Hello everyone, I hope I am posting in the right place. I have a .38 special S&W model 10-5 with a 4" barrel, 6 shot cylender, square walnut handles, light scratches where the holster strap snapped down on it. Pistol works great, but having trouble with accuracy. I have been reading some threads and am assuming that it is not an original (.38 S&W special cartriage) since it does take a .38 special cartriage. Would like to know if it has been bored out to recieve the more traditional cartriage that is sold in most stores. The serial # is 2D93XXX. Does anyone know what year this gun was made? And what can I do to make it more accurate? Thanks in advance for your help.
Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers
- Thread starter Brian Williams
- Start date
Hi Radagast, hope the recovery is progressing well.
My request is for a 681-1 4inch SN: AYE2XXX, it has a discrete importers mark and is DAO.
The gun was represented as former property of the Canadian Conservation Officers Service.
Thanks, W.
My request is for a 681-1 4inch SN: AYE2XXX, it has a discrete importers mark and is DAO.
The gun was represented as former property of the Canadian Conservation Officers Service.
Thanks, W.
Radagast
Member
FROGDOG:
Your Model 65-2 .357 Military & Police Heavy Barrel Stainless was manufactured in 1981. The price sounds right to me and I do agree that the three inch version is highly desireable.
Your Model 65-2 .357 Military & Police Heavy Barrel Stainless was manufactured in 1981. The price sounds right to me and I do agree that the three inch version is highly desireable.
Radagast
Member
waidmann:
Your Model 681-1 .357 Distinguished Service Magnum Stainless was manufactured between July & December 1987.
If there isn't an M stamped beside the serial number then it is subject to a recall to install a new firing pin and bushing, which will prevent primer flow back into the bushing, locking up the cylinder. S&W will pay shipping both ways if you decide to take them up on this.
I suggest you sign up at www.canadiangunnutz.com and ask about its background there, its the Canadian version of The High Road.
I'm recovering slowly with a few problems, but considering I went from paraplegic to walking in two weeks I'm not going to complain too much.
Your Model 681-1 .357 Distinguished Service Magnum Stainless was manufactured between July & December 1987.
If there isn't an M stamped beside the serial number then it is subject to a recall to install a new firing pin and bushing, which will prevent primer flow back into the bushing, locking up the cylinder. S&W will pay shipping both ways if you decide to take them up on this.
I suggest you sign up at www.canadiangunnutz.com and ask about its background there, its the Canadian version of The High Road.
I'm recovering slowly with a few problems, but considering I went from paraplegic to walking in two weeks I'm not going to complain too much.
Radagast, I have always seen progress to be a welcome friend in these matters and I am happy for yours.
There is an M stamped above and right of the M681-1 in the crane recess. The serial number is found only on the butt.
I assume I'm covered. Thanks for the additional info.
There is an M stamped above and right of the M681-1 in the crane recess. The serial number is found only on the butt.
I assume I'm covered. Thanks for the additional info.
Radagast
Member
manny523:
Your Model 10-5 .38 Military & Police tapered barrel was manufactured in 1978. It is an original .38 special; after 1957 the .38 S&W guns were marked as the Model 11.
To improve on accuracy try diferent ammunition. the 158 grain lead round nose or 148 grain wadcutter loads from Winchester should shoot close to point of aim and tend to offer consistent accuracy.
Use this target to find out if it is you and not the gun:
http://www.is-lan.com/challenge/images/Pistol-Correction.pdf
There is also the possibility that there is something wrong with the gun. In the 1970s S&W was owned by a conglomerate (Bangor Punta) and quality control suffered on some of their guns. there were cases of guns leaving the factory with no rifling in the barrel or no forcing cone.
If changing ammo and checking your own shooting doesn't help then ask a -good- shooter to test fire it for you. if its all over the place then it may simply be a poor product.
Your Model 10-5 .38 Military & Police tapered barrel was manufactured in 1978. It is an original .38 special; after 1957 the .38 S&W guns were marked as the Model 11.
