Is Parkerized as Rust Proof as Stainless?
- Thread starter dubious
- Start date
- Status
Funderb
Member
just keep the firearm clean, and oiled. spray with white lithium or something for long term out of uses.
Anything will rust if you let it. Stainless steel is not rust proof either, just better at handling rust than other metals.
If you like parkerized finishes, and that's the most important thing, then go with what you want.
Anything will rust if you let it. Stainless steel is not rust proof either, just better at handling rust than other metals.
If you like parkerized finishes, and that's the most important thing, then go with what you want.
JERRY
Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2003
- Messages
- 3,841
parkerizing is a sacrificial finish....meaning it is meant to rust instead of the base metal. if it is scratched or worn off then the base metal is exposed and subject to oxidation rather quickly.
stainless steel is the base steel with chrome added to it to make it "almost" impervious to rust.
as eluded to above, s.s. will tolorate neglect or infrequent cleanings better than parkerizing will.
stainless steel is the base steel with chrome added to it to make it "almost" impervious to rust.
as eluded to above, s.s. will tolorate neglect or infrequent cleanings better than parkerizing will.
Stainless is better than a phosphated coating. Parkerization is only a surface treatment while the properties of "stainless" is a property of the entire steel gun.
A parkerized coating depends on applying a light layer of oil for corrosion resistance. Without oil, the pebbly surface actually holds moisture and helps bring on corrosion.
A parkerized coating depends on applying a light layer of oil for corrosion resistance. Without oil, the pebbly surface actually holds moisture and helps bring on corrosion.
The Bushmaster
Member
The only "rust proof" gun is one that has been nickel plated. Even stainless steel rusts over time and insufficiant care. I have 60 year old blued firearms that have no rust on them. But yes...Stainless steel requires the least care to prevent rust.
Basically, I believe I have very acidic fingerprints because virtually any prints left on any of my blued guns will rust in a month or so. I clean my guns with rubber gloves now. When I got my stainless Redhawk, it was a revelation. I pick it up about once a week or so and only oil the surface every month or two. No sign of rust at all. That's why, when I invest in a 1911, I think I'm going to go the stainless route. Even though they are a little too flashy that way. I kind of like the springfield black stainless too. From what you guys are saying about parkerizing, I'll pass.
If you don't like the flash of a shiny gun (nor do I), nowadays there are far better treatments than simple parkerizing.
All gun makers offer guns with modern coatings like polymer, teflon, etc. Or you can even apply your own over the park-job. This combination is an extremely good corrosion protectant.
All gun makers offer guns with modern coatings like polymer, teflon, etc. Or you can even apply your own over the park-job. This combination is an extremely good corrosion protectant.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Oh, I don't know.
We fought WWII, Korea, and part of Vietnam with Parkerized 03 Springfield's, M1 Garands's, M1 Carbines, 1911's, M-14's, and Crew-Served weapons of all sizes.
That involved saltwater, rain, dirty handprints, mud, and blood.
They didn't rust apart and lock up useless.
The majority of them still surviving look as good today as they did then, with very little care in the mean time.
Parkerizing and oil will protect a weapon as good as it needs to be protected, if you take care of it like you should be doing anyway.
rcmodel
We fought WWII, Korea, and part of Vietnam with Parkerized 03 Springfield's, M1 Garands's, M1 Carbines, 1911's, M-14's, and Crew-Served weapons of all sizes.
That involved saltwater, rain, dirty handprints, mud, and blood.
They didn't rust apart and lock up useless.
The majority of them still surviving look as good today as they did then, with very little care in the mean time.
Parkerizing and oil will protect a weapon as good as it needs to be protected, if you take care of it like you should be doing anyway.
rcmodel
Since the guns RCmodel talks about were maintained zealously on a semi-daily basis by owners, and most modern examples left have been arsenal re-worked since then more than once, that's not the best example to take.
If you want parkerizing because you like the looks, and you aren't going to carry the gun, then that's fine. It will have the same maintenance requirements as your blue guns.
if you want to carry it, then stainless is the way to go. I would be cautious of the "black stainless" as I have heard that finish is brittle and will scratch up easily. It is a finish on the stainless steel, not a type of steel. Also, in an auto gun that might see heavy use (competition), there is always some concern about the galling between moving SS parts (slide and receiver). You might want to investigate that a bit. In the past, the answer was to not fit SS slide/receivers to the same tolerances as possible on Carbon steel guns - but this was on very tightly fitted match guns and most "duty" quality guns are not going to be fit that highly.
If you want parkerizing because you like the looks, and you aren't going to carry the gun, then that's fine. It will have the same maintenance requirements as your blue guns.
if you want to carry it, then stainless is the way to go. I would be cautious of the "black stainless" as I have heard that finish is brittle and will scratch up easily. It is a finish on the stainless steel, not a type of steel. Also, in an auto gun that might see heavy use (competition), there is always some concern about the galling between moving SS parts (slide and receiver). You might want to investigate that a bit. In the past, the answer was to not fit SS slide/receivers to the same tolerances as possible on Carbon steel guns - but this was on very tightly fitted match guns and most "duty" quality guns are not going to be fit that highly.
Ohhhhhhhh reeeeeaaaaly?
