Importance of casting mold brand

[Roland_0105]

I am looking at getting into casting my own bullets. I have the Lyman Reloading Handbook 49th ed, but I was wondering if I can use the load data in that for bullets cast from a Lee mold. Would a 158 gr SWC Lee cause problems when loaded using data based on a 158 gr SWC Lyman? On that same note, would a 115gr HP Hornady require different load data from a 115 gr HP speer Gold Dot? Basically, how much component switching can I do safely? Do I just need to get reloading manuals from each bullet manufacturer?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[wgaynor]

I have the same book and use their data on bullets I cast from Lee's equipment. No problems here.

I also have many other resources to cross reference and double check. Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance.

 

[Davidfl]

I have a lee mold and have used the Lyman data. Just make sure to follow the powder charges correctly. Cross reference our manuals to check on the OAL and the charge.

I have loaded off brand HP bullets with Hornady XTP data before from the Hornady 8th edition Manual. It was fine. Just start on the low end and work up to the higher end. No rushing.

 

[NWcityguy2]

You can do quite a bit of the switching you are talking about without running into trouble. The two most important things are bullet weight and jacketed or cast. So if you are using a 158 grain cast bullet, use 158 grain cast bullet load data. Simple as that. Same with swapping out primers, stick to bullet weight and jacketed/cast.

To make sure you are covered from a safety aspect work up from the reduced load, that is the key. That way should there be a problem you will see it develop as pressure is going up. And if you change out components down the road, work up a new load.

 

[rcmodel]

Buy a Lyman steel mold so you know what a mold is supposed to work like.

I have a couple of Lee aluminum molds, and they are a real PITA to get good bullets out of compaired to any of the Lyman molds I have.

rc

 

[JohnM]

Oh come on RC!
Lyman's a Lee mold are not, but they will cast a good bullet without any fuss.
The 2 cavity Lee's are a satisfactory and inexpensive way to try new bullet types or for that matter for a casual caster to make all the bullets he needs for shooting.

 

[ranger335v]

".. how much component switching can I do safely? Do I just need to get reloading manuals from each bullet manufacturer?"

From all the blarney you see on the web I understand your concern but it's not that big a deal. All reloading data is basically generic for powder type and bullet weight. There are no component changes we can make that will approach the potential for difference that using different guns will have so use whatever data you have that matches your bullet weight and go, such small individual bullet variations that exist are easily taken care of with standard load development methods. If you're concerned, drop .2 to .4 off the max powder charge to be comfortable, getting the last possible few fps possible without a KABOOM isn't worth much and doing it beats up our handguns for no valid reason.

When I started reloading there was very little info available for specific bullets and virtually none for OAL, the lack of either seems to cause some people to break out in a sweat if no book can tell them what to do today; we lived, you will too. In fact, if it required specific data to safely load every individual bullet made there are a LOT of bullets we couldn't safely load! Handguns are typically even less sensitive to bullet swaps than rifles.

The reason we see different book charges for jacketed and lead bullets is the latter can't always be fired at the higher velocities without stripping off the rifling.

 

[Certaindeaf]

.The reason we see different charges for jacketed and lead bullets is the latter can't always be fired at the higher velocities without stripping off the rifling, not safety.

And also so jacketed's don't get stuck in the barrel.

 

[David Wile]

Hey folks,

I have been casting over 50 years, and all of my mould blocks are Lyman or RCBS. About 12 years ago I bought a Lee mould to make 45 bullets for a new 45-70. I know lots of folks swear by Lee moulds, but they simply did not work for me as I might expect from my steel moulds. I spent premium dollars for Lyman and RCBS moulds, but they have lasted all these years and will continue to provide the best service over time. If you take care of good steel moulds, I would say they would last for many lifetimes, but the fact is I really do not see how they would ever really wear out.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile

 

[Duckdog]

I have more molds than I can shake a stick at in both aluminum and steel and they both will throw excellent bullets. What ever you get, take care of it. Personally, I like the aluminum molds. I like the fact that they heat up faster and are much lighter. You get a Lee 6 banger and cat for an hour and them try a steel 6 banger and see what your wrist feels like in an hour!

Get the Lee 2nd edition or Lymans cast bullet books and you'll have everything you need to get into casting and a fun hobby!

 

[kelbro]

About the only difference that I can tell is that I need to get my alloy a little hotter to get the best bullets out of an aluminum mold. Plusses and minuses there. If you get an iron mold too hot, it takes longer to get it back into the correct temperature range. If you wait too long between pours on an aluminum mold, it cools off too much to get good consistent fillout and weights.

Bottom line is that they both work well enough if you learn what they need and make the necessary adjustments to your alloy temp and your casting cadence.

I shoot the same powder charge with my Lyman and Lee molds that are the same weight and they chrono between 50fps of each other.

 

[USSR]

Been casting for almost 35 years. I have moulds made of steel, brass, and aluminum. My personal preference is for brass moulds, followed by steel, and then aluminum, although the custom made 6 cavity Lee mould I have casts just fine.

Don

 

[Duckdog]

I do not own a brass mold, but I do hear good things about them. You're right, once you learn the mold your using, it is almost a beautiful thing. There is nothing better than casting and getting good bullets that are accurate, besides using them for hunting.

It's cast all the way for the most part for me, and I can't say I look back at condom bullets very often.