To improve on accuracy try diferent ammunition. the 158 grain lead round nose or 148 grain wadcutter loads from Winchester should shoot close to point of aim and tend to offer consistent accuracy.
Use this target to find out if it is you and not the gun:
http://www.is-lan.com/challenge/images/Pistol-Correction.pdf
There is also the possibility that there is something wrong with the gun. In the 1970s S&W was owned by a conglomerate (Bangor Punta) and quality control suffered on some of their guns. there were cases of guns leaving the factory with no rifling in the barrel or no forcing cone.
If changing ammo and checking your own shooting doesn't help then ask a -good- shooter to test fire it for you. if its all over the place then it may simply be a poor product.
Radagast
Member
Waidmann:
I assumed the serial number would be duplicated under the crane. Silly me. The M for modified stamp is always under the yoke cut out, not on the bottom of the grip, so you are good.
I assumed the serial number would be duplicated under the crane. Silly me. The M for modified stamp is always under the yoke cut out, not on the bottom of the grip, so you are good.
Radagast
Member
JCisne32:
Your grandfather has a post war .38 Military & Police revolver manufactured between 1954 & 1956. Serial range for those years was C277555 to C402923. In 1957 S&W adopted model numbers and the .38 M&P was designated the Model 10. The number 6735 is an assembly number used to track parts in the factory, it has no meaning after the gun is assembled and is not recorded by S&W.
The frame is the medium K frame, modern after market grips will fit, but there have been many minor engineering changes over the last 66 years, so if spare parts are ever required you will need to source them from a second hand parts supplier such as Numrich Arms.
If the nickel finish was done S&W and is in good shape then the gun is probably worth around $350, if in poor condition or not done to factory standards, then probably $250, assuming that it is mechanically OK and passes the how to check out a revolver stickied thread.
If nickeled by S&W there will be a star stamped beside the serial number and the hammer and trigger will be color case hardened, not nickeled.
Your grandfather has a post war .38 Military & Police revolver manufactured between 1954 & 1956. Serial range for those years was C277555 to C402923. In 1957 S&W adopted model numbers and the .38 M&P was designated the Model 10. The number 6735 is an assembly number used to track parts in the factory, it has no meaning after the gun is assembled and is not recorded by S&W.
The frame is the medium K frame, modern after market grips will fit, but there have been many minor engineering changes over the last 66 years, so if spare parts are ever required you will need to source them from a second hand parts supplier such as Numrich Arms.
If the nickel finish was done S&W and is in good shape then the gun is probably worth around $350, if in poor condition or not done to factory standards, then probably $250, assuming that it is mechanically OK and passes the how to check out a revolver stickied thread.
If nickeled by S&W there will be a star stamped beside the serial number and the hammer and trigger will be color case hardened, not nickeled.
FROGDOG
Member
Radagast, thanks for the response. That manufacture date was earlier than I thought, but good news. Hope you have a speedy recovery, and may someday Austrailia get their guns back. Americans should take note as to what can happen here.
Hello Radagast;
Thanks for the thread. The rifling is clearly evident in the barrel. Don't know what force cone is, but will research and check.
Thanks for the ammo info and the target. Will get back with results after trying the wadcutters. Thanks again.
Thanks for the thread. The rifling is clearly evident in the barrel. Don't know what force cone is, but will research and check.
Thanks for the ammo info and the target. Will get back with results after trying the wadcutters. Thanks again.
jehowell8575
Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2008
- Messages
- 2
Radagast - Thanks very much for the info and instructions. Best wishes for a speedy recovery. I hope the other guy got it much worse...kidding.
Radagast
Member
manny523:
The forcing cone is the extension of the barrel through the frame, just in front of the cylinder. The bullet jumps across the gap between the cylinder and the cone, the bevel of the cone helps to catch the bullet and force it into the barrel. If there is no cone and the cylinder is slightly out of alignment then the bullet will be partially hitting the frame and shaving lead as it passes.
