K frame guns, so aftermarket K frame grips will not fit properly.
The Model 12 has an aluminum frame, regular use of PlusP ammo can result in frame stretching.
Common advice on gun forums is to shoot a cylinder full of PlusP for familiarisation, then practise with standard pressure loads, while carrying PlusP for self defence. Or you can buy a quality standard pressure defensive load such as the Federal Nyclad.
The RA 76 stamped ammo may not be in the original box. IIRC M41 ammo is a 158 grain steel jacketed ammo issued from 1941 to the 1950s, when the 130 grain FMJ replaced it (this may not be correct) I am assuming the 76 in the headstamp refers to 1976, which makes me think it has been repackaged.
Check the RA76 load with a magnet. If the rounds are magnetic it has a steel jacket and I would not fire it in an alloy framed gun. If non magnetic then shoot them off and get some decent carry ammo.
Radagast
Member
aaronsham:
A quick google search shows that RA76 refers to manufacturer Remington Arms in 1976 & the M41 designation was given to the 130 grain load as well.
So you have a box of low powered .38 Special FMJ ammo. Do the magnet test, if it passes it is good to shoot.
A quick google search shows that RA76 refers to manufacturer Remington Arms in 1976 & the M41 designation was given to the 130 grain load as well.
So you have a box of low powered .38 Special FMJ ammo. Do the magnet test, if it passes it is good to shoot.
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Radagast
Member
If the have been stored in reasonable conditions they will be safe to shoot. I've shot plenty of ammo from the 1950s in rifle and revolver calibers with no problems.
If they show signs of water damage or corrosion then don't shoot them, otherwise go ahead.
If they came with the gun then it appears that the previous owner used the PlusP for carry, standard pressure for training rule.
If they show signs of water damage or corrosion then don't shoot them, otherwise go ahead.
If they came with the gun then it appears that the previous owner used the PlusP for carry, standard pressure for training rule.
Radagast
Member
Bboomer:
No problem, I've made the same mistake a few times in this thread and have had to go back and correct it.
No problem, I've made the same mistake a few times in this thread and have had to go back and correct it.
Radagast
Member
Bboomer:
1) Congrats on reaching the halfway mark.
2) S&W don't recommend use of PlusP in guns made before 1957. THR member SaxonPig has fired some 1200 rounds of PlusP through a prewar gun with no ill effects, he also recommends against using PlusP in pre 1930 guns.
I think S&W chose the introduction of model numbers in 1957 as an easy cut off date. By the time your gun was produced more than two million M&Ps had been manufactured and the most significant changes (internal hammer block, short action, heat treatment) had all been bedded down. I'm personally confident that your gun is safe to shoot with PlusP, although I would avoid +P+ if it was my gun. But, I am not a lawyer or an engineer, nor do I play one on the internet. It's your call to make.
1) Congrats on reaching the halfway mark.
2) S&W don't recommend use of PlusP in guns made before 1957. THR member SaxonPig has fired some 1200 rounds of PlusP through a prewar gun with no ill effects, he also recommends against using PlusP in pre 1930 guns.
I think S&W chose the introduction of model numbers in 1957 as an easy cut off date. By the time your gun was produced more than two million M&Ps had been manufactured and the most significant changes (internal hammer block, short action, heat treatment) had all been bedded down. I'm personally confident that your gun is safe to shoot with PlusP, although I would avoid +P+ if it was my gun. But, I am not a lawyer or an engineer, nor do I play one on the internet. It's your call to make.
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Tapoutking
Member
Model 19-3
6in barrel
.357/.38
blue finish
serial # 2k97770
black grip round
will post pic when I get on my computer tomorrow.
I'm posting from my iPhone right now.
6in barrel
.357/.38
blue finish
serial # 2k97770
black grip round
will post pic when I get on my computer tomorrow.
I'm posting from my iPhone right now.
Hi, new to the site and looking for info on a 38 i recently bought.
a) S&W .38 special ctg (on barrel)
b) 6" (from cylinder to muzzle)
c) grips shape (round)
d) 6 Shot
e) fixed sights.
f) serial number MX14xx on the bottom of the grip
g) number under the crane C3429xx
Thanks for any help , Jim
a) S&W .38 special ctg (on barrel)
b) 6" (from cylinder to muzzle)
c) grips shape (round)
d) 6 Shot
e) fixed sights.
f) serial number MX14xx on the bottom of the grip
g) number under the crane C3429xx
Thanks for any help , Jim
Radagast
Member
dvldog:
I am assuming you have the two numbers switched. C3429xx is the serial number and should be present on the bottom of the grip frame, Mx14xx would be an assembly number, which are usually found stamped under the yoke.