I did not know this at all. Does anybody know if this would be an issue with a NIB Sprinfield Stainless 1911 Loaded? This gun will probably never actually be used as a match gun, but let's say that's more likely than a carry scenario.rcmodel
Member in memoriam
There were problems with SS slides & frames galling years ago when SS guns were first coming out.
That was addressed with better steels, and dissimilar steels being used for frame & slide.
I haven't heard of any SS galling issues for years.
rcmodel
That was addressed with better steels, and dissimilar steels being used for frame & slide.
I haven't heard of any SS galling issues for years.
rcmodel
I would not worry about galling on any stainless weapon made in the last twenty years. Keep it lubed. Re stainless vs Parkerized ,I used to shoot with a guy who's hands could rust a stainless pistol in a couple of hours in Midwestern humid heat. His Parkerized Springfield would not rust in his hands. I love blued guns but I think Parkerizing is a good non reflective practical finish. Worked pretty well for the military.
You do know that if you apply a rust protectant that this will not happen, right? EEZOX, Shooters Choice, Birchwood Casey Sheath, Breakfree CLP, etc, etc, etc. You should oil them after EVERY time you handle them, not on any time scale.
yes, Dubious, I would not hesitate to buy a Springer stainless on this issue. I just thought that sense you were trying to learn about finishes/steels/etc it would be better to get it out now instead of you hearing it later in some forum and going "why did no one say this?"
I hate it if I am doing some research to buy something, make a decision and then later hear "oh, this is a known defect," and I see people come on these boards shocked to hear about weaknesses ina gun they had been psyched to get.
I agree with rcmodel and Drail that it is not an issue on modern production guns. It is something that custom gun builders still do have to deal with when making match-level guns on "in the white" frames.
I hate it if I am doing some research to buy something, make a decision and then later hear "oh, this is a known defect," and I see people come on these boards shocked to hear about weaknesses ina gun they had been psyched to get.
I agree with rcmodel and Drail that it is not an issue on modern production guns. It is something that custom gun builders still do have to deal with when making match-level guns on "in the white" frames.
Harold Mayo
Member
Keep the park lubed up and you have a very rust-resistant finish. Parkerizing is MEANT to hold oil, not be a dry finish in and of itself. Keep oil in it and you'll never have a problem.
Carl N. Brown
Member
I had a parkerized gun that new did rust, until I followed the advice of oiling the parkerizing, let soak, then wipe off. Kinda like curing a wok or iron skillet with oil to make it rustless.
highorder
Member
man, I LOVE the smell of SHEATH. its very pleasant.
skinewmexico
Member
Get the parkerized, and let Carl Birdson coat it with Black-T. Although park works fine if you keep it oiled.
Sir Aardvark
Member
I figure my Stainless Steel guns will still be around for my great grandkids - even if someone forgets to oil them for 10 years!
My friend had his blued shotgun rust overnight just because he left it in his foam gun case on a humid night.
Parkerizing is good, but Stainless is about as foolproof as you can get, although I really, really like hard chrome...
My friend had his blued shotgun rust overnight just because he left it in his foam gun case on a humid night.
Parkerizing is good, but Stainless is about as foolproof as you can get, although I really, really like hard chrome...
Sheldon
Member
I believe parkerizing it only slightly better than blueing. Check out the Robar site and you will learn about their different coating treatments. They rate the coatings based on the number of hours it takes for corrosion to show while the treated steel is in a salt spray environment. Blued steel was the worst and parkerizing was just a step better. Nickled, chromed, and stainless steel all did much better, but their NP3 process is really resistant to rust.
Funderb
Member
even nickle plating rusts underneath. It's only weeks before the chrome and nickle starts to bubble up at the beach.
JesseL
Member
One of my favorite finishes (and one that can be done at home without too much investment) is parkerizing followed by one of the shake-and-bake finishes.
The parkerizing provides a nice hard and porous surface for the baked on finish to adhere to. It ends up being hard, durable, very corrosion resistant, and somewhat self lubricating.
The parkerizing provides a nice hard and porous surface for the baked on finish to adhere to. It ends up being hard, durable, very corrosion resistant, and somewhat self lubricating.
While Stainless is more resistant overall ..the porous surface of Parkerized absorbs and holds things very well..including oils Or a quality rust protection(like Eezox) which drys on and doesn't have to be applied nearly as frequently as say on a blued gun and therefore is much lower maintenance than a Blued gun.
My 'parked' pistol wiped with a few drops of Eezox rust protection every week or so, is quite low in maintenance and has not a spec of rust or corrosion..despite the harsh carry environment here in sunny S.Florida ie:Heat,humidity,sweat,salt-air etc..
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
My 'parked' pistol wiped with a few drops of Eezox rust protection every week or so, is quite low in maintenance and has not a spec of rust or corrosion..despite the harsh carry environment here in sunny S.Florida ie:Heat,humidity,sweat,salt-air etc..
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
Simple oxidation is greatly slowed in all grades of stainless.
The problem is that moisture and skin oils are not the only thing left when you handle a gun.
Salt (NaCl) is left behind, and it can aggressively attack stainless steel of just about every type.
Chlorine is not friendly to much of anything.
- Status
