If you were going to rebuild your loading bench, what would you change/add?

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I'm going to be designing a dedicated shooting bench here in the next few days. At this point I'm going to have a large reloading area, about 31" deep and 47" wide with 12 cubbies for some organizing bins above the main working area.

As the topic says, if you were going to rebuild your loading bench, what would you change/add? Any suggestions or tips would be great.

Thanks
 
- Add deep hanging drawers under the bench top to keep dies, tools, etc. readily accessible yet out of the way and off the bench top (I still can add them to my bench, but should have done it at the time of the build).

- Cup/drink holder mounted on the side of the bench so I can't knock them over (haha, ask me how I know ... good thing the bench top is waterproof :D).

- Add hooks/hangers for frequently used correct size box end/Allen wrenches, etc. near each press to eliminate the "hunt".

- More clamp lights with longer goose neck to place light(s) exactly where you need them without blinding your eyes.

- Small clip fan for reloader comfort

- Snack dispenser (beef jerky, M&Ms, Snickers, etc.) so I don't go hungry.

- Small office type refrigerator for cold beverage so I don't dehydrate. ;)

- Back Shiatsu massager for the chair
 
I would cut my benchtop full of 4" x 6" holes so I couldn't stack so much junk & crap up on top of it!! :D

rc
 
I can "show" you what I did to my sorry beat up bench. More 2x4 in each leg & new drawer faces (looks), Formica top with hardwood edge (no more difficult to clean surface) and more tools.
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RC I hear ya. I mounted all my tools on the left side of my 8' bench, so close together that there's no room for anything but the project in process. The right side still gets loaded with junk.

Features I like:
  • 36" height & 24" depth so I can reach everything including the shelves above.
  • Shelves below are recessed to give me a proper "knee hole" so I can load sitting on my drafting stool.
  • I start rifle by sizing on my Rockchucker on the right.
  • Just swiveling the chair I can prep the sized brass on the Trim Mate (primer pockets) nestled slightly behind the Pro 2000...filling a black bin.
  • Move the stool & the bin full of prepped brass to the far left and trim, chamfer, deburr a whole bin at a time with my Powered Forster.
  • Then finish up on the Hornady Bullet Feeder enhanced RCBS Pro 2000.

My Lyman tumbler has is own separate roost behind me. Note the rubber shelf lining that dampens it....it doesn't move at all. My 10/10 scale has its own leveled shelf in the middle. Refrigerator is on the right.;)

Take away the drawers and tool free side, and I use about half the 8'.

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This angle shows how compacted it is. The trimmer is mounted vertical and uses very little real estate, and the Hornady bullet feeder (black bottom just visible at the top) nested just perfect behind everything.....the whole outfit works efficiently in little space.

One more thing....figure out how much light you need then double it.
 
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I opted to change the rectangular configuration to a (T) configuration. The leg of the (T) allows access from both sides.
 
Wow, your setups are huge. I won't be near that big, but the way you guys have arranged stuff gives me some ideas, thanks.
 
I made mine too deep. I was calling myself making a large work area, but it's actually too deep. I want to put pegboard on the wall behind, but for my short self, I'll have to stretch to reach it. lol
 
I would make it out of 2x3x1/4 rectangular tubing with a 1/4" plate top. 2" butcher block would mount on top. Then I would router 2 slots out of the butcher block and install t-slot rails (like I have now). The bench would be bolted to the concrete floor and leveled with large shims. There would be no such thing as flex. It would have plenty of drawers.
 
There's nothing I would change about my present loading bench. It was my fourth effort and I've been using it since 1970.
 
You will want it larger than 47 inches, think double that, maybe triple it......depth, typically up to two feet max. Storage areas for components need
To be larger than you imagine, and strong enough to handle whatever amount of lead you will have on hand at any given time.

You will also want VERY good lighting, so you can clearly see whatever process yo are doing, especially true when loading powder in small pistol cases
 
Mine is 2' deep by 16' linear feet long in an "L" shape. Drawers would be a nice addition and I plan on adding pegboard to the walls to increase storage.
 
Since my bench now is a small students desk I would opt for bigger and more storage. I am a little cramped with my current set up. I would have better storage for brass. Definatly much bigger though.
 
If you were going to rebuild your loading bench, what would you change/add?

I really enjoy my bench but there is one thing I wish I had done differently.

I should have finished it before I started using it. :banghead: But I just needed to load a few, you know, it won't take long and then I..............oh well, someday.

Seedtick

:)
 
i wish i had pegboard on the back wall. also wish it was at a height where i could stand or sit on a tall stool to work. as it is, it's low so i have to sit in a regular chair and it's not very ergonomic for reloading.
 
Double thick table top. I am adding another 3/4 inch plywood top to the whole top to make it stronger.

Think carefully about the height of the table top. Are you going to stand or sit or do both with a tall stool? You can always add shelves behind and storage space under.
 
The things I like about mine are the bench top covering and the light.
The bench is an old oak drafting table. The guy I bought it from said the covering is available at drafting supply stores for a nominal price. It just lies on top, but now it is bolted down with my press. Very good surface.
The lamp is a Luxo type drafting light. It is the ONLY light I have in my reloading area, but can be set exactly where you want it. It also has the magnifier in the center of the bulb, which frequently comes in handy.
 

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I would add an extension on my main loading bench and in stall a rotating gun vise to make it easier to work on and clean my Thompson's and machine guns.
 
More drawers, and shallower table tops, I think 18-20 inches is all needed and it keeps the clutter down.

Things I liked that I did... I used a piece of homasote (sound insulation found at some home centers) to reduce the vibration and noise travel from my bench (and busy Dillon 650) upstairs to the living space (and the old lady). I also used a chunk of LVL under the formica top where I mounted the bench, if your not familiar LVL (laminated veneer lumber) is really heavy duty plywood used for structural beams, it can often be had by the foot at lumber yards.
 
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