Interchanging brass between M1A and Bolt?

[shilo]

I loaded some brass that was fired out of my M1A. Using 175 gr SMK. COL is 2.820". Full length sizing.

Now these wont let me close the bolt on my Rem 700 VTR. But they will let the action close on the m1A if i let it slam forward. Then upon pulling the slide back to eject it, its a little tighter than normal. When i used new brass, they feed into both rifles correctly.

Im guessing im going to have to keep the brass and loaded ammo seperate between the two rifles? I really only want to have one pile of ammo. But why are they hard(ish) to eject from the M1A?

Thank you
-shilo

 

[rcmodel]

Full-length sizing it properly before reloading it might help.

Then it will fit either rifle just like factory ammo!

You are getting enough press frame flex and linkage slop now that you are not really full-length sizing.
You need to screw your sizing die down until it is firmly in contact with the shell holder.

Then screw it down another 1/4 - 1/2 turn until you can feel the press linkage "bump" over at full ram travel.

Then, you will truly be Full-Length sizing, and the ammo will fit both rifles just like the "new brass" loads, or factory ammo.

rc

 

[shilo]

I screwd the sizing die down till it touched the shell holder. But if i remember correctly when i tried screwing it down an extra 1/4 turn it wrinkled the case. But thats been awhile. So latley i just been making them touch, no extra turns. I will try it again and see whats going on. thank you

 

[rcmodel]

1/4 turn is not set in stone.

Each press has different linkage slack and such.

Just turn it down whatever it takes until you can feel the press "bump" over center and it should do the trick.

No reason it should cause the brass to wrinkle unless you are getting oil dents from too much case lube.

rc

 

[USSR]

Keep screwing your die down until the resized case fits your boltgun. Then, lock it in place and you will be able to produce ammo that fits both rifles.

Don

 

[shilo]

thanks guys. This place is quick! i will go try some now. let yal know in a few

 

[shilo]

ok i just resized 40 pieces of brass to fit the bolt gun. i tightend the sizer about a half turn past touching the shell holder. As i went through the brass it seemed some of them were really hard to size. I really had to put some muscle into the ram. I use hornady oneshot case lube. I loaded with 42 grns of R15 and 175 grn SMK. I set the bullet depth to 2.820" I measured each loaded round after seating and had a 20/1000 variance! they were between 2.813 to 2.833. The die was tight and nothing was changed or moved. Why would it do this? Also i chambered each round into the rifle and 5 or the 40 wouldnt chamber. seems theres a slight bulge at the bottom of the shoulder on those.

I have never had problems like this with .223, 7mag, 7stw, or 300 RUM. Im new to .308 and not liking it!

 

[rcmodel]

Any chance you have the seater/crimper die set so low it is crimping the cases by accident and causing a slight shoulder collapse.
Maybe so slight you can't even see it.
That will cause length variation, and some of them not to chamber in a tight chamber.

Even if intentionally crimping, you will have the same problem unless all the cases are trimmed to the exact same length.

rc

 

[shilo]

that is defineately a possibility. I had about a 16th of a inch between the shell holder and the die body. Should i try a tad more? 8th inch? The length variation is driving me crazy. But that sounds completely logical now. And i didnt trim any of the brass. I usually let them go a few times before i trim it. thank you

 

[Slamfire]

Use a small base die and set the thing up with a Wilson type headspace gage. And size to gage minimum.


This will make your ammo interchangeable with 99% of your 308 rifles.

And you need to use a better sizing lube. Yours is inadequate. I use RCBS water soluble, and I can also recommend Imperial Sizing wax.

 

[rcmodel]

had about a 16th of a inch between the shell holder and the die body.

Crimp setting is not measured in inches.

To properly adjust the seating die so it does not crimp.

1. Put a sized empty case in the shell holder.
2. Run the ram up.
3. Screw the seating die down until you feel the crimp shoulder of the die contact the case neck.
4. Back the die off 1/2 turn or so.
5. Lock the lock ring.
6. Now, adjust the bullet seating stem for proper seating depth & lock the lock-nut.

rc

 

[shilo]

wow. that sounds so simple. I dont know why i havent been doing that. Maybe Because the dang Nosler reloading manual told me to make a 1/16" gap. Ill try that method next. Gotta find the rest of my 308 brass. Thank you again

 

[rcmodel]

If that in fact is the cause of the problem.
It might indicate that your brass is all different lengths and need trimming.

Your .308 cases should not exceed 2.015" or they might run into the end of the chamber on your tight chambered Rem bolt-gun.

Suggest you measure the cases and if they exceed that length, trim them all to 2.005" so they are all the same.

rc

 

[USSR]

I set the bullet depth to 2.820" I measured each loaded round after seating and had a 20/1000 variance! they were between 2.813 to 2.833.

That's about twice the COAL variance that I would expect. The reason you get this variance at all is because of the variance of the ogive location in relation to the bullet tip. Even Sierra MatchKing bullets will vary by up to .010" in this measurement.

Don

 

[shilo]

Ok i shot 40 rounds today. had about a 5 to 10 mph tailwind. Best groups were around an inch @100 yards. Maybe a tad less. Not as good as i was expecting. Now this was a brand new rifle. I shot 1 round, cleaned it. shot two more with time in between shots to cool barrel and cleaned it. Shot a few more and cleaned and so on. The barrel never got hot to the touch. Max shots between cleaning was maybe 4 or 5 max. I was fully expecting less than an inch. more like .5"