Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers

[Radagast]

Garman5:
Finishes at that time were blue or nickel. It's possible that it has been parkerised, which would give it a grey finish. Usually when a blued gun discolors it goes a 'plum' color. Pics will help.

 

[Oyeboten]

Hi Radagast,

They only sold 41493 guns of this model over 33 years.

Meaning, the 5th Model I assume.

I wonder how many 2 Inch versions were made, within the larger 5th Model production?


Wow, that is not a lot, I would have thought they had been more popular or higher production.

Then again, earlier production Safety Hammerless still in fine condition, were probably a ubiquity and were likely enough to satisfy many people who elected to get a used one, over a new one, too I s'pose. Let alone, all the other Makes and Models of small, five shot, .38 S&W Chambering Revolvers of those days or of the wider era.


I sure wish my dad had been into old Guns!


We would go to Gun Shows now and then, in the latter 1950s, and, I remember a lot from those occasions, including how reasonable prices were ( even to my mind at the time! ).


Funny, this little Snubby, say, in 1959, was only roughly 20 years old...


...sigh...

 

[Radagast]

Oyeboten:
Yep, the Fifth Model.

By the end of the production run it was facing competition from the .32 Hand Ejector, .38 Terrier, .32 Regulation Police, .38 Regulation Police, .38 M&P Snubulator (gotta love that word!) & the Colt Pocket Positive & Detective Special.

I guess the stronger swing out cylinder designs would have eaten into its market share, leaving the last stocks to linger on the shelf in much the same way that the large frame top breaks took 15 years to sell off after the last frame was manufactured in 1898 and the M&P was introduced.

Apparently only 15 of the 1.5 inch barrel guns were manufactured, the SCSW doeasn't note production numbers for the two inch guns. I'm inclined to think the two inch barrel and 'bicycle gun' moniker was an attempt to revive sales/clear old frames. A neat marketing gimmick. It would have worked with me.
I'm of a slightly younger vintage, but I can still recall in the early 90s basically mint S&W break tops being sold at Aussie gun shows for around $300 USD based on the exchange rate at the time. Heh, I even passed on a Colonial Police no. three with shoulder stock. Would have been about $1000 USD, but it was three weeks wages at the time.

 

[Garman5]

Garman5:
Finishes at that time were blue or nickel. It's possible that it has been parkerised, which would give it a grey finish. Usually when a blued gun discolors it goes a 'plum' color. Pics will help.


Here you go...tried to get the second shot to show the shiny/mirror like finish. I know this may have been common, but I am used to Blued, Nickel, or Stainless Steel finishes. Thanks.

 

[forindooruseonly]

Hello, I have another couple of revolvers I'd like to know the DOB of.

Smith and Wesson Safety Hammerless
a) .32 S&W
b) 3 inch
c) round
d) 5 shots
e) fixed sights
f) s/n 1885xx

Smith and Wesson 34-1
a) .22 lr
b) 4 inch
c) round
d) 6 shots
e) adjustable
f) 116616

Thanks again!

 

[Radagast]

forindooruseonly:
Your .32 Safety Hammerless 3rd Model was manufactured between 1909 & 1937. Serial range for those years was 170000 to 242981Unfortunately the Standard Catalog of S&W doesn't give a more detailed breakdown of serial numbers by year.
We can however guesstimate based on the 2nd Model production run averaging about 10,000 guns per year that your gun would probably fall into the period 1909 to 1911.
To confirm this would require a factory letter from Roy Jinks at S&W at a cost of $50. Unless you have a rare variant such as a 1.5 or 2 inch barreled gun this probably isn't worth spending the money on.

Your Model 34-1 .22/32 Kit Gun was manufactured between 1960 & 1969. If the cylinder release latch is flat, then 1960 to 1966. If concave in the modern style, 1966 to 1969.
If the grips are original and have an uncheckered diamond around the grip screws then 1968 or earlier.
If the grips are original and have checkering running up to the grip screws then 1968-1969.

 

[Radagast]

Garman5:
I think thats a factory finish, the letter stampings are too sharp for it to have been repolished. I would tend to call that a high gloss blue myself rather than a grey, the close up of the barrel shows a quality polish job on the steel. Think of the difference between the Model 27 & Model 28, both are effectively the same N Frame .357 Magnum, but there was more attention to detail, especially polishing on the M27. M28s tended to look black, M27s tend to look blue/gloss.

 

[bparker22b]

Got one for you:

a) .38 spl
b) 4 inch
c) square?
d) 6 shots
e) Fixed
f) C 1187

Pictures of the weapon are located here:
http://s1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/bparker22b/

 

[Garman5]

Got one for you:

a) .38 spl
b) 4 inch
c) square?
d) 6 shots
e) Fixed
f) C 1187

Pictures of the weapon are located here:
http://s1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/bparker22b/

Don't quote me on this, but it appears to be a .38 Military & Police, Pre-Model 10. According to "The Book", models with that "C" prefix were postwar models produced from 1948-1951. It says the "C" prefix started on March 22, 1948 with C1 and ended in 1951 with C223998, so yours is a 1948 apparently. Everything in my reading points toward that model. I am new to "The Book", so still getting used to getting around in it. I thought I'd cut my teeth on this inquiry, but have someone like Radagast back up my research.

 

[Radagast]

bparker22b:
Garman5 got it right.

 

[Duracell3129]

Help me on my S&W

Here's one for the experts here. Help me on this...

a) .38 special
b) 4 inch bl barrel
c) square butt
d) 6 shot
e) fixed
f) C 566XXX

Inside the crane it says, "MOD. 10-3". I bought the gun several years ago for 100 bucks, and it's finish is in bad shape (I call it my "rat gun"). It had no grips on it, and I bought it specifically for the purpose of turning it into a PPC revolver which I am in the process of now doing. I was thinking that somewhere down the line it was an old police trade-in. I can provide pics if necessary. Thanks again.