This is a _very_ rare problem, I point it out mainly to show that S&W quality control wasn't perfect during that period.
I'm betting that ammo and a little coaching will help solve your problem. I've shot one inch groups with Winchester 158 grain lead round nose at 25 meters and three inch groups at 15 meters with a cheap off brand. Quality does help.
The forcing cone is the extension of the barrel through the frame, just in front of the cylinder. The bullet jumps across the gap between the cylinder and the cone, the bevel of the cone helps to catch the bullet and force it into the barrel. If there is no cone and the cylinder is slightly out of alignment then the bullet will be partially hitting the frame and shaving lead as it passes.
This is a _very_ rare problem, I point it out mainly to show that S&W quality control wasn't perfect during that period.
I'm betting that ammo and a little coaching will help solve your problem. I've shot one inch groups with Winchester 158 grain lead round nose at 25 meters and three inch groups at 15 meters with a cheap off brand. Quality does help.
MIL-DOT
member
Hey again,Radagast,I also am happy to see you're still with us 
, hope all is well, and remains so.
Meanwhile, I just picked up a S&W model 15-4 ( blue, 4" ) from Mark at Summitgunbroker ( cool dude, great operation !!! ). It's virtually show-room new, as advertised !!
As I understand it dates from around the late 70's-early 80's but a more precise date is always nice. The serial number is 84K29**.
Thanks again for helping us all with these questions.....M
, hope all is well, and remains so.Meanwhile, I just picked up a S&W model 15-4 ( blue, 4" ) from Mark at Summitgunbroker ( cool dude, great operation !!! ). It's virtually show-room new, as advertised !!
As I understand it dates from around the late 70's-early 80's but a more precise date is always nice. The serial number is 84K29**.
Thanks again for helping us all with these questions.....M
Hey guys! I just bought a smith and wesson from the local gun store, always wanted one like my dad's old smith I was just wondering when it was made. got it for $350. any idea what it is worth?
a) .38 spl model 36 (no dash)
b) 3" barrel length. nickel plated
c) round butt - checkered wood stocks
d) 5 chamber cylinder
e) fixed sights
f) S/N J 1215XX
g) J-Frame
thanks for your help!
I was just wondering when it was made. got it for $350. any idea what it is worth?a) .38 spl model 36 (no dash)
b) 3" barrel length. nickel plated
c) round butt - checkered wood stocks
d) 5 chamber cylinder
e) fixed sights
f) S/N J 1215XX
g) J-Frame
thanks for your help!
Radagast
Member
MIL-DOT:
I 'm jealous! A mint Model 15 to go with my model 18-3 is high on my list of desirable toys.
Unfortunately the only Model 15s available here in OZ are rather well worn police trade ins.
Your Model 15-4 K38 Combat Masterpiece dates to 1980.
I 'm jealous! A mint Model 15 to go with my model 18-3 is high on my list of desirable toys.
Unfortunately the only Model 15s available here in OZ are rather well worn police trade ins.
Your Model 15-4 K38 Combat Masterpiece dates to 1980.
MIL-DOT
member
Thanks again, R !!!
Radagast
Member
ahowardmd:
Your Model 36 Chiefs Special was manufactured in 1973 or 1974. Serial range for those years was J100000 to J250000.
I think you paid the going rate, in 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $375 in excellent condition. With the factory rebates on alloy J frames at the moment I would expect the current price of second hand guns to have dropped a bit.
Your Model 36 Chiefs Special was manufactured in 1973 or 1974. Serial range for those years was J100000 to J250000.
I think you paid the going rate, in 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $375 in excellent condition. With the factory rebates on alloy J frames at the moment I would expect the current price of second hand guns to have dropped a bit.
Thanks Rad! I appreciate the information.
heavyshooter
Member
I just purchased a Smith and Wesson 27-2.
