Radagast-
Very sorry to hear it. This is a tough time of year to be down and out. Best wishes for a complete recovery. Where do you live? If any of us can do anything to help you out just say the word.

Tinpig
 
Radagast

Very sorry to hear that you are in the hospital with a broken back. I hope that you will be up and on feet soon and most important full recovered. You have been missed in here. I hope that you and yours have a Merry christmas.
 
Thanks guys. I'm on the mend and walked today, not bad for a guy with a torn spinal cord, shattered vertebra, fractured pelvis, bruised pancreus & severed tendons. :)
Tinpig, I'm in Australia, a little far for care packages, but I really do appreciate the well wishes. My family, friends, shooting buddies & co-workers have all visited, & I am keeping the nursing staff on side with a friendly attitude & massive bribes of chocolate. :)

If I can get my Standard Catalog of S&W brought in then I'll make a start on answers, but thats a maybe at the moment. With the cocktail of painkillers I am on I'm not going to work from memory.

I hope all of you have a wonderful, safe & happy christmas.

Later.

Ken
 
As we all know, bad things happen to good people.

Take care, God bless. The hundreds of people who will never meet you are wishing you the best!
 
Yipes Radagast!


What the heck did you DO???


Godspeed in recovery!



At least it's Summer down there, so, beats all the freezing drizzle and snow and slush and Winter stuff up here.



You SHOULD post an Address or a "Care of" Address which can ensure your privacy, which we can send get-well-goodies to.


You are in fact, being officially requested to do so!
 
Oyeboten:
I suffered severe injuries in hand to hand combat with a were-kangaroo while doing field research for Larry Corriea's next book Monster Hunter International, Rise of the Marsupials.

Actually I fell nine feet and managed to land like a cat on my feet. Unfortunately my L2 shattered as if it had been hit with a hammer & a sound like a gun shot. Everything that could go wrong did so all at once. Since then everything has gone right, including been hauled up a hundred foot hillside without becoming a paraplegic, getting the best neurosurgeon in the state, major surgery with no complications, and a fairly rapid recovery considering the extent of my injuries.

I'll PM you my address after I get some sleep, you can pass it on to any of the THR regulars that may be interested. I'll dig into your Brazilian as soon as I have my SCSW in hand.
 
Woah!


What a Romantic Tale..! A Kangaroo!


What do you think got his ire up like that?? I have heard they can be quite good fighters, and or kick you into next week very easily, if not outright kill you.


Probably various of the Theropod 'Dinosaurs' used to use a similar technique - lean back on their strong fat Tail, and let loose with those Legs and sharp slicing Claws, as well as punch or grab into a Half Nelson or other WHILE kicking and slicing.


Well, you have a heck of a story now to tell your Grandkids! Even though you probably had enough good and real life stories already!


Best wishes!
 
Frohe Weihnachten und ein gutes Neues Jahr. With every wish for your speedy and complete recovery.

Waidmanns Heil!
 
Please help me with the DOB of my Smith & Wesson Model 19-3.

a) .357 Magnum
b) 4" Barrel
c) Square
d) 6
e) Adjustable Rear & Red Ramp Front
f) 2K980xx
g) 19-3
 

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a) .38 special
b) 4"
c) replacement grips that dont fit correctly
d) 6
e) fixed
f) 266976 stamped under the barrel and on the butt

I picked this up at a steal and have no idea what model it is or what year it as born. I actually joined this forum just so I could find out. No Smith and Wesson insignia stamped on the firearm except for their name on the side of the barrel.
 
Back in business, typing one handed.

Corndog07:
You probably have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change manufactured between 1915 & December 1920. Serial range for those years was 241704 to 358xxxx.
Your gun predates heat treatment of cylinders, so stick to standard velocity lead ammunition only. Avoid jacketed, plus p or +p+ marked ammo you don't want a bulged or cracked cylinder.
Your gun also predates the positive internal hammer block safety introduced during WWII. If dropped on the hammer it could fire, so leave the chamber under the hammer empty if you keep the gun loaded.
Some target models were made without the S&W logo, some had the S&W markings only on the barrel. There is the small possibility that you have a cheap Spanish copy which may be unsafe to shoot, I recommend you post pics of both sides of the gun for a positive ID.
The original grips would have been hard black rubber or walnut. The rubber grips are prone to cracking with age, so it isn't unusual for them to be replaced.
Value is not high as there were millions of M&Ps made, $250 to $350 is normal for a good to very good condition gun.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ is your best source of spares.
 
