It took me about 5 years, but I did it

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@jmorris is going to make me up my game. I NEED that self resetting plate rack lol. That looks like a blast. I watched your other video on how it works, but I think that's probably over my head.☹

I may have to put some wheels on my tree though. I think I can figure that mod out. Thanks for the ideas.
 
One small suggestion. In post #6 you can see the base of the tree welded to the frame... with no support. Vibrations can crack welds on a part that is not fully supported. A brace or two on the base of that tree would probably prevent grief down the road during a shooting session.
 
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Well we gave it a workout today. 400 rounds roughly. All in all, it worked great. Need to get the ground leveled where it sits, and maybe get it tilted down more in the front. I don't plan on changing any dimensions as far as the angle goes though. Plates swing hard, and even swing good with 9mm 115gr. If I get back out tomorrow, I'll grab some video.

It was pretty entertaining when we switched to high capacity 40's and 9mm's and got to actually start dueling. Plates swinging, brass flying, clouds of powder smoke floating thru the air lol. Man that was fun.

Sweet!

a cool thing you can do is order a second set of paddles for rimfire and swap them with the heavier centerfire plates for a dual-purpose tree. (I’m going to have a lighter tree made for my rimfire paddles sooner or later.)

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Shooting-Targets-Rimfire-Dueling/dp/B076KS4P27

Stay safe.
I am currently looking at plates for rimfires now lol. I'm hoping to use the same tree, and just swap the paddles out.
 
Those are great looking welds for a first project. I'd pay $350 for that thing thats better than a lot of budget off the shelf models for sure!!
 
Some heavy duty leveling screws would be nice. It would take the annoyance out of having to shim.

Make your own using 1/2" bolts. Drill some holes at each corner on the bottom and weld a half inch nut over the hole. Reinforce the base of you need to.

Make four base plates about 3" square or so out of half inch aluminum. It's light weight, and you can attach lanyards to them to keep them with your stand. Either drill some holes about 5/8" diameter and 1/4" deep in the center for the bolts to sit on, or maybe just drill them through with 1/2" holes and mount them on the end of the bolts with nuts and lockwashers.

Wheel your stand out, use a wrench to level it, and you're ready!
 
Every steel has its particular welding requirements based on factors like alloy composition, thicknesses, what you're welding out to, heat treatment, etc.

I'm not a welding engineer (a point of contention with me at work, where they apparently think it IS, in fact, part of my job description), but I do know that much, at least.
 
One word:

"Fenders".

I took some photos of Jerry Miculek’s bullet trap but didn’t ask him about the bullet hole through the fender.

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Hard to get fenders all the way to the ground and still make the wheel a useful idea but at least make them bullet resistant if you expect them to save tires.
 
None. Was I supposed too? New to fabrication and welding.

Yes, up to 3/4' thickness needs 200 degrees and the thicker it becomes the higher the temperature needed. No preheat and there is a very good chance that the plate is going to fail in the HAZ. Even with mild steel you will encounter problems with a small flux core machine but that is from poor penetration, not brittleness. In either case the structure fails, sometimes with no warning at all. There is a lot of information available on the web from reputable sources like Lincoln and Miller. There is also a lot of pure BS from self styled experts too. If you have a good interest in welding Lincoln has a book entitled "The Handbook Of Arc Welding" available at a very reasonable price that deals with about everything you will encounter in the field.
 
Yes, up to 3/4' thickness needs 200 degrees and the thicker it becomes the higher the temperature needed. No preheat and there is a very good chance that the plate is going to fail in the HAZ. Even with mild steel you will encounter problems with a small flux core machine but that is from poor penetration, not brittleness. In either case the structure fails, sometimes with no warning at all. There is a lot of information available on the web from reputable sources like Lincoln and Miller. There is also a lot of pure BS from self styled experts too. If you have a good interest in welding Lincoln has a book entitled "The Handbook Of Arc Welding" available at a very reasonable price that deals with about everything you will encounter in the field.

When you say no preheat, the plate may fail? Means my weld on the plates may fail? I will look that book up. I don't plan on making a living welding, but I do love knowledge.
 
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