Just got my 1851 Dixie Colt Navy

[TheWall]

Last week I got an 1851 Dixie Colt Navy from Dixie Gun Works. It's made by Pietta and is a steel frame. DGW has it on sale for $185.

This is my first pistol (I have two blackpowder rifles) and I really like the fit and way it feels in my hand. The cylinder spins nicely at half cock.

I hope to take this baby out to the range later this month.

Here are some photos...

 

[happybrew]

Nice! I think you'll enjoy shooting it. Mine is very accurate with a thirty grain load and a .454 round ball.

 

[TheWall]

This is a .36 caliber

Thanks. This is a .36 caliber. I have .376 round balls from Dixie Gun Works and ox yoke wads.

I'll report back once I get out to the range.

 

[Doc Rizzi]

Nice. I think that the 1851 is my favorite of my blackpowder revolver collection. I have the best luck with #ten caps....but they will sometimes fall into the gap in front of the hammer and....well..you know. On one of mine I have beveled the nipple cones by putting them in a drill press and holding a small file at about a 30 degree angle and put a slight bevel on the very end. I have found that this encourages the spent cap to explode its way clear of the cylinder. I use these for cowboy action shooting and it is no fun then the caps jam up the works. Just be careful not to go more than 30 degrees or you will have a hard time seating the cap snug. 15 grains of FFFBP or American Pioneer under a lubed felt wad is what I set up for in CAS. Have fun. I really like the gun.

 

[StrawHat]

Good looking revolver and a good choice for a first one. There will be more.

The 1851 grip frame, and the 1861, would eventually become the grip frame for Colts Model P.

I have a couple of 61s and they are good shooters.

Yours shouldn't be any different.

Remember, no matter what the amount of powder in the cylinder, no air space between powder and ball.

Enjoy it, for years.

 

[Pancho]

There is another post currently running about a guy saying that he had a hell of a time getting his Navy to shoot. By his admission he was new to BP guns. He said that the first cylinder cycle the caps didn't go off. the second cycle the caps went off but the chambers didn't. It was our concerted opinion that before taking a new gun to the range take the time to remove the cyclinder remove the nipples and with a good degreaser solvent you must assure there is no shipping grease in the nipples or the cylinders. Before you replace the nipples put a dap of anti-sieze on the nipple threads before you screw them back in.
If you use #10 caps they can be hard to seat with your finger if you take a 4" piece of hardwood dowel rod you can use that more effectively to seat the caps.

 

[scrat]

Very nice gun and set up. For sure the loading block will come in handy.

 

[TheWall]

There is another post currently running about a guy saying that he had a hell of a time getting his Navy to shoot. By his admission he was new to BP guns. He said that the first cylinder cycle the caps didn't go off. the second cycle the caps went off but the chambers didn't. It was our concerted opinion that before taking a new gun to the range take the time to remove the cyclinder remove the nipples and with a good degreaser solvent you must assure there is no shipping grease in the nipples or the cylinders. Before you replace the nipples put a dap of anti-sieze on the nipple threads before you screw them back in.
If you use #10 caps they can be hard to seat with your finger if you take a 4" piece of hardwood dowel rod you can use that more effectively to seat the caps.

I intend on shooting the gun tomorrow, so just to be on the safe side, I removed the cylinder again (I did it last week just to make sure I could get the wedge out) and removed and cleaned out all the nipples with Ballistol. I used pipe cleaners to clean and dry the nipples. Cylinders and bore were also cleaned out with Ballistol patches and dry patches. Reassembled and ready to go! By the way, getting the wedge out was relatively easy using a rubber mallet.

Before shooting tomorrow I will pop off caps in each cylinder, then load her up!

I will try to report back after tomorrow's range session.

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[Im283]

I am no expert but I would not use a rubber mallet for knocking the barrel wedge out.

I am thinking it would put stress on the cylinder base pin.

Something with a harder surface would be better. Mallets, plastic, brass, wood. Something that will engage the pin without engaging the barrel. I use the handle of a screw driver to strike the wedge with the blade between my thumb and indexfinger.

Just my two cents

 

[TheWall]

I am no expert but I would not use a rubber mallet for knocking the barrel wedge out.

I am thinking it would put stress on the cylinder base pin.

Something with a harder surface would be better. Mallets, plastic, brass, wood. Something that will engage the pin without engaging the barrel. I use the handle of a screw driver to strike the wedge with the blade between my thumb and indexfinger.

Just my two cents

Thanks for the tip. Next time I'll use my screw driver handle.

 

[StrawHat]

Having looked at a few originals, they used a lot of hard stuff.

On most revolvers that show more than casual use the area around the wedge is dimpled from being hit.

Personally, I use a piece of brass round stock about 1" in diameter and about 4" long.

I have been known to use the second revolver to smack the wedge of the first.