Improper primer seating slam fire

Status
Not open for further replies.

chas442

Member
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
176
Location
Northeast Illinois
Has anyone ever done any testing on primers that were not seated properly ? It seems that the act of the bolt or slide going into battery would likely seat the primer rather than cause the primer to ignite the powder charge. It is my understanding that the primer compound needs to be crushed against the anvil inside the primer.
It is my understanding that a primer that is sitting too high in the case could be further seated during a firing pin strike that might require a second or third firing pin hit before ignition occurs.
What is the mechanism that would cause the primer to ignite other than a firing pin strike.
 
Since a slam fire (out-of-battery discharge) is not very kind to the rifle and possibly the shooter, I'm going to say nobody is out there trying to deliberately make one happen.

The primer goes off because of the firing pin. Chamber a round in a semi-auto rifle that has a floating firing pin, extract the round and look a the dimple on the primer. There you go. When the primer is not seated firmly, you get inconsistent ignition. Maybe the primer will alter the primer with repeated strikes enough to make it fire, or to make it such that it'll never fire. Or maybe the firing pin will get enough purchase trying to slam the round into the chamber.
 
On a AR it's very hard to get a out of battery fire due to design. BCM keeps the hammer from contacting the FP when the bolt is not closed. If the cartridge is not sized properly it will not fully chamber keeping the bolt from closing. The bolt must be able to close in order for the FP to reach the primer on a AR-15. How much the bolt needs to rotate for the FP is able to contact the primer, actually numbers I don't have. But when a round has problem clambering the bolt is slowed down before it's in full battery, does not make it all the way in. I don't know about a M1.

As far as testing this it will be hard to do due to way its engineered.
 
The safety bridge on the M1/M14 receivers is supposed to keep the firing pin at bay until the bolt is pretty well into locked up. But there are several tolerances which come into play.
 
If the bolt closes, with force, on a "high" primer and the circumstances are just right, the bolt may crush the compound between the cup and anvil, theoretically. I think the primer would more than likely just be forced deeper into the pocket, but it's not something I'm going to experiment with in my guns.Personally I've only had one or two "slam fires" and that was in an AK 74 with Russian surplus ammo and the cases showed a good firing pin strike...
 
I have actually had a slam fire in my Armalite NM AR15 due to a high primer. I was single loading, saw the round had a high primer, and foolishly decided to try and chamber it anyway. I endeavored to try and ease the bolt closed by holding the charging handle. I mustn't have been holding it fully back, and the bolt closed hard and slam fired. The case came apart in the chamber so I'm certain it wasn't fully in battery.

The only damage I could detect was that my iron sight zero moved about 3 minutes right after the incident. About 12-13 clicks left and I was back in business. I still don't understand how or why that happened.
 
As mentioned a slam fire occurs in firearms that have free floating firing pins that are not retained by a return spring or mechanical mechanism until the bolt is fully locked. It can be caused by a combination of things such as a primer that is to soft for that type of action,high primer or dropping a rd. in the chamber instead of letting the bolt strip a rd. from the magazine.

High primers or primer not seated correctly loaded in cartridges other than semi auto rifle with free floating firing pins don't exhibit slam fires but may require one or more strikes from the firing pin to set the primer off. As primer come in different cup hardnesses in some cases a weak firing pin spring or hammer spring can also cause poor primer ignition especially if the primer is of Mil-Spec grade hardness.

A primer on Primers.
http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=6dce7fcfbcedbafd6d16c8bf1ba05a11&topic=56422.0

My SKS rifles all have free floating firing pins,there are some primers even when seated correctly that will slam fire in certain instances,thats why it's critical I seat the primers correctly and check for high primers. As you can see below even when the bolt strips rds. from the magazine the forward momentum of the firing pin when the bolt slams home is still enough to lightly dent the primer. The primer on the end is one example of one you would not want to use.

Picture%20copy_zps3iy2tnir.jpg
 
I had some closed bolt slam fires in an M1 Garand. It had nothing to do with improperly seated primers but with a full length sizing die that didn't move the shoulder back quite enough (as far as I could tell).
 
On two occasions I've had what I've concluded were high primers.....but I didn't get slam fires with them. (I wasn't testing to see if they would slam fire. After thinking about happened I've concluded they were seated high.)

In each case I got a misfire: Just a click upon pulling the trigger. I extracted the cartridge and the primer had a very slight dimple. All looked cool - so I rechambered and in each case they fired on the second pin strike.

I'm pretty convinced the first fire pushed the primer deeper in the pocket.....which enabled the second firing to be successful.

I'm now more diligent about ensure full primer seating.
 
So in a nut shell, A "high" primer is probably only a potential inconvenience more so than a problem. A slam fire in a rifle with a floating firing pin can occur if the primer is seated below deck or sitting proud. It would be dependent on primer construction rather than location. The only time primer seating truly becomes an issue is when loading for a revolver as it may make it difficult or impossible to close the cylinder.
The reasons I brought up primer seating depth are two fold.
1. I was at a range last week working up loads for two stock hammer spring bolt action rifles. I believe I was using the wrong primers. Occasionally I was experiencing misfires on the first primer strike but would go off on the second or third hit. I hand prime all cartridges that I load. I have been doing this for at least 20+ years. I know when a primer is properly seated. These primers were Russian 223 primers designated to be the equivalent of 5.56 primers.
2. I have always been led to believe that Hi primers can cause slamfires and erroneously took that as gospel till my last range session as it got me thinking about primer depth.

