I'm so confused

[Sinsaba]

I'm now the proud owner of a F.LLI PIETTA replica of a 1851 Navy Confederate knock off (i.e. brass frame). I can't believe how quickly Cabela's shipped it to me. I ordered it on Monday and got it today.

I understand the need to reduce the powder charge to reduce stretching of the brass frame. However, I get various figures from vairous sources. They ave a large enough variance that I'm puzzled.

The addendum that Cabela's sent with the pistol says 25 grains of FFFg or less. The basic Cabela's manual for Muzzleloading Rifles, Pistols, and Shotguns says 35 grains of FFFg (no allowance for a brass frame) and the booklet from the manufacturer says 12 - 15 grains of FFFG in one column and in the one next to it it says .8 - 1 grains of FFFG (I think the column heading might be a typo? should be FFFFg?)

What can you all tell me?

 

[dwave]

No, it won't be FFFFg, that is a priming powder and will be stronger than regular FFF or FF powder. I think that 25g would be fine for that gun.

 

[jismay]

For just plinking/ having fun 15-20 grains by Volume of FFFg should be perfect. Do be sure to get the ball seated down on the powder especially with smaller charges.

 

[Ed Ames]

I can't see .8 or 1 grain of anything to do with one of these revolvers... I think the larger NAA companion mini revolver uses 3 grains of 4F to push its 30gr .22 bullet. Don't even try <1gr on a .44 unless you have a way of driving the ball out of the cylinder/forcing cone/barrel. In fact, don't even try it.

Here's what I'd do... start with 25gr and work your way down until you almost run out of swing on the loading lever with your normal mixture of ball, wad and ball, or whatever you use. That's your minimum load. Maybe it'll be 10gr, maybe it'll be 17, maybe it'll be 5... I don't know. No need to go crazy with small loads of course.

Why? As I understand it you don't want to leave any space between the black powder (or substitute) and the ball. Black powder you can apply some pressure to, 777 you just want to seat the ball against, but in each case you want the powder and the ball (or wad) touching.

If you ever want to go below that load, add wad or corn meal or something. But... why bother?

 

[mykeal]

Good advice on minimum loads.

The 35 gr load is really for a steel frame gun, and won't be accurate even in that design. Use 25 gr or less and the gun will provide accurate shots, lots of smoke and noise (ie, fun) and plenty of enjoyment for as long as you can bring it to bear.

 

[JesseL]

I'm guessing that the 0.8 - 1.0 of FFFG is grams not grains. That would translate to roughly 12.5-15.5 grains of powder.

 

[Snaggletooth]

Iveass frame 1851 in .44..Its my most used gun. Ive got a Brass frame .44 in another model. I constantly shoot 25 grains. Ive never stretched a frame yet and have only seen one frame that didn"t hold up. I've still got it. You will enjoy the 1851 if you get real familiar with it. The more you handle it the better. Get to really know it.

 

[Pulp]

I usually shoot mine with 30 grain loads, but a a Cowboy Action shoot awhile back I was running low on BP, so I switched to a 20 grain spout for my flask. I really couldn't tell any difference in recoil, BOOM or anything else. And it still hit targets too.

 

[Mike 56]

I shoot a brass frame 1851 from Cabalas mine likes .454 balls with over the power wads and 23gr (38sp case filled level) with fff Goex. When using a wad you don't have to grease the balls but i still do i find that when i do it keeps the fouling really soft.

Mike

 

[timothy75]

The 35gr load is for the 44's, I cant get more than 30gr in my 51. 20gr is a good plinking load while 25-30 is good for defense.