cash:
You have a .38/200 British Service Revolver manufactured for the British Commonwealth in 1942. These were the .38 Military & Police revolver chambered for the British .380 Revolver round (originally a 200 grain bullet in a .38 S&W case, hence .38/200).
These guns were made concurrently with the .38 special Victory Model for the USA and often had lend lease markings. Normally the barrel length on the British Service Revolver was 5 inches, measured from the forcing cone to the muzzle, but some 4 inch guns were made.
After the war many BSRs had their barrels cut back & cylinders bored out to accept .38 Special cartridges. Check if yours will chamber a .38 Special. If it does then stick to standard velocity lead ammo only as the chambers will be a loose fit around the case head and there is the chance of split or bulged cases with higher pressure or jacketed ammo.
If in very good condition and unmodified then your gun is probably worth $350 or so. If modified then $150 as there is no collector interest and they aren't great shooters.

Your gun predates the positive internal hammer block safety introduced in 1944. If dropped on the hammer it could fire, so leave the chamber under the hammer empty if you keep the gun loaded.
 
kenjoe45:

That is a cool pair of historic weapons. A couple of decades ago when I was young and poorly informed (guns & ammo magazine was a primary source of learning!) I had the chance to pick up a double action frontier for less than a thousand or a couple of off brand .38 S&Ws for the same money. I took the snubbies because they had more cool factor!
Anyway, the .44 Double Action Frontier chambered in .44/40 was manufactured from 1886 to 1913, with all frames manufactured and stockpiled prior to 1899. Serial range was 1 to 15340.

Your second gun does appear to be a Model No1 2nd issue, it has the flat frame and irregular side plate, square butt, unfluted cylinder and the sights are correct. These were manufactured between 1860 & 1868 in the serial range 11672 to 126361.
 
dalv:
Your Model 34 / Model of 1953 .22/32 Kit Gun was manufactured in 1960. Later that year it was replaced by the Model 34-1 built on the slightly larger .38 sized J frame. Your gun is one of the last built on the smaller .32 sized Improved I frame, hence the .22/32 designation. Modern J frame grips & parts won't fit, if you ever need spares contact http://www.gunpartscorp.com/
 
luckysedem:

Model 629s nanufactured after 1989 with a model number stamped under the yoke of 629-2E or 629-3 have been improved with an 'endurance package' to stop them going out of time when shot with magnum ammo. The 629-4 from 1993 has the frame drilled & tapped under the rear sight so you can mount a scope. Later versions such as the 629-5, 629-6, etc use metal injection molded parts that many shooters consider to be inferior (I don't, but I have had MIM parts break in two guns, so I accept they are not perfect) and from 2001 the internal lock, which has been known to fail and lock up the gun in rare circumstances.
So the 629-4 is probably your best bet if you have an old school preference for forged steel parts & still want reliability.
 
JPG1911:
The Model 65-3 .357 Magnum Military & Police Heavy Barrel was manufactured between 1982 & 1988.
A factory reworked gun will have a star stamp beside the serial number. The serial number should have a three letter prefix followed by four numerals if a late gun, or a serial number in the range 9D44501 to 30D9291 if an early gun. I'm pretty sure the E11 is an assembly number used to track parts in the factory, the other number is probably an assembly number or a departments own armory number. Take off the grips and you will find the serial number stamped on the bottom of the grip frame. If it has been removed from the grip frame then the gun is contraband & I would not buy it. If it hasn't been defaced and is in very good condition then its real value is closer to $250 - $300.
 
Uncle Jim:
You have a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903 5th Change manufactured between 1910 & 1917 in the serial range 102501 to 263000. Caliber is .32 S&W Long. These guns were built on the small I frame, in the event that you need parts you will need to contact Numrich Arms, S&W won't have spares.

Your gun predates heat treatment of cylinders, so stick to standard velocity factory lead loads, no hot handloads. S&W didn't start advertising their guns as safe for smokeless powder until 1909, so don't hotrod the old girl.

It also predates the internal hammer block safety. If dropped on the hammer it could fire. So leave the chamber under the hammer empty if you keep it loaded.

The finish is almost certainly nickel, chrome is a recent development, nickel was a factory option. If the hammer & trigger are nickeled then it has been refinished in the past, S&W color case hardened those parts, giving a straw colored finish.
In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $315 in very good condition.
 
NC12215:
Your Model 10-6 .38 Military & Police Heavy Barrel was manufactured in the period 1963 to 1965. Serial range for those years was C622700 to C810532.
 
MIL-DOT:
Your Model 28-2 Highway Patrolman was manufactured between 1978 & 1980. With a serial number that high 1980 seems probable. The barrel length should be four or six inches, measured from the forcing cone to the muzzle. If you do have a factory three inch barrel it will be a collectors item.
 
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