just got all my 30-30 reloading gear in the mail. advice sought on a pwder

[Dudemeister]

I'm using Lee 30-30 dies and I have no problem with shaving lead bullets. I'm not using a special expander.

I too have recently started loading for the 30-30, and found that unlike jacketed bullets which are .308 in diameter, most cast bullets are .309 or .310.

The Lee dies will resize the neck properly for a .308, but a slightly larger bullet will end up being shaved.

I ended up getting Lee's Universal Expanding Die, and this added an additional step to the process, but it's really fast. Since I don't try to break the speed record for reloading, the extra step doesn't bother me at all, and it makes a big difference because 1: it makes it very easy to insert the bullet in the mouth of the case, and 2: the bullet doesn't get shaved.

You can also check my thread on this subject. I ended up using Trail Boss powder in my loads.

 

[4895]

I use 20.0 grains of H-4895 with a 165 grain lead bullet and it shoots fine at 80 - 100 yards but drops like a bat much beyond that. The loads are listed, as someone mentioned, at Hodgdon's website. Perfect for plinking milk jugs and such. I also use a Lyman "M" die to flare the case mouths but some people use needle nose pliers. Insert the pliers into the case and turn the case mouth on the natural taper of the pliers. Not my preferred method, but if I lived in a cave I guess it would work.
Also, the H4895 will work with jacketed bullets if you ever upgraded for game loads and would save you from buying more than one rifle powder.
Never loaded for .40 S&W but if I did I would probably start with either AutoComp or HS-6. I wouldn't worry about finding one powder to do it all. There is no such animal that I know of.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

The neck tension must be loose for you, AA.

I thought the same thing when I was able to load those lead bullets but no, the neck tension is not loose. I'm not complaining since I didn't need to buy another die.

 

[bhhacker]

quick question... is there an easy way to measure out 7 grains of unique using scoops? Ive seen the lee loader scoops that has like 10-12 little scoop kit for reloading. Would any of them be anywhere close? not looking for a shortcut to using a scale...It is a pain in the butt to measure each darn load separately!

 

[ArchAngelCD]

quick question... is there an easy way to measure out 7 grains of unique using scoops? Ive seen the lee loader scoops that has like 10-12 little scoop kit for reloading. Would any of them be anywhere close? not looking for a shortcut to using a scale...It is a pain in the butt to measure each darn load separately!

The only real way to know is to weigh the powder in a few of the dippers and see if one comes close or right on. You can make one with a spent brass case. Weigh the powder and adjust the dipper as needed until you get it exactly on 7gr.

 

[Dudemeister]

quick question... is there an easy way to measure out 7 grains of unique using scoops?

Yeah, get a pound of Unique, then divide it into 1000 equal parts. Each one of those will weight 7 grains.

But seriously, 1gr. of Unique has a Volumetric density (what Lee calls VMD) of 0.1092, measured in cubic centimeters (CC). So, 7gr. * .1092 = 0.7644cc

Lee's dipper kit includes 0.3cc, 0.5, 0.7, 1, 1.3, 1.6, 1.9, 2.2, 2.5, 2.8, 3.1, 3.4, 3.7, 4, 4.3cc dippers. So the closest you could get to what you want, would be using the 0.7cc dipper. That one will actually give you 6.4gr. The next one up (1cc), will give you 9.2gr.

Here is a link to Lee's Dipper Capacity data sheet.

 

[popper]

use a fired 40SW case with fired primer. Fill with powder and then dump in scale to weigh. If more than needed, melt some wax from a candle into the case, repeat (yea, wait for the wax to get COLD). It won't take much with unique. Fill and scrape off the top to get correct measure. Unique can take a little error, not like some other powders. Strip some solid wire and wind around the extracter groove for a handle.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

or you can skip the wax and just trim/file/grind/etc. the mouth of the case down until it's the right size.

 

[Sam1911]

Fill with powder and then dump in scale to weigh.

Great idea! Of course, if he owned a SCALE, he'd not have asked the question...

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

d'oh!

