Inexpensive Pietta Cylinder Fix for Nipple Seating Problem

[ElvinWarrior]

Hey Guys...

I have this pair of F. LLI. Pietta 1863, .310 Caliber, 5 Shot, Remington Pocket Pistols, that from the factory had a problem with the depth the #10 nipples were set into the revolving cylinder.

The nipples, were, inset into the cylinder too deeply, and when the pistols were fired, half the time, the hammer would not strike the caps with enough force to ignite the powder charge.

It occured to me, after looking at and measuring the distances carefully, that the nipples were inset too deeply into the cylinders by about 1/32 of an inch.

As a test, I backed the nipples out, away from the cylinders a little distance of approximately 1/32 of an inch, and VIOLA, all cylinders now fired reliably and consistantly.

So... I toddled my lil butt down to home depot, and surveryed their small hardware section looking for some sort of item I could use as a spacer. I came across some very thin, and small, snipped #8 lock washers, in 30 packs, for $1.29, and I picked up a couple packs.

I spread, the snipped washers open, with needle nosed pliers, fitted them over the end of the nipples, and pressure fitted them down onto the base of the nipple for a firm, and locking fit. I then threaded them back into the cylinder.
The fit was a bit tight, and snug, but they did seat all the way down very nicely, sealing the chambers well, raising up all nipples, on all chambers, the needed 1/32 of an inch.

It works BEAUTIFULLY, and is CHEAP AS HELL.

I just thought I would pass that on, in case, any other Pietta owners out there may be having similar problems with their revolver(s), which apparently, Pietta is a bit nortorious for.

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David

 

[arcticap]

Hellgate posted about how he uses wire to shim nipples that are too short.

...Take soft steel, bronze or copper wire and wrap it around and around a nail, screw or drill rod to create what looks like a coiled spring (about 10 wraps). Take wire cutters or tin snips and cut the "spring" length wise. This will make a bunch of open circle wires that look like little lock washers. Then either use them as is by putting them around the shank of the nipple and seat the nip into the cylinder or if the wire is too thick then gently pound them flatter with a small hammer on an anvil (vise) or flat sheet of metal. I typically use small soft bailing wire but copper works ok if you flatten it. Using it as is will likely result in a loose nipple if the copper gets flattened by repeated hammer blows to the nipple. Remember to put anti-seize lube on the nipple threads once you get the right fit and snug them in. I almost never take the nipples out again unless I'm having problems again.
It only takes a few thousandths of thickness to get reliable ignition from the shim so I pretty much hammer all the shims flat. They open up in diameter when you do that too. Once you've done a few it's a piece of cake.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4457819&postcount=10

...You can scrounge for softer wire or go to a hardware store or maybe even a hobby shop and you'll find small blister packs on a rack of varying gauges of copper and brass wire. House wire is too thick. I would guess that about half of my C&Bs have one or more shimmed nipples....

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4458917&postcount=19

 

[ElvinWarrior]

Articap,

That sounds like a much better method !!! I think I am going to replace all of mine using his techinque !!!

Thanks for the "heads up" !!!

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David

 

[scrat]

Elvin Welcome to THR

 

[ElvinWarrior]

Thanks Scrat !!!

Glad to be here !!!

Sincerely,

ElvinWarrior... aka... David