Japanese Akisara in 6.5x55 Swedish

[vwfool]

Japanese Arisaka in 6.5x55 Swedish

I've got an old Jap type 38 in 6.5 and I've been thinking about having it rechambered to the 6.5x55 Swedish round. I know that this conversion used to be real popular; so, if any of you have has done this I'd like your opinions about the rifle and the round. Also,did you have to alter the magazine any?

Just in case you were wondering the mum is still perfect, never been touched, but my dad cut the stock down and cut the barrel down about 6 or 8 inches back in the 60's.

Thanks!

 

[RooK]

It's Arisaka btw.

The cartridges are very close in size. The 6.5x55 appears to be 0.03 larger in diameter and has an OAL just .18" longer. If it fits the magazine length (don't have mine handy to measure), it should be a fine conversion. Just be sure to have the barrel set back before cutting. Most Arisakas have excessive headspace compared to specs, mine is one. Beats having to pay out the rear for Norma ammo, even if it's just for the cases to reload.

Too bad about your dad cutting it down, especially with an intact mum on it. Might have made a nice collector peice.

 

[Jim Watson]

The usual conversion in those days was to 6.5 x .257 Roberts. A wildcat but no trouble to make, and no real difference from Euro 6.5x57 Mauser. But now you can get 6.5 Swede, might do well.

Why set the barrel back to rechamber? Is there some dimension that the Nip is larger and needs setback to clean up?

 

[WhoKnowsWho]

Beats having to pay out the rear for Norma ammo, even if it's just for the cases to reload.

Grafs.com just got some of the Hornady brass in and probably some of the loaded ammo. My brass order arrived yesterday. 100 pieces of 6.5 Jap for $27.99 and 100 pieces of 7.7 Jap for 27.99 also... now I just need to order the dies and such, woo hoo! Then I can finally shoot my two Arisakas!

 

[RooK]

Why set the barrel back to rechamber? Is there some dimension that the Nip is larger and needs setback to clean up?

You only need to set back probably an inch or so. The 6.5 Swede and 6.5 Jap both have almost identical deminsions to the rear of the shoulder, couple this with most having excessive headspace and you have an out of spec chamber even after using a new reamer. If your chamber is up to specs, you can probably use a 6.5 Swede chamber reamer no problem without setting it back.

WhoKnowsWho, thanks for the tip on the Arisaka brass. Unfortunately, mine isn't in the best shape in the world and would need at the least a new barrel (this one is pitted) to be a useful shooter. Since it's a bring back from WWII by my grandfather, I don't know if I'd want to go through with it. If I did, I would want it restored to original Japanese military specs.

 

[WhoKnowsWho]

If I did, I would want it restored to original Japanese military specs.

Good luck, let me know if you find some source of non-modified stocks.

The local shop has a poorly sportarized Type 99, full mum and anti aircraft sights, metal looks like new on the receiver. But man, did they chop that stock up. I have been considering picking it up and trying to restore it...

 

[RooK]

I doubt I'll be looking for any. Mine has a complete stock and handguard, sans the front cap with the bayonet mount. I even have a bayonet with sheath and frog as well as the cleaning rod.

You might want to try Numrich, they might get some complete stocks from time to time.

 

[WhoKnowsWho]

You might want to try Numrich, they might get some complete stocks from time to time.

Yeah, they don't have any currently, a few show up on ebay too for about the same going rate as numrich, but usually sans all the metal parts.

 

[vwfool]

I am kinda suprised so many people responded. Thanks a lot. The cost of ammo or brass for the Jap 6.5 is part of the reason why I wanted to rechamber it.

The 6.5 Swedish round is easier to find around here and you can get it in broader variety of loadings (bullet weights and types). The gunsmith that I use has also done the conversion to the 6.5x55 Swedish before.

Anyone have a good source on original parts, in particular the front sight that my dad cut off of it. I was just wondering about the sight; I will probably put a scout scope mount and a Leupold IER scope on it since the barrel is not in its original state. What or where is Numrich?

Some pictures of yours would be pretty cool if any of you get a chance to post them.

 

[Clemson]

Numrich = www.e-gunparts.com

Too bad about the cutdown, but you may be able to scrounge enough parts (including a barrel) to make the gun complete again. In today's market, your dad succeeded in turning about a $600 gun into a $75 gun.

Clemson

 

[Jim K]

Hi, Rook, vwfool, and guys,

Rook, are you sure we are talking about the same cartridges? The 6.5x55 is larger in every dimension than the 6.5x50mm Arisaka. There should be no need to set the barrel back. Even the bolt face works OK, since the rim diameters of the cartridges are just about the same. The chamber should clean up nicely, and a quick test seems to indicate the Swedish cartridge will fit the magazine and feed OK as well.

The trouble is that the Arisaka has the same problems it has always had. The action is not as smooth as the typical Mauser and the split bridge effectively precludes normal scope mounting. Not to mention that rechambering would leave the rifle neither fish nor fowl - not an Arisaka, but also not a good sporter rifle.

ONE OTHER PROBLEM! If anyone decided to fire the original cartridge in the converted rifle, the result would be a burst case, a lot of gas flying around, and considerable danger to the shooter. This is the sort of thing that makes John Edwards and his friends go all ga-ga over, thinking of the lawsuits. If the conversion is done, make sure the rifle is well marked with the new caliber!

I recommend leaving the old Japanese rifle alone, and obtaining enough cases to reload. If you like the 6.5x55 (and I do), buy a Swedish Mauser to shoot it in.

Jim

 

[Cosmoline]

I've seen a lot of hacked up Arisakas where this conversion might be an improvement. The rifle isn't a Mauser, that's true. But in many ways it's better than a Swede. For one thing Arisakas, esp. with cut stocks, are extremely light weight. Under seven lbs. for sure. And they can be quite handy in the field. The actions are very strong. And the 6.5 Swede is certainly a nice cartridge to have for hunting. I'm usually against these conversions, but in this case it makes some sense. Realisitically nobody is going to be mass-producing 6.5 Jap. for affordable prices, and the cartridge itself does not allow you to use the rifle to its full advantage.

 

[Badger Arms]

A few words on setting the barrel back. First, you only need to go one turn, not an inch. Going an inch is great if you want to repair a severely worn throat or the such, but that is the only advantage. The main thing it allows is a good cleaning-up of the chamber and throat area despite any irregularities such as chatter marks, poor tolerances, pitting, and all-around roughness. It takes more time and work, certainly, but it's worth it if you're gonna rechamber anyhow.

 

[vwfool]

Thanks for the link, Clemson.

Jim Keenan, thanks a lot for the info. I am looking forward to getting the work done, and I was planning on marking the barrel VERY VERY clearly when the change is made.

This isn't my dream rifle, but I am looking forward to using the old rifle. I grew up looking and handling it; however, niether I nor my dad have ever fired it. Like someone else mentioned, it should make me a nice, lightweight rifle in a caliber good enough for anything I want to point and squeze it at in Oklahoma. I guess I am kinda weird because I don't mind the split in the top of the action or the strait bolt handle. With a scout scope mount I can still view the entact mum and I can operate the action pretty easily by reaching over the action (I'm a lefty) without taking it down from my shoulder.

Hey Jim, your not related to a Travis Keenan in Oklahoma are you?

Thanks eveyone.