Is it worth reloading 357 magnum?

So from what I’m seeing: Popping them out in the turret press like the 38 should yield about the same relative accuracy as being painstakingly ridiculous with specs as I am with rifle rounds?

Yes, accuracy should be about the same once the load is developed.

You could use a good bullet for hunting, and the RN for practice ammo. As long as they are both the same weight, they should shoot very close as far as POA?POI at normal handgun distances. If he plans on shooting at 50 yards or more, POI may change significantly, but at 25 yards or so a well placed shot should do the trick. Remember that you have a 4-6" kill zone on a deer, so an inch up/down or left/right won't make any difference provided the right bullet is used.

And as a bonus, you'll get to spend time with your father at the range testing and developing a load he likes.

chris
 
If you use 2400, you won't need different primers, so one issue solved, just need some cases and appropriated bullets. W-296/H-110 is best with mag primers. N-110 doesn't need them, but I have never tried it in .357, so I don't know how well or not it works. Probably just fine, it's great in .44 Mag.

I suggest a good 158 Gr bullet suitable for game. For practice/playing a coated 158 Gr bullet in its place.
 
If you use 2400, you won't need different primers, so one issue solved, just need some cases and appropriated bullets. W-296/H-110 is best with mag primers. N-110 doesn't need them, but I have never tried it in .357, so I don't know how well or not it works. Probably just fine, it's great in .44 Mag.

I suggest a good 158 Gr bullet suitable for game. For practice/playing a coated 158 Gr bullet in its place.
Perfect. I’ll start with the H110 and see how that works. Primers are much cheaper than powder especially if it’s already on hand lol.

Back when I was reloading 300blk on the turret press vs the single stage like I do now, I had issues with spillage thru the dropper. Lee equipment. Any advice there?
 
For the 38 I use 3.8gr(I believe) titegroup under 158gr RN. Heavier bullet seems to work better out of his gun, so would probably go that route with 357mag. Since the load data calls for the magnum primers we would just need projectiles and primers if he can track down some spare brass.
Depending on what your pops gun is you probably can use the same primer for .357 as you do for .300.
Luckily I have some H110 I was planning to use and try first IF we decided to go that route. (I have phenomenal bug hole groups at 100 with my 300blk with H110. Check out my thread on it)
A Small Rifle primer under H110 in a .357 is a good combo. Lots of hunters use them instead of small pistol to get better ignition. Small Rifle Magnum might be a problem if pops has a light hammer spring or short-stroke hammer fall on his gun for target shooting but, almost any factory spring is good for standard small rifle and most are good for magnum small rifle.

If all you need is a dozen cases drop me a PM and I’ll send them to you to get you started.
 
Depending on what your pops gun is you probably can use the same primer for .357 as you do for .300.

A Small Rifle primer under H110 in a .357 is a good combo. Lots of hunters use them instead of small pistol to get better ignition. Small Rifle Magnum might be a problem if pops has a light hammer spring or short-stroke hammer fall on his gun for target shooting but, almost any factory spring is good for standard small rifle and most are good for magnum small rifle.
I didn’t even think about that. Good call. I will probably try that to start off and see what it turns out.
 
I'm with the guys who reload for everything I have, rifle and handgun.
You can pick up a used set of 38/357 dies for around $25 and set the extra set up the old man
I personally don't like readjusting dies.
I have two sets of dies set up for each caliber I load. If the break a decapping pin or get a stuck case I just grab the other set and keep going and fix the problem later.
I've never used the shim for switching from 38spl to 357mag or for 44spl to 44mag.
For $25 I'll just pick up another set of used dies.
I have two Hornady Lock n Load single-stage presses set up mext to each other. I'll resize take the case out of the first press and incert in to the 2nd press and flare it.
I'll them incert the primers, when doing more then twenty cases i use the lee bench prime which i have four.
One set up for small pistol
One set up for small rifle
One set up for large pistol
And one set up for large rifle.

Twenty or less cases I have four hand priming tools set up the same as the bench prime.

Once primed I'll get the powder drop set and charge a case, place the charged case in the 1st press and seat the bullet,
I'll take the cartridge out of the 1st press and set it in the 2nd press and crimp it.

It actually goes by pretty fast.
I generally Load 500 rounds of what ever caliber I am loading for.
If you need 357mag brass I can hook you up with as much as you will need. .
For 38spl and 357mag I like the one caliber to be brass and the other caliber to be nickle plated, same for 44spl and 44mag.
It makes to easier to seperate them after wet tumbling.
I find it satisfying when I take a deer with ammo that I personally loaded.
I load hunting ammo for myself, my brother and for a few friends.
Keep in mind when you buy used reloading equipment and you done with it you will recoup your money back minus the shipping when you sell it off.
If you need brass send me a PM.
 
My favorite hunting bullets are the Wide-Flat Nose lead hard cast from Grizzly/Cast Performance. Expansion sounds cool until you’re chasing a wounded Buck looking for a blood trail and there’s nothing. A through-and-through from a wide meplat chunk of flying metal leaves two blood trails and not a very long distance. They bleed out pretty quickly. 👍
 
I'm with the guys who reload for everything I have, rifle and handgun.
You can pick up a used set of 38/357 dies for around $25 and set the extra set up the old man
I personally don't like readjusting dies.
I have two sets of dies set up for each caliber I load. If the break a decapping pin or get a stuck case I just grab the other set and keep going and fix the problem later.
I've never used the shim for switching from 38spl to 357mag or for 44spl to 44mag.
For $25 I'll just pick up another set of used dies.
I have two Hornady Lock n Load single-stage presses set up mext to each other. I'll resize take the case out of the first press and incert in to the 2nd press and flare it.
I'll them incert the primers, when doing more then twenty cases i use the lee bench prime which i have four.
One set up for small pistol
One set up for small rifle
One set up for large pistol
And one set up for large rifle.