 

[Dudemeister]

use a fired 40SW case with fired primer. Fill with powder and then dump in scale to weigh. If more than needed, melt some wax from a candle into the case, repeat (yea, wait for the wax to get COLD). It won't take much with unique. Fill and scrape off the top to get correct measure. Unique can take a little error, not like some other powders. Strip some solid wire and wind around the extracter groove for a handle.

This is actually a very nifty idea. I don't have any .40sw cases, but I tried this with a 9mm case.

Filling the case to the top loosely (not packing the powder in, but simply pouring the powder in it with a dipper), with Unique, I get slight variations, but it's almost always either 7.4gr. or 7.5gr.

To get 7 grains, I have to fill it to about 2mm below the rim. I don't have a .380 Auto, but I wonder if that would be closer to 7gr. If someone here has one, some Unique and a scale, perhaps they could give it a whirl.

 

[popper]

I got tired of grinding the cases for different loads. Any cal case will work. I did use a pipe cutter to remove the neck on bottle neck rifle cases. DO MARK the case with powder and weight! A scribe is best - it won't wear off. Make a wire handle and just dip the case, level the top of the powder. coat hanger will work for wire, I just super glue it in place. Then I got a powder measure. The wax makes it easy to adjust a load, add more or drill some out.

 

[Dudemeister]

I got tired of grinding the cases for different loads. Any cal case will work. I did use a pipe cutter to remove the neck on bottle neck rifle cases. DO MARK the case with powder and weight! A scribe is best - it won't wear off. Make a wire handle and just dip the case, level the top of the powder. coat hanger will work for wire, I just super glue it in place. Then I got a powder measure. The wax makes it easy to adjust a load, add more or drill some out.

All this works great IF YOU HAVE A SCALE.

The OP's problem is he doesn't have a scale. So we've been trying to give him ideas on how he can achieve his desired load (7gr. of Unique) using other measuring means (like dippers, or shells).

 

[bhhacker]

I promise i havent started reloading without a scale guys!


I still plan on getting one soon and not doing ANY reloading until getting one. I was just asking on advice of what you all use to be able to rapidly fill shells instead of measuring out stuff individually.

Obviously a powder trickler would be best, but aside from that is what i mean.


The .40 cal shell will be a good idea once i have a scale. Thanks for that info

 

[Sam1911]

I promise i havent started reloading without a scale guys!

Just to reiterate, you CAN, and that's what the dipper method was designed for. But you have to follow the recipes given EXACTLY, and accept that you don't get quite as much control over the load.

Part of Lee's appeal at the bottom end of the cost and complexity spectrum is that they will sell you equipment for very little money that will make good ammo for you, one at a time, ultra-simply -- even while sitting at the range bench or your kitchen table, if that's what you want.

I still plan on getting one soon and not doing ANY reloading until getting one. I was just asking on advice of what you all use to be able to rapidly fill shells instead of measuring out stuff individually.

Well, that's certainly one place the Lee dippers shine, and you can buy the whole set for under $10, so that might make even more sense than taking the time to make your own dippers out of fired cases.

Obviously a powder trickler would be best, but aside from that is what i mean.

Well, what you really want is a powder thrower like the Lee Perfect Powder measure or the RCBS Uniflow.

A powder trickler is a fine-tuning device that lets you drop tiny grains of powder into a scale pan to make every charge super precise. There's nothing at all fast about them, and they aren't necessary for "most" loading, especially if you're just plinking.

 

[bhhacker]

Thanks for the info Sam, perhaps im not usiing the right word.


A powder trickler is what comes in the anniversary kits right? or would that be called a powder thrower?

 

[Sam1911]

No that's a "thrower" or powder measure. (Lee's "Perfect Powder Measure." It isn't exactly perfect, but I've used one for 20 years.)

A trickler is this:



http://www.midwayusa.com/product/566971/hornady-powder-trickler

When you're making a very precise round, you have your scale set to the weight you want, you "THROW" a charge with the measure. It should be a hair light. Then you have a few grains of powder in the hopper of the trickler and you turn the end of the tube to drop a few powder granules at a time into the scale's pan until your charge weight is dead-on perfect.

 

[j1]

Ditto IMR 3031.

 

[bhhacker]

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/90928-deluxe-turret-press-hole-wauto-index-reload-p-54871.html



this is the kit I plan on getting. I have not heard of those disks and plan on getting a pwder thrower to go along with it. Am i missing anything else in that kit that might be glaringly obvious for an experienced reloader like you Sam?

