After galling my sizing die. Which, RCBS replaced for free. Great company… A friend recommended using Imperial sizing die wax. I got some on order and I like to know if anyone out there uses it. If you like, or not. If this should eliminate my problem. Thanks…
Imperial sizing die wax
- Thread starter hancjamk
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Robert Palermo /Penn Bullets
member
one of the best for sizing and case forming.
duck911
Member
It's all I use, it's the best, hands down!
Ifishsum
Member
Excellent stuff, a little goes a very long way and one of those tins should last years.
Hondo 60
Member
I've heard (read) a lot about it.
Lotsa guys and gals here like it.
So how do you apply it?
Is it a paste, or more of a liquid?
Lotsa guys and gals here like it.
So how do you apply it?
Is it a paste, or more of a liquid?
calaverasslim
Member
I've tried other, cheaper products, mainly spray on but keep coming back to the Imperial. About 12,000 brass can't be wrong
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
The galding does nothing to the hardened sizing die.
It's just brass stuck to the surface.
All you needed to do was polish out the galded brass with some 600 grit black emery paper in a slotted dowel rod in a drill.
Never tried it, but Copper Solvent bore cleaner would probably take it out in short order too.
rc
dagger dog
Member
It's some GOOOD! stuff, open the tin,swipe the first two fingers and thumb across the surface of the wax, then twril the case between those fingers, slip it into the resizing die and push the handle down, you can probably get 4-5 cases off the inital swipe.
If you really want to experiance how slick Imperial is, you need to try it with carbide dies, it's like snot on a cold brass door knob
If you really want to experiance how slick Imperial is, you need to try it with carbide dies, it's like snot on a cold brass door knob
medalguy
Member
it's like snot on a cold brass door knob
+1 on that!
+1 on that!
I met a guy once that said he used thin, cheap cotton gloves, put a little Imperial on them, then pawed through all his brass with the coated gloves in a big plastic tub. Said it worked great for him, they'd all get a nice thin taste of the lube that way.
454PB
Member
Yes, it's good stuff, but waterproofing grease for leather boots works just as well, is easily available locally, and costs about 1/4 the price. The stuff I use is called "smiling Mink", and is mainly lanolin. I even use it for swaging jacketed bullets, which is really demanding.
JimKirk
Member
The best cost/return item you can use!
Jimmy K
Jimmy K
shooter_from_show-me
Member
Good stuff...it looks like lip balm. And that is how I apply it too. Just take your index and middle finger and make a swipe over the tin can. Usually lube about 3-4 cases before needing another appilcation on my fingers.
Kevin Rohrer
Member
I have tried sprays and greases, but Imperial is The Bomb. It is quick to apply, you need only a tiny amount on a case, and it isn't greasy,
You also need a jar of their Imperial Application Media with Dry Neck Lube for lubing case necks prior to sizing. It doesn't need to be wiped out prior to adding powder and a bullet.
You also need a jar of their Imperial Application Media with Dry Neck Lube for lubing case necks prior to sizing. It doesn't need to be wiped out prior to adding powder and a bullet.
Muttt
Member
I agree. The dry neck lube is excellent. It's in a little container with tiny little ceramic balls. You just dip the neck of the case into the little balls and it applies a thin coat of graphite inside the neck of the brass. You don't have to remove the dry lube before loading and it has no affect on the powder. It's probably one of the best products i've ever used. Not one stuck case since.
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ArchAngelCD
Member.
I will use nothing other than Imperial Sizing Wax for brass resizing. Like said above a small tin lasts for many years, a little goes a long way. Hey, it just works and works very well...
Skip_a_roo
Member
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- May 19, 2008
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I have used Imperial and it works just fine. It will remind you of a small tin of boot mink oil or shoe polish. As a matter of fact, you can use boot mink oil, or clear shoe polish and you will get about the same affect. I applied it with my finger to about every 3rd case for 223. The Hornady One-Shot spray would not work on that caliber for me at all.
I got into a kick a while back to see just what I could use for case sizing lube and found there were many household items that you could use, even bacon grease.
I used Pam, lard, bacon grease, mink oil, synthetic motor oil, lanolin, Lee's water base stuff (YUCK!), clear shoe polish. Even WD40 and Break-Away. All of them worked!
Now that I load on a progressive with a case feeder, it becomes a bit more challenging to get the cases prepared like they need to be. Imperial will not work in this loading scheme unless applied like one poster said, on a glove through a tub.
I chose to use RCBS II lube and a pad. I have had NO problem with this lube and no stuck cases. It is a little more messy but it surely works. But then again, so did everything else I tried!
I got into a kick a while back to see just what I could use for case sizing lube and found there were many household items that you could use, even bacon grease.
I used Pam, lard, bacon grease, mink oil, synthetic motor oil, lanolin, Lee's water base stuff (YUCK!), clear shoe polish. Even WD40 and Break-Away. All of them worked!
Now that I load on a progressive with a case feeder, it becomes a bit more challenging to get the cases prepared like they need to be. Imperial will not work in this loading scheme unless applied like one poster said, on a glove through a tub.
I chose to use RCBS II lube and a pad. I have had NO problem with this lube and no stuck cases. It is a little more messy but it surely works. But then again, so did everything else I tried!
Historian
Member
Well, I think that you get the idea. It's really good stuff. A couple of pointers...as you are applying it to the case, run your finger over the case mouth. That will add just enough to make neck sizing go smoothly. If the stuff gets over heated (hot garage in the summer), it will melt and is hard to use. Solution: just put the tin in the freezer for an hour and you're good to go. I have tried a lot of lubes but Imperial beats them all.
Historian
Historian
Clark
Member
Unless... you start using as a release agent on glass bedding rifles.
Grumulkin
Member
I went through a whole tin of Imperial Sizing Wax in the past year.
From that you can deduce that I like it and that I sized quite a few cases.
From that you can deduce that I like it and that I sized quite a few cases.
ranger335v
Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2006
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- 3,797
Those who fail to put a lube film on the necks of rifle cases will soon have brass galling on the steel and that will result in scratches on case necks. And no matter what case lube we use, if we don't get a good coat on the lower body we will get an occasional firmly stuck case that will take 20 minutes to remove.
I see no effective difference between Imperial Die Wax vs. "Snow Proof" and Kiwi "Mink Oil" boot treatments, all are excellant. I've only used Hornady's "Unique" soft wax lube once but it appeared to be at least as good, maybe a little better than Imperial. ??? Finger tip application when each case is picked up for sizing is the best way to go with any of the soft waxes.
I see no effective difference between Imperial Die Wax vs. "Snow Proof" and Kiwi "Mink Oil" boot treatments, all are excellant. I've only used Hornady's "Unique" soft wax lube once but it appeared to be at least as good, maybe a little better than Imperial. ??? Finger tip application when each case is picked up for sizing is the best way to go with any of the soft waxes.
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