Installing a Smith mount on the M1a - (ie., Competent Gunsmiths in the Denver Area?)

[NickEllis]

The Smith 7'' scope mount just arrived. However, they suggest that a competent gunsmith should install the mount (especially as it requires the removal of the rear sight, something I've never done).

Should I take it in to a smith? Or is it easy enough to install the Smith mount that its not necessary? In the case of the first, would anyone know of a good smith in the Denver area competent to work with the M14 platform?

Thanks,

Nick

 

[TIMC]

I would take it to a gun smith if you are not mechanically inclined.
You do not remove the rear sight but you must remove the stripper clip guide. This requires you remove the stock and bolt. After the the stock and bolt are removed then you need to drive out the roll pin holding the stripper clip guide. I did mine but it is not the easiest thing to do. After the stripper clip guide is removed then you need to make sure you install the mount correctly and level it with the barrel.
here are some close up pics of the Smith mount on my M-21. Mine is the shorter version but the mount the same.

 

[NickEllis]

Here are the instructions from Smith:



I'm trying to figure out why they say I need to take out the rear sight.

 

[TIMC]

It does say on step (9) to remove the rear sight but there is no need to do that. As you can see from the top picture I posted the mount comes nowhere near the rear sight. I did not remove the rear sight on mine when I installed the mount.

 

[NickEllis]

Well, thats just fine with me. I don't see much trouble in the majority of those instructions except for the removal of the rear site. I don't think driving out the dovetail should be all too difficult.

Thanks,

Nick

 

[TIMC]

It is not too hard to do. The only problem you will run into is the roll pin for the stripper clip guide is at an angle so it makes it a little difficult to hold the punch and drive it out. Just take your time.

Good luck.

 

[Onmilo]

I did not remove the rear sight on my rifle either.
The only reason I could see for doing this is you are planning to use a large eyepiece scope on low rings and the rear sight would interfere with installation of the scope.

 

[NickEllis]

Thanks for the guidance. I'll hopefully post picks when its done (with luck, tonight!)

Nick

 

[GunTech]

The only thing I can think of is you've got the 7 inch mount. Does it come back farther than the stock SEI?

I sent you a PM. Let me know how it goes.

Tod

 

[NickEllis]

I didn't need to remove the rear sight, actually, which was a relief. However, when set with a level the mount is on a bit of a downward slope in comparison with the receiver (not more than a few degrees, however).

Should I use the forward set screw to adjust the elevation of the mount, or should I just allow the forward set screw to come into contact with the receiver, and then adjust elevation with the scope?

Thanks,

Nick

 

[GunTech]

Is it really several degrees? Just tighten everything up. 20-30 MOA is fine and in fact desireable in a long range scoupe mount.

Make sure the mount is flush against the receiver. Some SA receivers are out of spec and the mount may not clamp perfectly. If everything went together OK, you should be fine.

Worry if you can't zero at 200 yards.

 

[NickEllis]

Should the front of the rail touch the handguard? I can crank it up a bit with the forward screw, but don't get the feeling that should be the way to do it.

Nick

 

[GunTech]

If everything is tight, tighten the front screw until it's taut. Everything should feel solid.

I have a Sadlak on mine, but it basically the same Brookfield design. Here's a couple of older photos.

 

[NickEllis]

Not the best pictures, unfortunately, but here she is.

The Smith seems like a wonderfully solid mount, but I haven't' had it out to the range yet.

The only concern I would have with the 7'' mount is that it limits the amount of rear adjustment available for the scope. In prone position, its exactly where it needs to be for me, on the forward edge of the Karsten cheek riser. However, if one needed the head to rest a bit further back, I don't think I could adjust the scope any further without the bell touching the end of the mount. I'm within a couple millimeters as it is.

Thanks especially to Guntech for providing an exceptional amount of help on this project, out of the goodness of his heart.

Now we'll see if she can shoot...

 

[Superpsy]

wow gaiudo...that m1A sure looks different with glass on it...looks good!

 

[NickEllis]

I'm heading to the range this afternoon to see how she groups. Finding a place in Denver is a bit of a pain... I need to join that wildlife hunters association Billll was talking about.

 

[TIMC]

She's looking good!
Just make sure the mount is in the groove on the side of the receiver and you should be good. You should have a little play to level the mount with the front screw before you tighten the side bolt. What you can't correct on the mount you should be able to make up the difference with the scope.
I also used a little blue locktight on the screws to make sure they stay tight.

 

[GunTech]

Gaiudo,

If you replace the rubber butt with a military steel one, you'll shorten the length of pull by about an inch, allowing you to mount the scope farther forward.

I find the rubber butt makes the stock too long for me.

Note the difference in the butt:

 

[NickEllis]

Tod,

Great thought. I've actually got a military steel one downstairs on a junk stock, I'll switch that one and see if it makes a difference.

I've also thought of reaming a horizontal slot in the Karsten at the appropriate spot along the vertical slots, allowing both a dedicatedly solid location to lock in the cheek riser, as well as allowing me to move the cheekriser about half an inch further forward. Between the two of those I should be getting pretty close.

Nick

PS - Observation A: the added weight on the receiver significantly reduces felt recoil for me.

 

[NickEllis]

I swapped a military steel buttplate for the rubber one from SA. I also cut horizontal grooves in the Karsten cheekplate at exactly the spot I have optimal eye-relief. This not only made my position returnable and very stable, but also gave another half-inch or so of eye-relief towards the scope, as the 7'' Smith mount keeps me from moving my scope any further towards the rear.



The cheek-piece when in position:





I hit the range this afternoon, and after boresighting it got on paper at 50, and then estimated for 100 yards.

First group, I shot a four round group high left, then came down half a minute, and then right a minute.



To finish out, wanting to verified the stability of the mount, I shot a forty round group. As you can see, I've got a tendency to pull the rifle right a minute. All the fliers were called (with copious amounts of curses and profanities, especially that 2MOA high left one!), and were very much my fault. It was good both to see where I need to work, and also the accuracy of the rifle. Never shot much benchrest, but I could see where it could get addicting, to try and squeeze every bit of accuracy out of the rifle!



Now I'm figuring out to how reset the knobs on my scope to 0x0 windage/elevation. Once thats done, I think I'll be ready to take it to the field. I'll hit the range once more before then to make sure nothing shifts.


Thanks for all the advice.

Nick