 

[Garman5]

Here's one for the experts here. Help me on this...

a) .38 special
b) 4 inch bl barrel
c) square butt
d) 6 shot
e) fixed
f) C 566XXX

Inside the crane it says, "MOD. 10-3". I bought the gun several years ago for 100 bucks, and it's finish is in bad shape (I call it my "rat gun"). It had no grips on it, and I bought it specifically for the purpose of turning it into a PPC revolver which I am in the process of now doing. I was thinking that somewhere down the line it was an old police trade-in. I can provide pics if necessary. Thanks again.

Ok...like the previous one is a .38 Military & Police, Model 10, Change 3. The 3rd change was in 1961 and continued until 1962. There is much more information on this model if you'd like it. Just depends on what you're looking to find out and yes, pictures are always helpful to narrow it down even more.

 

[Radagast]

Duracell3129:
The 10-3 design change referred to a change in the front sight width and the extractor rod thread on the heavy barrel variant, neither of which would effect your rebarrelling it as a PPC gun.

I will point out this is the last of the 4 screw models with the frame screw in front of the trigger guard.They are not particularly rare with a 1/4 million heavy and tapered barrel guns made, so I wouldn't worry too much about converting it.

As Garman5 mentioned, the 10-3 was only produced in 1961 & 1962. The Standard Catalog of S&W gives a combined serial range for those years of C474149 to C622699, so the exact year isn't available.

 

[westsidedeacon]

a).38 special
b) 2"
c) not sure
d) 6 shot
e) fixed
f) C9395XX
g) not sure

 

[the canidian]

looking for a date and price

a) 38
b) 5"
c) round
d) 5
e) fixed
f) 417688
g) on the left side of the barrel it says 38 S&W CTG

 

[Radagast]

westsidedeacon:
Your gun should be stamped with a model number under the cylinder yoke cut out. If a steel frame it will be a Model 10 .38 Military & Police, if an alloy frame a Model 12 .38 Military & Police Airweight. It was manufactured in the period 1966-1967. Serial range for those years was C810533 to C999999,so 1967 seems likely.

The canidian:
You have a .38 Double Action 4th Model manufactured between 1898 & 1909 in the serial range 382022 to 539000. It probably shipped before 1905, as serial numbers in the 486,000 range shipped to American Express Co. in that year.

S&W didn't advertise these guns as being safe for use with modern smokeless gubnpowder unti 1909, so if you choose to shoot it stick to black powder or a black powder substititute such as Goex.

 

[Radagast]

The canidian: In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave the following values:
Very Good $ 200, Fine $215, Excellent $250, Excellent Plus $325, As New $700.

 

[the canidian]

I have two more I am hoping you can tell me about
a) 38 special
b) 5 1/8"
c) round
d) 6
e) fixed
f) 206369
g) on the left side of the barrel it says 38 S&W CTG. on the inside it says 5879

a) 38
b) 4"
c) round
d) 6
e) fixed
f) 228817
g) on the right side of the barrel it says 38 S&W CTG. on the inside it says 7349 9. above that it says G1. the 73499 is stamped in two places

 

[circuitspore]

Regretted selling my last Smith, so picked up another K-frame this weekend. I'm guessing 80's vintage?

a) 38spec
b) 4" heavy barrel
c) square butt
d) 6 shot
e) fixed
f) ACR7691
g) 64-3

Any idea if this revolver will handle +P 38 special?

Thanks!

 

[Bigbore27]

Can't find age

a).38 special
b) 4"
c) not sure
d) 6 shot
e) fixed
f) 372XXX, under the crane it has B372XXX
g) not sure

Where the MOD 10 is on newer issues this gun has 81517?

Sorry for the bad pics, used a phone.

 

[Radagast]

Bigbore27:
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change manufactured between 1920 & 1927. Serial numbers in the 358xxx range shipped in December 1920, so early 1921 seems probable.
Your gun has a heat treated cylinder, so theoretically it should be safe with PlusP or jacketed ammo, but I would avoid both and stick to standard pressure lead loads only for a couple of reasons. 1) S&W do not recommend PlusP in any gun made before 1957 and 2) THR member Saxon Pig who has done a fair bit of experimentation with PlusP & +P+ ammo in earlier guns has stated that prior to 1930 there were still issues with the quality of the steel and its heat treating. I'm inclined to take his advice rather than experiment with my fingers.
Your gun also predates the positive hammer block safety introduced during World War II. If dropped it could potentially fire. If kept loaded it would be prudent to leave the chamber under the hammer empty.

 

[Radagast]

circuitspore:
Your Model 64-3 .38 Military & Police Stainless dates to 1983. Limited use of PlusP ammo should be fine, steel framed S&Ws made after 1957 are OK for occasional use. if you want to feed it a constant diet I would give S&W a call and ask about your specific model.

 

[Radagast]

The canidian:
With the two six shot guns, do they have swing out cylinders?
Is there a V, S C or D stamped on the butt?
Is the stamping on the barrel '.38 S&W CTG' or '.38 S&W Spl. CTG' ?

 

[Bigbore27]

Thanks Radagast, my Dad picked this gun up for a debt of $75... I believe he did well.

 

[the canidian]

the both have swing out cylinders, both of the 6 shots. niether one has any letters on the butt. 228817 hsd .38 S&W CTG on the right side of the barrel. 206369 has 38 S&W special CTG on the left side of the barrel

With the two six shot guns, do they have swing out cylinders?
Is there a V, S C or D stamped on the butt?
Is the stamping on the barrel '.38 S&W CTG' or '.38 S&W Spl. CTG' ?