The serial# N219XXX
The serial# N219XXX
Last edited:
Paladin38-40
Member
New acquisitions
Glad you are getting better and thanks for this interesting helpful thread!
a.357
b.4" pinned
c.sq.
d.6
e.adjustable
f.N823xx
g.28-2
a.38
b.2" pinned
c.round
d.5
e.fixed
f.5062xx
g.36 no dash
Glad you are getting better and thanks for this interesting helpful thread!
a.357
b.4" pinned
c.sq.
d.6
e.adjustable
f.N823xx
g.28-2
a.38
b.2" pinned
c.round
d.5
e.fixed
f.5062xx
g.36 no dash
Last edited:
.38 s&w special ctg
4"
round
6 shot
half moon
248029
there is a B under the crane with the s/n but there aint a B on the butt of the gun, couldnt find a model number.
this gun belonged to my grandfather who bout it off his uncle 30 yr ago and they say it was old then.
4"
round
6 shot
half moon
248029
there is a B under the crane with the s/n but there aint a B on the butt of the gun, couldnt find a model number.
this gun belonged to my grandfather who bout it off his uncle 30 yr ago and they say it was old then.
Radagast
Member
Ballard25:
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change manufactured between 1915 & 1919 in the serial range 241703 to 316648, so 1915/16 seems likely.
Your gun predates heat treatment of cylinders, so it would be prudent to only use standard velocity/ pressure non jacketed ammunition. Avoid jacketed, semi jacketed, PlusP or +P+ rated ammunition as the additional pressure associated with these rounds could result in a damaged cylinder.
Your gun also predates the internal hammer block safety, so if kept loaded you should leave the chamber under the hammer empty. otherwise if dropped the gun could fire.
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change manufactured between 1915 & 1919 in the serial range 241703 to 316648, so 1915/16 seems likely.
Your gun predates heat treatment of cylinders, so it would be prudent to only use standard velocity/ pressure non jacketed ammunition. Avoid jacketed, semi jacketed, PlusP or +P+ rated ammunition as the additional pressure associated with these rounds could result in a damaged cylinder.
Your gun also predates the internal hammer block safety, so if kept loaded you should leave the chamber under the hammer empty. otherwise if dropped the gun could fire.
Radagast
Member
Palladin 38-40:
Your Model 28-2 Highway Patrolman was manufactured in the period 1969-1972. Serial range for those years was N1 to N99999.
Your Model 36 Chiefs Special was manufactured between 1962 & 1969. Serial range for those years was 295000 to 786544.
If the cylinder release latch is flat then the gun is from 1966 or earlier. if the latch is concave then from 1966 or later.
If the grips are original and have an uncheckered diamond around the grip screws then 1968 or earlier. If the grips are original and the checkering runs up to the grip screws then 1968/1969.
I tried to reply to you at .us but the thread had been deleted.
Your Model 28-2 Highway Patrolman was manufactured in the period 1969-1972. Serial range for those years was N1 to N99999.
Your Model 36 Chiefs Special was manufactured between 1962 & 1969. Serial range for those years was 295000 to 786544.
If the cylinder release latch is flat then the gun is from 1966 or earlier. if the latch is concave then from 1966 or later.
If the grips are original and have an uncheckered diamond around the grip screws then 1968 or earlier. If the grips are original and the checkering runs up to the grip screws then 1968/1969.
I tried to reply to you at .us but the thread had been deleted.
Radagast
Member
Ballard25:
S&W duplicated the serial number on the barrel flat on their early guns with a B prefix. This was dropped in later years.
S&W duplicated the serial number on the barrel flat on their early guns with a B prefix. This was dropped in later years.
Radagast
Member
Heavyshooter:
Your Model 27-2 .357 Magnum was manufactured in the period 1974-1977. The last half of the N2xxxxx range was used for model 28s and Model 58s, so I can't guesstimate wether your gun falls early or late in that period - it could be an early or late Model 27 serial number.
Your Model 27-2 .357 Magnum was manufactured in the period 1974-1977. The last half of the N2xxxxx range was used for model 28s and Model 58s, so I can't guesstimate wether your gun falls early or late in that period - it could be an early or late Model 27 serial number.