As a side note. I contacted The manufacturer of CCI primers and asked about different primer comparative charges. The tech that responded stated that #41 and #34 primer charges were equivalent to magnum charges. The tech also responded that the anvil is built with different angles in their #41 and #34 primers. This was done to minimize the possibility of a slamfire in a military weapon.

To all those that responded, thanks for your input.
 
Last edited:
I've been stewing on the conclusions posted in #11 since I read them. I think that the spirit of internet reloading forums is to never post practices that could be potentially dangerous to the uninformed public. I think that these conclusions are exactly that.

To quote Slamfire in the thread linked by Walkalong in #10:

"Chances of a slamfire are small, but the negative consequences are high. So you have to balance out the composite risk in your favor. For safety's sake, you must pay more attention to Garand ammunition reloading practices than for any other type of mechanism."

First, I'm surprised that Slammy hasn't chimed in on this topic. I hope that he is OK.

Second, I'm kind of grateful that you started this thread as it gave me an opportunity to examine my own reloading practices and what might have caused the incident I related in #6. And for Walkalong too for reminding us of the previous thread with Slamfires very detailed response.

So in a nut shell, A "high" primer is probably only a potential inconvenience more so than a problem. A slam fire in a rifle with a floating firing pin can occur if the primer is seated below deck or sitting proud. It would be dependent on primer construction rather than location. The only time primer seating truly becomes an issue is when loading for a revolver as it may make it difficult or impossible to close the cylinder.
The reasons I brought up primer seating depth are two fold.
1. I was at a range last week working up loads for two stock hammer spring bolt action rifles. I believe I was using the wrong primers. Occasionally I was experiencing misfires on the first primer strike but would go off on the second or third hit. I hand prime all cartridges that I load. I have been doing this for at least 20+ years. I know when a primer is properly seated. These primers were Russian 223 primers designated to be the equivalent of 5.56 primers.
2. I have always been led to believe that Hi primers can cause slamfires and erroneously took that as gospel till my last range session as it got me thinking about primer depth.

Firstoff, a high primer is exposed in a greater fashion to the firing pin of weapons with a floating firing pin, which increases the opportunity for both a harder and deeper contact if/when that happens when the bolt slams home. High primers occur for one of 3 reasons, 1) primer is not seated to the bottom of the pocket, 2) debris or another obstruction precludes it from getting to the bottom, and 3) the primer was seated crooked.

As we know, the proper way to seat a primer is to seat it to the bottom of the primer pocket to push the anvil up into contact with the pellet. If this is not accomplished, a misfire may occur. As you noted with you bolt gun experience the firing pin strike sometimes seats the primer deeper and allows it to fire on a subsequent try. However, I think that it is unwise to assume that such a high seated primer will never ignite. Extrapolating your experience with boltguns to semi-autos with a floating firing pin is not valid.

A high primer caused by an obstruction in the pocket could have the anvil sufficiently pushed up into the pellet. Likewise, a crooked primer could have one leg of the anvil properly seated and also allow ignition.

I feel strongly that your nutshell conclusion should have said: High primers greatly increase the chances of a misfire in semi-auto rifles with a floating firing pin. Never chamber a round with a high primer in those rifles.

The example I related in my AR15 obviously tweeked something in my rifle due to the POI change I experienced. I also had a second slamfire in my M-Forgery later that year without any apparent damage. Those were the only slamfires I have ever experienced after shooting probably 20,000 rounds through 3 different AR's. The common denominator in both instances was that I had recently started loading my .223 ammo on a Dillon 550B. I'm using CCI 400's which have worked for me without incidence until this point.

I plan to double check all of the previously loaded .223 and 30-06 ammo that I have for high primers. Maybe I should consider mil-spec primers also. For the safety of my rifles, especially my Garands, which I deeply love. I kind of like my face too!
 
had some closed bolt slam fires in an M1 Garand. It had nothing to do with improperly seated primers but with a full length sizing die that didn't move the shoulder back quite enough (as far as I could tell).
I doubt insufficient shoulder set back was the problem.

Even with the fired then resized case shoulder pushed forward a thousandth or two (happens in partial full length sizing all the time), the bolt will still close on them normally. Hatcher reported the force of semiauto rifle bolts closing on .30-06 rounds in a military chamber at minimum spec set their shoulders back several thousandths before the round fired. That would overcome a full length sized case sized a bit long in headspace and its shoulder would be set back upon the bolt closing into battery. This assumes the firing pin safety shoulder in the receiver bridge stopped firing pin forward movement until the bolt was 90% or more into battery fully closed.
 
Last edited:
I have Tula in my hunting rounds. We just finished up a two week hunt where I was using two rifles. My AR15 didn't get a round fired from it but was chambered with the same round several times. There is a nice little dimple mark on that one round but I didn't get a slam fire on it.
 
I read in my reloading manuals when I was first starting out that primers were supposed to be below flush. Ive never seated a primer without checking it, if there was any question the primer was reset as much as required to get it seated correctly, or mashed in with whatever force it required, or the case scrapped if it wouldnt take a primer properly. Im really surprised at how many people never took that instruction literally. Do people really reload shells and not check every single primer for proper depth? I cant think of that as anything less than sloppy and negligent work. It REALLY reinforces the refusal of shooting anyone elses reloads.
 
I wonder how many people think they got slam fires when they actually got a hammer to disengage while slamming the bolt forward. You would NEVER KNOW if your trigger assembly let go for some reason.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top