 

[Sam1911]

You need a set of dial calipers obviously. You'll need to figure out what you want to do for lubing the cases. (Lube pad? Baggie with spray-lube?)

A loading tray might be a really nice idea. (Those wood blocks with 50 holes to hold a batch of cases upright.) Especially as you're getting set up. Won't need them so much with a turret as with a single-stage, but nice to have.

 

[Dudemeister]

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/90928-deluxe-turret-press-hole-wauto-index-reload-p-54871.html
I have not heard of those disks and plan on getting a pwder thrower to go along with it.

Don't be so rash. The Autodisk Powder measure works quite well. It comes with a instruction sheet which will tell which disk to use based on the type and amount of powder you will choose.

Depending on the powder you will use (and it appears you want to use Unique), it may throw a slightly lighter charge than listed, but it's pretty consistent. Just be aware that some powders meter better than others depending on their density. Unique powder meters pretty well.

The kit also includes a magnetically suspended scale which I found to be very accurate. You should throw a few charges and weigh each one individually to check for accuracy and deviation, then throw 10 charges into a pan, weigh it and divide by 10, it should average to what you are looking for.

In a pistol reloading setup, the advantage of the Autodisk Powder Measure is that it removes one step from the reloading process. It drops the charge through the expanding die, as you bell the mouth of the cartridge. Very convenient.

If you plan on reloading for a rifle, first of all, the Lee Deluxe turret only works with .223, it's not tall enough to accommodated larger cartridges. Also the Lee Perfect Powder Measure is much more suited for this job than the Autodisk.

FWIW, this is the same kit I started with. I since added a few more tools, like a digital scale, calipers, specialty dies, a couple of powder throwers, but by in large it's almost unchanged. For rifle I actually use a Lee Handpress because it can accommodate the larger cartridges, and I don't load nearly as much as I do for pistol.

Edit:
One thing you might want to consider, is using the press in single stage mode. This turret press has an auto indexing feature which is designed to produce one shell with 3 or 4 consecutive pulls of the handle, but until you feel comfortable and trust your equipment and yourself to produce consistent results which each pull, I would remove the indexing rod, and basically do all your shells one stage at a time, then manually rotate the turret for the next stage. It slows the process down, but it lets you inspect the results on each and shell at each individual stage.


Good Luck.

 

[popper]

I have a trickler #43 that gathers dust. I can fill a case with powder, tap it faster, more accurately and better, save the $.

 

[Eb1]

I on the other hand cannot. I use a Lee Dipper or a powder thrower to get me withing .5 grains or so, and then trickle to the desired amount. I am faster than a RCBS Charge Master, but I'd still like to own one.

I find the trickler handy for precise loading.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I'm a big fan of the Lee Pro Auto-Disk and I find it to be very accurate with most powders. I also bought all the toys that are made for it like the Auto-Disk Riser, the Double Disk Kit, the Micro-Disk Kit and the Adjustable Charge Bar.

 

[FROGO207]

I make home made powder scoops with wire handles out of brass casings of various sizes. Mostly from 500S&W down to .22 long. Instead of wax I use 5 minute Epoxy because the powder will not stick to it or crumble like wax will. I will weigh a charge out (have to have a scale first) and dump it in a casing of near the correct size for the amount of powder in the pan. Then observe how much extra space is on top. Dump the powder out and mix the necessary Epoxy plus a little extra and dump it in the casing. After it is hardened try scooping a test sample or two and weighing them. It is usually too light so just take a drill bit that is just smaller than the casing and turning it by hand remove some Epoxy and dump the shavings out then reweigh the charge scooped. Repeat as necessary till you get the weight you want. For an average I will weigh out 10 at a time and divide the results by 10. This method of making a scoop to use works well with a digital scale for accuracy, then speed using the scoop without needing to weigh each charge. Note the accuracy of each charge is dependent on your METHOD of scooping and the need to repeat it EXACTLY THE SAME each time plus the measure will not change calibration over time. Yes match grade ammo can be made with a scoop but you have to be extremely precise with your method when scooping.