You have a Postwar .38 Military & Police manufactured between 1954 & 1956. Serial range for those years was C277555 to C402923.
If the number on the butt is Mx14xx then either a) the gun has been defaced and a new number stamped on it, or b) the gun is a .22lr on the small J frame. S&W did not make a .38 special with an M serial prefix.
Assuming the serial number has been modified on the butt, then the correct serial number is still C3429xx, S&W often stamped the number under the crane, on the cylinder face and on the underside of the barrel.
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TwoNiner:
Your Model 63 .22/32 Kit Gun Stainless was manufactured in 1980 or 1981. Serial range for those years was M130001 to M160000.
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Tapoutking:
Your Model 19-3 Combat Magnum was manufactured in 1972.
I am assuming you have the two numbers switched. C3429xx is the serial number and should be present on the bottom of the grip frame, Mx14xx would be an assembly number, which are usually found stamped under the yoke.
You have a Postwar .38 Military & Police manufactured between 1954 & 1956. Serial range for those years was C277555 to C402923.
If the number on the butt is Mx14xx then either a) the gun has been defaced and a new number stamped on it, or b) the gun is a .22lr on the small J frame. S&W did not make a .38 special with an M serial prefix.
Assuming the serial number has been modified on the butt, then the correct serial number is still C3429xx, S&W often stamped the number under the crane, on the cylinder face and on the underside of the barrel.
----------
TwoNiner:
Your Model 63 .22/32 Kit Gun Stainless was manufactured in 1980 or 1981. Serial range for those years was M130001 to M160000.
----------
Tapoutking:
Your Model 19-3 Combat Magnum was manufactured in 1972.
Radagast
Member
waidmann:
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 - 3rd Change manufactured between 1909 & 1915 in the serial range 14690 to 241703, so 1914 or 1915 seems likely.
As usual I'll repeat the warnings: This gun pre-dates heat treatment of cylinders, so stick to standard pressure lead only loads. It also pre-dates the internal hammer block safety, if kept loaded it would be prudent to leave the chamber under the hammer empty.
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 - 3rd Change manufactured between 1909 & 1915 in the serial range 14690 to 241703, so 1914 or 1915 seems likely.
As usual I'll repeat the warnings: This gun pre-dates heat treatment of cylinders, so stick to standard pressure lead only loads. It also pre-dates the internal hammer block safety, if kept loaded it would be prudent to leave the chamber under the hammer empty.
forindooruseonly
Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2009
- Messages
- 1,076
Here is a couple that I'd like to know. Thank you in advance.
Model 14-3
a) .38 special
b) 6 inch
c) square
d) 6 shooter
e) adjustable
f) s/n 14K13xx
g) 14-3
Model 30-1
a) .32 S&W Long
b) 3 inch
c) round
d) 6 shooter
e) adjustable
f) s/n H527xx
g) 30-1
Model 14-3
a) .38 special
b) 6 inch
c) square
d) 6 shooter
e) adjustable
f) s/n 14K13xx
g) 14-3
Model 30-1
a) .32 S&W Long
b) 3 inch
c) round
d) 6 shooter
e) adjustable
f) s/n H527xx
g) 30-1
Radagast
Member
forindooruseonly:
Your Model 30-1 .32 Hand Ejector was manufactured in 1971 or 1972. Serial range for those years was H30002 to H60000, so 1972 seems likely. The -1 refers to yoru gun being built on the J frame, earlier versions were manufactured on the smaller I frame.
Your Model 14-3 K38 Masterpiece was manufactured in 1977.
Your Model 30-1 .32 Hand Ejector was manufactured in 1971 or 1972. Serial range for those years was H30002 to H60000, so 1972 seems likely. The -1 refers to yoru gun being built on the J frame, earlier versions were manufactured on the smaller I frame.
Your Model 14-3 K38 Masterpiece was manufactured in 1977.
KJS
Member
Radagast
Member
KJS:
Your Model 10-6 .38 Military & Police Heavy Barrel was manufactured in 1966 or 1967. Serial range for those years was C810533 to C999999so 1967 seems likely.
Your Model 10-6 .38 Military & Police Heavy Barrel was manufactured in 1966 or 1967. Serial range for those years was C810533 to C999999so 1967 seems likely.
fortyfiver
Member
I have just purchased I believe a pre war military and police revolver and would appreciate a manufactured date if someone could help.
(A) 38 special ctg
(B) 5" barrel
(C) sqaure butt
(E) fixed sights
(F) 447180 (butt and cylinder)
Thanks for the help.
(A) 38 special ctg
(B) 5" barrel
(C) sqaure butt
(E) fixed sights
(F) 447180 (butt and cylinder)
Thanks for the help.