Twenty or less cases I have four hand priming tools set up the same as the bench prime.

Once primed I'll get the powder drop set and charge a case, place the charged case in the 1st press and seat the bullet,
I'll take the cartridge out of the 1st press and set it in the 2nd press and crimp it.

It actually goes by pretty fast.
I generally Load 500 rounds of what ever caliber I am loading for.
If you need 357mag brass I can hook you up with as much as you will need. .
For 38spl and 357mag I like the one caliber to be brass and the other caliber to be nickle plated, same for 44spl and 44mag.
It makes to easier to seperate them after wet tumbling.
I find it satisfying when I take a deer with ammo that I personally loaded.
I load hunting ammo for myself, my brother and for a few friends.
Keep in mind when you buy used reloading equipment and you done with it you will recoup your money back minus the shipping when you sell it off.
If you need brass send me a PM.
Same here on the reloading everything I have. Anything with a case is made by my hand. Nothing like popping a deer at 200yds in the neck with your own made bullets. It’s single stage for rifle and turret for pistol/223 for me.
 
Same here on the reloading everything I have. Anything with a case is made by my hand. Nothing like popping a deer at 200yds in the neck with your own made bullets. It’s single stage for rifle and turret for pistol/223 for me.
What’s your pops shooting? I load my .357 hunting loads the same as my best rifle loads, which is the same as my best target loads and my plinking semiautomatic pistol loads. I’m kinda risk averse. 😁
 
What’s your pops shooting? I load my .357 hunting loads the same as my best rifle loads, which is the same as my best target loads and my plinking semiautomatic pistol loads. I’m kinda risk averse. 😁
It’s a Ruger GP100 with 5” barrel and red dot. Pretty good with open sights but that res dot made it practically a tack driver. Wish he put an actual scope on it
 
Solely for hunting, I think it is better to buy Buffalo Bore 357 ammo. Reloading for 357 is only worth it to me for frequent target shooting.
BB is quite spendy, and for the price the bonded 170 federal hammerdown may be a better value. If I can find some, I'll grab a box for testing....
 
BB is quite spendy, and for the price the bonded 170 federal hammerdown may be a better value. If I can find some, I'll grab a box for testing....
No doubt, Tim Sundles is proud of his stuff but you can't argue the quality. I only bought 1 box since it is just for my outdoors carry/hunting. I use the 180gr hardcast and it is great stuff for hunting.
 
My EDC is a 686, and when I first transitioned from 45acp to .357 I bought factory ammo first. I accumulated all the brass until I had about 500 pieces and by then I had bought my dies and powder to reload. I would definitely reload not in as much as to save money because I have never saved money reloading buying all the doo-hickeys I want and not need. You reload because it is custom loaded to your specific firearm and you which will gain you the best reliable and accurate load you can shoot out of that specific firearm. I would buy the factory ammo at least a couple of boxes, use the brass which you can reload what seems forever and enjoy.
 
My EDC is a 686, and when I first transitioned from 45acp to .357 I bought factory ammo first. I accumulated all the brass until I had about 500 pieces and by then I had bought my dies and powder to reload. I would definitely reload not in as much as to save money because I have never saved money reloading buying all the doo-hickeys I want and not need. You reload because it is custom loaded to your specific firearm and you which will gain you the best reliable and accurate load you can shoot out of that specific firearm. I would buy the factory ammo at least a couple of boxes, use the brass which you can reload what seems forever and enjoy.
Forever meets lever gun chambers.... 20230910_174246.jpg
 
It’s a Ruger GP100 with 5” barrel and red dot. Pretty good with open sights but that res dot made it practically a tack driver. Wish he put an actual scope on it
You can use rifle loads no problem with that beast. I seem to recall reading a comparison between the GP100 and the New Model standard Blackhawk and the GP had tighter throats with better regulation (all of the throats within a thousandth of each other). They’re plenty strong, too.

I’d say start with the bullet and work backwards to a proven, published load. Whatever bullets you can get made for 1200fps+ out of a 5” barrel. You really don’t need more than that up to 50yds. I would not take a shot past 50yds with a revolver unless it was a 41 or bigger and moving 1000fps or better at terminal impact.
 
I think if you look REALLY closely, you can see some aging or pressure signs
These are range pickups, so their life before me is completely unknown.... they aren't babied and when a few check out I just keep going. This last load was 20kpsi so it was not crazy pressure
 
John Marlin sausage-reamed chamber?
Maybe, but wouldn’t all his fired cases look like that..?
He did state that they are range pickups so he doesn’t know how many loadings were on them before they became his…
Also looks like that case could be the cannelerred type for bullet setback, in which case the cannellered part does get stressed after many reloads due to the fact it is minutely thinner.
In any case, reloading is still the best option….IMO…
If anyone is that hard up for 38/357 cases, Pm me and I will help out…
 
Maybe, but wouldn’t all his fired cases look like that..?
He did state that they are range pickups so he doesn’t know how many loadings were on them before they became his…
Also looks like that case could be the cannelerred type for bullet setback, in which case the cannellered part does get stressed after many reloads due to the fact it is minutely thinner.
In any case, reloading is still the best option….IMO…
If anyone is that hard up for 38/357 cases, Pm me and I will help out…
I think you're the third or fourth person to offer. I got there first! 😇
 
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