Stainz
Member
Gee, J.M., try de-caf...
Factoring in the poor QC I have experienced with my new Rugers - and how one, a .45 Redhawk, did have to 'go home' immediately due to too many issues - the worst involving safety - I'd give the nod to S&W in a scenario where the revolver must work properly 'out of the box'.
I still buy Rugers - but I know how to remove the burrs, roughness, etc - required to permit proper operation. I still 'like' Rugers. If I ever find a new half lug SS 4"-5" GP100 at an affordable price, it will probably come home with me - the first stop being, of course, the workbench.
Now, about field stripping... these aint M16/M4's. Make certain the chambers are empty. You need a proper screwdriver to get the grip panels off your SRH/GP100/SP101 - don't lose the little pin trapped under them - in the rubber grip. Push the Al plug through and pull the grip down off the frame stud. Cock the hammer, insert the pin you probably lost (... or a large wire paper clip) into the hammer coil spring's strut and release the hammer, trapping said spring... remove said spring/strut. Pull the hammer's axle out - then the hammer, etc. See the hole on the back of the grip stud? I have an old Phillips, #1 or #2, I have forgotten, screwdriver ~4" long that I ground to a flat - it must fit in that hole easily - and depress, with some effort, that 'latch' from the trigger group across from it to release said trigger group. You still won't have the cylinder 'in your hand' - but you get the drift. Easily field stripped?
For a K/L/N frame S&W, simply remove the forward most sideplate screw - with the proper sized hollow-ground bit. Release the cylinder and carefully pull forward on the yoke assembly, removing it and the now freed cylinder. Clean. Re-assemble. I generally take the grip/stock off for cleaning, too - another screw. Proper sized hollow-ground sets are available reasonably priced.
About strengths... recall that it takes more metal to have the same compressive & tensile strength when it is cast than when it is hammer forged and heat treated. Also, recall that the same basic design is implemented for SAAMI-spec'd .22LR to .44 Magnum - it must be durable. As to timing, pawl/hand or bolt wear is common in older high mileage revolvers - no matter the brand - but are easily replaced in a S&W.
Finally, the IL. First - it is entirely ancillary - not at all part of the functioning 'Chain'. It merely blocks the hammer's movement. Sure, the spring detent keeping it off could fail - if the spring rusted through... but you'd have other internal rust problems by then as well. You could drop it onto concrete several times and maybe make it jump out of battery - but believe me, I wouldn't shoot a dropped gun without checking it out thoroughly first - thus, no mil-surplus French firearms here, but that's my opinion. I wouldn't let a .192" hole in the frame - over the cylinder release - dissuade me from an S&W. Of course, as a kid, I thought Edsels and Studebakers were neat!
Stainz
Factoring in the poor QC I have experienced with my new Rugers - and how one, a .45 Redhawk, did have to 'go home' immediately due to too many issues - the worst involving safety - I'd give the nod to S&W in a scenario where the revolver must work properly 'out of the box'.
I still buy Rugers - but I know how to remove the burrs, roughness, etc - required to permit proper operation. I still 'like' Rugers. If I ever find a new half lug SS 4"-5" GP100 at an affordable price, it will probably come home with me - the first stop being, of course, the workbench.
Now, about field stripping... these aint M16/M4's. Make certain the chambers are empty. You need a proper screwdriver to get the grip panels off your SRH/GP100/SP101 - don't lose the little pin trapped under them - in the rubber grip. Push the Al plug through and pull the grip down off the frame stud. Cock the hammer, insert the pin you probably lost (... or a large wire paper clip) into the hammer coil spring's strut and release the hammer, trapping said spring... remove said spring/strut. Pull the hammer's axle out - then the hammer, etc. See the hole on the back of the grip stud? I have an old Phillips, #1 or #2, I have forgotten, screwdriver ~4" long that I ground to a flat - it must fit in that hole easily - and depress, with some effort, that 'latch' from the trigger group across from it to release said trigger group. You still won't have the cylinder 'in your hand' - but you get the drift. Easily field stripped?
For a K/L/N frame S&W, simply remove the forward most sideplate screw - with the proper sized hollow-ground bit. Release the cylinder and carefully pull forward on the yoke assembly, removing it and the now freed cylinder. Clean. Re-assemble. I generally take the grip/stock off for cleaning, too - another screw. Proper sized hollow-ground sets are available reasonably priced.
About strengths... recall that it takes more metal to have the same compressive & tensile strength when it is cast than when it is hammer forged and heat treated. Also, recall that the same basic design is implemented for SAAMI-spec'd .22LR to .44 Magnum - it must be durable. As to timing, pawl/hand or bolt wear is common in older high mileage revolvers - no matter the brand - but are easily replaced in a S&W.
Finally, the IL. First - it is entirely ancillary - not at all part of the functioning 'Chain'. It merely blocks the hammer's movement. Sure, the spring detent keeping it off could fail - if the spring rusted through... but you'd have other internal rust problems by then as well. You could drop it onto concrete several times and maybe make it jump out of battery - but believe me, I wouldn't shoot a dropped gun without checking it out thoroughly first - thus, no mil-surplus French firearms here, but that's my opinion. I wouldn't let a .192" hole in the frame - over the cylinder release - dissuade me from an S&W. Of course, as a kid, I thought Edsels and Studebakers were neat!
Stainz
